Clinician
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Post by jim150 on Oct 18, 2011 13:12:04 GMT -6
Thank you both for your answers but I forgot to mention I replaced original enricher. I tested the original and it works. The new one has been tested and still no change.
Forgot to mention that in my orginal post.
That was one of the first things that I suspected.
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Clinician
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Post by jim150 on Oct 18, 2011 12:44:53 GMT -6
I am trying to figure out a problem with a friends 150cc GY6 scooter.
The problem occurs when the scooter is warmed up. The engine will sputter and miss. It is almost like the ignition is being cut out as you are on the throttle. It will start fine, idle fine and rev when its cold. when it warms up the problem occurs.
here is what I have done.
replaced reg rectifier because it was fried now is wthin spec new battery because reg/rectifier toasted it. oil change spark plug new plug boot tried new CDI, no change adjusted carb air srew and shimmed needle both to rich and lean, no change.
I am running out of options here. I have not pulled carb, but if a jet was clogged i would have problems when cold too.
I have not adjusted the valves, but again, I have no reason to believe they are out of adjustment because the engine doesn't die at idle or seem to have any compression problems.
I have one last theory and it involves a an extra ground wire on the reg/rectifier. Ther is a black wire grounded there and a green wire grounded there. I am wondering if that wire might go somewhere else??
Any help is appreciated.
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Clinician
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Post by jim150 on May 4, 2011 13:35:38 GMT -6
250B scoot.
Ever had an oil leak/drip that just flat pissed you off???
Me too. Mine was leaking from the seal around where the water pump attaches to the motor. The pump is held on by two bolts and just slides into a recessed area. Engine oil is used to lubricate the pump. The oil is held in the motor by a small O ring that went bad on mine, causing the drip/leak.
Solution, new O ring from a kit of Nitrile O rings I had around. Grease the recessed part of the pump and put the O ring on. Fit everything back together and test.
This makes it sound simple but its not too hard. My scooter stays much cleaner now and so does the garage floor.
Hope this helps someone.
Jim
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Clinician
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Post by jim150 on Mar 22, 2011 16:05:13 GMT -6
there is a second fuse up by the starter solinoid. 20 amp i think. Pain to get to but it blew on mine from a similar incident. You have not blown a starter or anything else. Just a fuse.
Jim
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Clinician
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Post by jim150 on Feb 9, 2011 13:25:13 GMT -6
Yes, I have the 257cc engine.
I might wire up a volt meter to monitor the voltage as the scooter is running and see what it looks like. i wasn't sure if anyone has done this before and it sounds like no.
I have the front end off for painting and wanted to get this done so I don't have to mess with taking it on or off again.
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Clinician
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Post by jim150 on Feb 8, 2011 10:05:53 GMT -6
Hello all,
I am working on a project 250B that was destined to be scrapped because of a non start issue. To make a long story short all the mechanicals are fixed and now on to some smaller details.
I have read that some people have gone to halogen lights and some have upgraded to HID.
My question for those people is this, Can you wire up 2 55w halogen H-4 bulbs (automotive style) with no ill effects??? I understand the probelm with draw on the electrical system and also the concern with the amount of heat put out possibly melting the lenses.
Has anyone done this and what are the results? I have the bulbs laying around and the plugs to adapt them. Might do HID later, ( I used a kit on my motorcycle and am very pleased) but for right now I can basically do this upgrade for free.
Everything is stock and I'm not running any extra lighting.
Thanks Jim
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Post by jim150 on Jan 19, 2011 15:34:54 GMT -6
First of all I don't have a trike....
Two stroke motors have more power per cc than 4 strokes do.
If we were riding 150cc 2 strokes we would all have much bigger smiles on our faces.
Think older motorcyles, 70 and earlier vintage. They were mostly 2 strokes and a 500cc was considered a monster. Once they hit their powerband they went like stink. The power comes on and really pulls. 4 strokes do that as well, but the motor has to carry extra weight (crankcase filled with oil) so it is larger and heavier.
Hope this helps
Jim
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Post by jim150 on Jan 18, 2011 16:15:17 GMT -6
you would replace and or check the stator when the battery would not start your scooter. If you ride it and the battery is dead, there is a good possibility of a a stator problem.
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Post by jim150 on Jan 11, 2011 14:32:20 GMT -6
Although the headlight housing uses H4 style bulb holders, the OEM bulbs are push and twist style bases. This means you would have to hard wire the true H4 bulb to use it in this case but it would fit the headlight housing which is made for the H4 style base. Could someone elaborate on this? Does this mean an H-4 bulb will fit in the actual holes in the lenses, but they are just wired for the twist in 35W bulbs?? Has someone done this to a 54B and did the stator handle the draw at the startup of the HID? I did this to my 82 Suzuki GS1100G and the resulting light is amazing. Jim
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