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Post by royldoc on May 13, 2014 10:21:35 GMT -6
There should be a plate attached that has the GVWR stated on it. On my magnum is on the panel just under the handle bars. It states that the GVWR is 992 lbs.
Roy
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Post by royldoc on May 6, 2014 0:01:40 GMT -6
I am interested as well. Did something happen before you noticed the lean? (you run over something hit a curb,ect.) Are rear tires inflated properly and of the same size? swing arm bolt and bushings ok? Any unusual noises in the rear end while riding? Photo's would be a help.
Roy
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Post by royldoc on Mar 19, 2014 11:39:43 GMT -6
Hi people. I'm back, well really never was gone I have been real busy lately and have not posted but still lurk around every now and then, just to keep up with the latest gossip, (er I mean topics). I popped on today and noticed the new topics tab is missing again.
Roy
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Post by royldoc on Mar 19, 2014 11:23:20 GMT -6
Hello people. I was at harbor freight yesterday and must have missed this one. I was looking at two of there other lifts.I will have to go back and do some more recon.
Roy
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Post by royldoc on Sept 7, 2013 10:39:12 GMT -6
Why not use the proper tool for the job? They are not very expensive. Pop cans can vary in thickness any where from .003 - .0045. I set mine at .005.
Roy
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Post by royldoc on Sept 7, 2013 10:19:12 GMT -6
I own two Ice bear trikes a 50cc and a 300cc, both of them are 2010 models. If you do a proper pdi and regular maintenance they will last a good time. Like Alley stated there are not many shops that will even look at one of these trikes, but you may get lucky and find one that does. The two wheels in front present a whole different set of problems. There are some that have had good luck with them, but the majority of people that have owned then have lots of problems. As with any dealer you should do research. Check out costumer complaints, check with the bbb, ect..
A lot of people don't spend the time to research the product, the dealer or how to properly maintain said product. then they get on forums and bash said product/dealer.
A proper pdi and regular maintenance is key to the longevity of these scooters. There are threads on here on how to do a proper pdi. If you cant find them or have questions just ask and we will help.
Roy
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Post by royldoc on Aug 8, 2013 23:13:32 GMT -6
I stopped and picked up the parts from the machine shop today. I now have the 33 tooth gear with a shaft from a 47 tooth gear pressed in it. Now I gotta get busy making a testing device so I can test flow rates and pressure of the different pumps at given rpms
Roy
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Hello!
by: royldoc - Aug 8, 2013 10:49:08 GMT -6
Post by royldoc on Aug 8, 2013 10:49:08 GMT -6
Hello and welcome. Photo's of the new scoot are mandatory (not really). ;D But if ya can post one we really like to see them. A lot of folks on this forum are full of knowledge and funnin' around.
Roy
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Post by royldoc on Aug 8, 2013 9:46:52 GMT -6
I hadn't thought about 3-d printing for this project, but I have looked at 3-d printers for other projects. I can purchase a good small mill and a lathe for about the same cost as a good 3-d printer. With mills and lathes there is no software or programing needed unless I decided to convert them to cnc.
The machine shop called and said they may be able to use the original shaft, so it may not cost as much as originally quoted. I will see when they get done.
Roy
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Post by royldoc on Aug 6, 2013 12:10:12 GMT -6
This would be an easy repair. But I like the look of the carbon fiber. I could also repair it and cover it with a vinyl that looks like carbon fiber, but it wouldn't be the real deal. I also plan on making some other stuff and would like to start on a smaller project like this before I start doing bigger projects. The expense for me is not a real problem.
Roy
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Post by royldoc on Aug 6, 2013 11:43:42 GMT -6
I am wondering if anybody has tried to make their own parts with carbon fiber. I was washing and waxing my little trike and noticed a small crack in the rear fender. It starts in the center and is going lengthwise toward the front and is about 1/2 inch long already. I have been doing a lot of research this week on how to make parts with carbon fiber and found it is labor intensive not to mention expensive. I have done some fiber glass work before and it is not that much different. I did find some carbon fiber/Kevlar fabric that is red and black that I really like. the fabric is about $60 dollars a yard. Then there is the cost of making the mold, the epoxy and some other consumables that go into making carbon fiber parts. I plan on using the vacuum bagging method. I will do some smaller projects to get familiar with the process as this stuff is expensive and time consuming. I don't want to spend a lot of time and money and get bad results on the larger projects.
Roy
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Post by royldoc on Aug 6, 2013 0:15:21 GMT -6
The charging system on these fiddy engines is barley enough. I am already pushing it to the limit with the electric fuel pump for the E.F.I. system. also I would need to drill and tap holes for fittings and oil lines. Some thing I really don't want to do. There is more room for error and potential for oil leaks. These engines don't hold much oil and any leak, if not detected early could be a disaster. Roy
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Post by royldoc on Aug 6, 2013 0:07:04 GMT -6
I took the pumps and gears to a machine shop today and talked to the owner. I let him know that I would like the shaft that I pressed out of one gear and broke the hub off turned down to press into the 33 tooth gear with the center hub bored out for a press fit. He tested the pump shafts and said they are some pretty hard metal and it would be hard to turn down. he suggested to just make a new shaft. and bore the gear to fit. The price he quoted was $120-$150 dollars. It is kinda steep just to mod a $40 dollar pump and gear. but I went ahead and told him to do it. We also discussed the potential for the gear to slip on the shaft as the steel hub in the center of the gear is pretty thin and there will only be about .002 of an inch press tolerance. If it don't work I will look at making a one piece gear and shaft. but it will be rather high priced. I may even invest in a small lathe and mill. I have access to a lathe a work but not a mill.
Roy
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Post by royldoc on Aug 4, 2013 13:58:35 GMT -6
The 139QMB engine in my trike came from IceBear with a secret 72cc engine. All the "P" denotes in the engine code is the direction of the cylinder. the heads are the same. I have several heads by different manufactures. the specs are the same, valve diameter, valve length. cam size, ect.. I get better performance from one of them over the rest. not because it was tuned for a "p" engine but because of the small differences in manufacturing. such as a smaller combustion chamber. when you order an after market head they don't ask if it is a 1p39qmb or a 139qmb engine, because there is no difference.
Roy
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Post by royldoc on Aug 4, 2013 13:29:17 GMT -6
Well I tried to press the shaft out of the 47 tooth gear and found out that the hub imbedded in the gear is part of the shaft. When I tried to press it out it tore the plastic out of the gear and broke the hub off of the shaft. I will put the shaft in a lathe and turn down the broken hub flush with the shaft. I'm not sure about the gear staying on the shaft after I press 33 tooth gear onto the shaft though. I may just have the machine shop make a one piece gear and shaft. It may be pricey though. I'm going to stop at the machine shop monday and talk to the owner.
Roy
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