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Post by royldoc on Jan 3, 2012 13:23:56 GMT -6
Check to see if the seat bucket goes into the groove around the bottom of the seat all the way around. You may have to loosen the seat mounting bolts and move the seat around a little to get the bucket to go into the groove.
Roy
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Post by royldoc on Jan 3, 2012 12:29:41 GMT -6
If you can push the latch into the latched position with a screwdriver and it still does not catch the little catch pawl may be wore out. It is hard to tell from the photo but it looks like little metal shavings on the latch. You may be able to take it out and bend the catch a little bit. I had to bend mine because the cable was to tight to let it catch. I bent the end of the lock a little bit to slacken the cable. If you have to do this check it several times to make sure the key will still open the latch before you close the seat.
Roy
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Post by royldoc on Dec 29, 2011 12:42:45 GMT -6
The canister that was on mine has three hoses on it. One comes from the check valve. One comes from the intake manifold. One goes to the air filter box. I removed the hose from the intake manifold and plugged the nipple. Then I removed the tube to the air box and plugged that nipple. I removed the hose from the check valve and left it open. This one needs to be open because it is the fuel tank vent.
Roy
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Post by royldoc on Dec 29, 2011 1:09:27 GMT -6
My stock carburetor is a 19mm inlet with a #28 pilot jet and a #80 main jet. I ended up using a #32 pilot jet and a #85 main. I did have to drill out the plug for the fuel ratio mixture screw. I also had good luck with a 20mm carb. with those same jets. I tried a 24mm carb but it was really finicky. But what worked for mine may or may not work for you. there is a lot of variables in tuning a carb. such at altitude and temperature. I now have a E.F.I system and love it. They are a little pricy though. I also removed all the emission stuff. The charcoal/vapor canister had a vacuum leak. Before changing out the carb. You should do the basic stuff. Check all the hoses for cracks,deterioration and leaks. Check for vacuum leaks. Check to make sure the fuel flows good from tank to the carb.. Also check the electric choke/enricher. And as alley said set the valves. Hard starting and dying when hot at stops is a symptom of valves out of adjustment. Did you purchase this new or used?
Roy
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Post by royldoc on Dec 28, 2011 12:57:19 GMT -6
Hello an welcome trevnar. Your ZH-50X is the same as Ice Bears Ace (PST50S-12) model. I have a 50 size trike also. It came from the factory with a 72cc engine in it already. I have done many mods and repairs to my trike and am very familiar with it. I am not sure about the honda engine, a little more info on it would be helpful, such as the engine number. If you need help give us a detail of your problems and we can get started.
Roy
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Post by royldoc on Nov 24, 2011 9:25:34 GMT -6
May you all have a safe and happy thanksgiving day.
Roy
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Post by royldoc on Nov 15, 2011 23:48:48 GMT -6
Sounds like a great experiment if you want to spend tons of money but there are companies out there that can do it for you at a smaller cost and get it done faster. How did I know some one would chime in with a remark like this. Yes there are places that can do it for me faster and cheaper. But I am a do it myself person and don't mind spending the money or time. I may fail but will learn a lot in the process. I have spent many thousands of dollars and countless time on many projects that have failed. I still learned a lot from those experiences. knowledge that is worth every penny. If I do succeed I can say I done that and maybe use my new found knowledge to make a profit. Roy |
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Post by royldoc on Nov 15, 2011 11:46:26 GMT -6
You are correct Rich, if I do just the top of the piston it will not affect the valve clearance. However I would like to be able to do down to the bottom ring groove. I will start with just the top though for the initial test.
Roy
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Post by royldoc on Nov 15, 2011 10:28:18 GMT -6
Hey Rich, ;D my basement work bench is full of all kinds of stuff from previous and ongoing experiments. I am also working on generating hydrogen from water. My goal is to use it to heat my home first then try running an engine. I am planning on either a turbo or supercharger and will need to be able to keep the piston from burning. I did find out that as the aluminum oxidizes it grows. The oxidization layer will add about .002 of an inch to the surface, it also penetrates the surface by the same amount. The diameter of a piston will grow by about .004. This could be a problem as aluminum oxide is very hard stuff and is not easily machined. It has a hardness of c65- c70 and is almost as hard as diamonds. The piston will need to be machined to make up for this expansion. My lathe and mill will be getting a work out. Also the alloy of the aluminum is another factor.
This will probably be a lengthy subject and I will post my progress. First I need a power supply capable of delivering about 100amps at 75v dc. It probably won't need to be that big, but to big is better than not enough. This will be the most expensive Part of the system.
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Post by royldoc on Nov 15, 2011 1:14:57 GMT -6
I was researching ceramic coating and came across this subject. It is a process of type III anodizing that turns the surface into aluminum oxide. This process is also known as hard coating. I am thinking of building a set up to try to anodize the top of my pistons. This will be a fairly expensive adventure. I am going to need a good power supply. I will also need to fabricate a chiller capable of keeping the parts in the oxidizing tank at about 32 deg. I will also need a circulation system. This is going to be one of my winter projects. It will probably involve a lot of trial and errors. I also suspect I will go through a few pistons. I have done some type II anodizing in the past with some success. This method is not much different. Any input will be welcome.
Roy
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Post by royldoc on Nov 5, 2011 17:53:38 GMT -6
I don't want to hijack some body's thread on a different subject. Yes I did have the muffler mounted to the swing arm. I have fabricated more mounts for it. I even made one out of 1" galvanized pipe with a Briggs and Stratton muffler and it broke.
Roy
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Post by royldoc on Nov 5, 2011 14:35:44 GMT -6
Alley, I had it on the 50 but since it kept breaking the header pipe I took it off. I had 4 disks in it. I haven't had a chance to put it on the magnum yet. I need to modify the header pipe because the one I have has a 2 inch inlet. I might get one with 1 3/4 inch inlet as that would be closer to the original pipe size. That way I can put this one back on the fifty.
I like these exhausts and the ability to adjust the flow and sound. They will probably last longer than the scooter.
Roy
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Post by royldoc on Nov 5, 2011 10:06:04 GMT -6
I have not been able to find a bbk for the 300 yet. I could be wrong but it is my understanding that the 300 is a 250 with a bbk on it already. The 300 is actually 279.0cc. I agree with alley just rejet the carb and a performance exhaust. I also have a supertrapp exhaust. I am more interested in finding a stroker crank. I will also put an E.F.I. system on it.
Roy
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Post by royldoc on Oct 24, 2011 0:09:03 GMT -6
Most people only care about the max. speed. 40 mph is not unreasonable for a 49.5cc engine. How ever the hp claim is a little iffy. If I do the math converting the torque specs.
(2.21x6000)/5252=2.52hp
If I convert the wattage specs.
0.0013404x2100=2.81hp
2100/0.746=2.815hp
But this thread is not about the specs. claims of the website she got it from it is about her problems with the scoot.
Roy
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Post by royldoc on Oct 23, 2011 21:21:05 GMT -6
some of that stuff on that website you listed to describe your scoot looked a little hard to beleive for example 3.3hp, 40 mph max speed I'm sorry, I have to call bullsh*t on those claims. I've heard the most a 50cc scoot will make is 3.5 with all the aftermarket upgrades. so I'd be leery of any claims from that site. Did I miss something here? Roy |
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