Clinician
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Post by pryce on Feb 6, 2014 17:48:39 GMT -6
Oh, Also, the original R/R works perfectly again, so that was never broke, just miss matched. lol
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Clinician
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Post by pryce on Feb 6, 2014 17:45:25 GMT -6
Picture of stators Front Picture of stators rear
There are links to the pictures. The stator on top is the one from the old engine, that everything worked great on. The stator on the bottom is from the new engine that was causing all kinds of problems. After i switched them out guess what happened... i got 12 - 14 VAC on the yellow wire and, my charging voltage is 13 - 14 VDC... OMG its like voodoo lol. please look at the pictures and tell me the difference, immediately i was able to spot a big difference, the location of the green wire. Problem solved, thank you guys for helping me out and for now, can anyone help me to match a R/R to this stator so that i have a back up stator just in case anything bad were to happen?
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Clinician
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Post by pryce on Feb 6, 2014 16:54:02 GMT -6
Ok, so my flywheel puller came and I just removed the stators anyone wanna help me post the pictures seeing as last time it failed.
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Clinician
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Post by pryce on Feb 4, 2014 15:01:32 GMT -6
I'm still waiting for the flywheel puller to swap out with my old stator and see if it makes a difference before i do too many drastic changes... supposed to be here this week... As for voltages, i'm still getting 20VAC on the yellow, 20-30VAC on the white, 70-90VAC on the red/black, without the R/R plugged in and just at idle, which all seems to be normal right?
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Clinician
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Post by pryce on Feb 2, 2014 17:09:19 GMT -6
ok... so the images didn't go as planned, you can right click and copy link URL and past it in your browser to see them if that helps lol
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Clinician
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Post by pryce on Feb 2, 2014 17:08:14 GMT -6
Prior to replacing the engine, all of the electronics worked great. The previous engine had an 8 coil stator in it and I'm pretty sure the new engine has an 8 coil stator so i just plugged in the stator the same as before, yellow to yellow, white to white, and green to green. I'm waiting for the flywheel puller to arrive, I just ordered and it should be here sometime within the next week, so i can tell you what is going on inside shortly.  This should be a picture of the wires coming from the stator its self  This is the mod I did to see if i could even regulate the voltage and it worked but only once the voltage reached 120VAC lol  This is the picture of my new regulator and how i have it hooked up right now and nothing is happening... go figure |
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Clinician
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Post by pryce on Feb 1, 2014 21:34:31 GMT -6
The stator is fine... I did a weird test... I stripped whire from an normal 120vAV in 12vDc out plug and hooked it up to the yellow wire of the stator and the other plug to a ground, then I hooked up the output side into the rest of the yellow wire and the other one to ground. The lights came on but only at high rpm due to a larg amount of load, all of the light, but they came on none the less so I am certain it is just the crappy R/R I have. I'm thinking switching to a 5 white R/R. Are there any objections to this? Is anyone confused yet on what I did lol.
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Clinician
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Post by pryce on Jan 30, 2014 21:57:28 GMT -6
I'm getting ready to give up on this stator and regulator and just upgrade the stator and regulator... would that make things easier and if so, could someone give me directions to point me in the right direction on where to order all of the correct parts.
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Clinician
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Post by pryce on Jan 30, 2014 17:30:18 GMT -6
I have the regulator plugged in, but since the headlight and all the other lights blew, I haven't plugged them in yet until I can confirm that the voltage will not destroy them again. I tried to plug a light in and it would not light up until the engine was revved up really high.
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Clinician
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Post by pryce on Jan 30, 2014 17:13:25 GMT -6
The new regulator when tested as the same set up as the old regulator red to white is OL. Whit to red is .677. Yellow to green 4.05 ohms green to yellow is 4.38 ohms. The logo on top of this one is some weird symbol and SIAN. It's black with a white female connector. Let me know if there is any other info that you need.
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Clinician
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Post by pryce on Jan 30, 2014 17:01:04 GMT -6
With the new regulator when I plug it in the way you say, it starts to get quite warm, how hot should it get when operating? But the voltage coming from it is great except for the battery, it is not charging or at least not that I can see
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Post by pryce on Jan 30, 2014 16:46:47 GMT -6
Yes, and nothing happened. I just got a new regulator and I have absolutely no load on the yellow wire, but it reads 13vAc at idle and up to 60VAC revved up. I am so lost right now.
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Clinician
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Post by pryce on Jan 30, 2014 13:23:59 GMT -6
Ok, so I just discovered, when the R/R is plugged in, and the only other thing plugged in is the auto choke, I'm reading a couple hundred mV. When I unplug the auto choke, it jumps up to 12-14v at idle and when I rev it, the yellow wire goes as high as 100 VAC. Do you think the R/R is bad on the yellow wire circuit?
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Clinician
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Post by pryce on Jan 30, 2014 12:56:57 GMT -6
Ok, so from the red to white wire, on the regulator on the diode setting I get .OL. And from the white to red I get .512
From the yellow to green on ohms I get 5.92 mega ohms and from green to yellow I get 5.68 mega ohms. So according to the numbers you gave me, my r/r is ok?
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Post by pryce on Jan 29, 2014 0:00:37 GMT -6
yep thats the one, and after looking at the diagram, I'm not totally sure if the green wire grounds inside the stator which might be where my problem originates. So i might just have to run a ground wire directly to the R/R and the stator and possibly order a new stator after that. what do you think?
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