Doc's Anything Goes
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Post by glavey on Jul 16, 2014 18:51:06 GMT -6
I feel like I've opened the pandora's box of sexual puns.
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Doc's Anything Goes
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Post by glavey on Jul 16, 2014 17:11:46 GMT -6
Since you love the DIY stuff, Chinese scooters are perfect for you! That's half the reason I bought one! Bash, something like this? |
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Post by glavey on Jul 16, 2014 9:46:24 GMT -6
stop it you maniacs!...and who is this Glavey guy, he has 81 posts and looks like he's a scammer trying to sell worldly things... ... Hi there Billy Mays here to tell you about a great new product! Is your willy acting silly? Are your nipples more like pimples? Then try the great new product LeLuv penile, nipular, and vaginal vacuum super pump! But call right now and I'll throw in a vacuum gauge for free! Call right now! |
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Doc's Anything Goes
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Post by glavey on Jul 16, 2014 9:27:49 GMT -6
Most of the oil coolers for these scoots are at least $175 and most of those are for 150cc and require a new piece of the engine casing with pressure taps or require you to drill and tap holes yourself. And I haven't seen one that includes an auxiliary pump.
The total cost for my DIY solution so far is $77.18 which includes a radiator far bigger than the ones in the kit and a pump to flow more oil through it.
Plus I freakin' love DIY stuff!
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Post by glavey on Jul 15, 2014 9:15:26 GMT -6
... A simple drilling with a pressure fitting...boom. ...
I was going to use a 1/8" npt drill and tap and an elbow+1/8" npt to hose barb fitting to return oil to the valve cover. Is that what you meant by pressure fitting or was it something different? Also, I'm thinking the valve cover might not be thick enough to get the threads good and seated. How about putting a mound of epoxy on top of the valve cover where I plan to drill and tap, letting it dry and cure, and then drilling and tapping through the epoxy and the valve cover? I'll see if I can get a mock-up done to show you where I might put the radiator. |
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Post by glavey on Jul 14, 2014 21:16:07 GMT -6
Ah, yes I forgot about that. Thanks for the reminder.
Another thought; It appears the only place I am going to be able to mount the radiator is above the engine. Should I be using check valves on certain lines?
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Post by glavey on Jul 14, 2014 20:32:30 GMT -6
While I was browsing ebay today I found something that caught my eye:  I have no words to convey my thoughts on this. |
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Post by glavey on Jul 14, 2014 19:10:36 GMT -6
Ah, I see your point.
Hey Bash, a few questions; with the cooler and the pump lines being pressurized, should I be using compression or AN fittings, or will hose barbs and hose clamps be enough?
I read your thread where you installed the oil cooler. You put the return line into the oil filter cap instead of the valve cover, any reason why? I would rather do that because I can buy another oil filter cap cheaper than another valve cover if I want to remove the cooler.
Any tips/tricks/hazards to watch out for that you came across in your oil cooler install that you can pass on?
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Post by glavey on Jul 14, 2014 8:23:31 GMT -6
...Imagine what would happen to a car engine if you were able to increase its size to almost double using the same block? ... Turbocharged engines. You aren't really increasing the size if the engine, but it isn't uncommon to get double the power from a decent sized turbo. And what does happen is BOOM! I'm not really looking for more power ATM, I have enough with the 72cc bbk. If I want or need more power than that, I'll look at getting a 150 and a motorcycle endorsement.Or maybe even go straight to a motorcycle. Edit: How about something simple and passive to reduce temperature, like those air scoops for the fan mounted on the flywheel. Do those do anything or are they just crap? |
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Post by glavey on Jul 13, 2014 19:46:49 GMT -6
I've slowly had that reality dawned upon me recently. It seems as the mods increase the reliability decreases. It sucks having the modification itch along with common sense. Also, with regards to this link; there is another one even bigger with 6 passes for only 4 more cents here. I just don't know where the heck I would mount that. |
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Post by glavey on Jul 13, 2014 19:01:52 GMT -6
It appears that pump is only for intermittent use. linkWhat about something like this or this |
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Post by glavey on Jul 13, 2014 16:54:33 GMT -6
I know precisely what you mean. It's like analog vs digital watches.
I want to work on building an analog tach from the stepper motors from GM dashes and an arduino. I would imagine those would be lightning quick.
Edit: One additional thing I should add is that the wires coming from the tach are an incredibly small gauge. It wouldn't surprise me if the cross-section of the wires were less than 0.75mm. The insulation makes them look like 18-16 gauge, but the wire inside is much smaller. I would suggest soldering, not crimping, on a bigger wire and then wire the tach into your scoot from those wires.
Also, the rubber instrument light holder is, well... clumsy is the best way I can put it. There are folded metal contacts inside of a rubber boot. The contacts are not adhered in any way to the rubber, they just sit in cut out corners. The light bulb itself looks to be a rather rare one. I'll get pictures of all of this tomorrow.
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Post by glavey on Jul 13, 2014 16:01:34 GMT -6
Very true. If I can I'll get a video comparing the two tachs on my scooter. I will give an advance warning though; the digital tach in my scoot only reads 1/2 on the actual rpms, I think it was designed for a 2-cylinder engine.
The tach (the one linked to in the OP) is made in and ships from china.
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Post by glavey on Jul 13, 2014 15:39:35 GMT -6
No, I was going to buy a separate pump like the one you posted a picture of.
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Post by glavey on Jul 13, 2014 14:22:00 GMT -6
This won't be an in depth test or review, I just wanted to let people who are looking at these know they do work. I have wanted an analog tach on my scoot for a while so when I had a few extra dollars around I decided to venture onto the interwebs and see what I could find. If you look around amazon or ebay for a motorcycle or scooter tachometer chances are very good you will find a tach that looks similar to this one. I ordered that tach a few weeks ago and just recently had a chance to try it out on my scoot. Before I get to the results, I'll go through the wiring. It's quite easy; connect the black wire to switched +12v, green to ground, and yellow/black to the positive side of your ignition coil. The orange and blue wires go to the light so their polarity doesn't really matter, just connect one to switched +12v and the other to ground. When I tested the tach, I was just seeing if it worked so I used a very quick and dirty wiring job involving many alligator clip test leads. With the engine running the tach read very close to what my other digital chinese tiny-tach knockoff read. At about 4000 rpms the reading was about 100 rpms off as compared to the tiny tach, at 6000 rpms it was off by about 250 rpms. The needle movement is not very fast, nothing like you get in a car. if you quickly revved the engine to 6krpm from idle, it might take the tach about 1/2 to 3/4 seconds to get to the 6k mark. Here is a video from youtube that shows the same type of tach and a real tiny tach connected to an engine for comparison. Note that this is not my video. |
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