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Post by tominbmore on Apr 16, 2015 9:47:40 GMT -6
Yes your correct his is a 2 stroke and there will always be a little oil because oil is mixed with the gas in the chamber. But to much oil and it will foul the plugs all the time and you will have a hard time starting the puppies. Way to spot if to much oil is being injected into the carb is how much it smokes. If a cloud of smoke is trailing you then to much oil is being injected into the carb and or to much oil is being pre-mixed. Alleyoop Thanks man. I'll take a closer look. I've been on a few rides and so far haven't seen big plumes after the ride has been going on for a while. At the beginning I did, but that might have just been because if water that had gotten into the exhaust over the winter. It was noticeable, but not an odd color, and didn't seem to last very long. I'll take a closer look after 20 minutes riding. Aside from the odd high idle-rev issue (noted above), which you said might be my enricher, I now have the odd thing that when the engine is cold the ignition does not start (but the kick start works with barely the slightest kick). When warmed the key ignition does work. Weird. Maybe a circuit in the starter wiring set-up?? |
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Post by tominbmore on Apr 16, 2015 9:26:56 GMT -6
Tom, Is your engine a 2 stroke? Do you mix your oil and gas? Do you put oil in every time you gas up? If so, then the kind of engine you have is different like Dent said. But you can still use the Seafoam, and we can adjust the advice we give you. If you do have a 2 stroke, then you will use up plugs fairly often. I've had to change plugs in a 2T about 3 times a year in an engine that got used every day for hours. (Weed whacker). Your's might be less, might be more often. Depends on how much you ride and how you ride. Yes indeed it is a two-stroke. I should have clarified! I also do NOT mix oil and gas. They each have their own tank for refilling, and as of now they both are filled up with new stuff. |
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Post by tominbmore on Apr 14, 2015 15:06:21 GMT -6
Ok, Now go get yourself a can of SEAFOAM. Pour about 1/8 can into your tank then top it off with gas. That will clean a ton of crud from the inside of the engine and it should run much better and have more power as well. Thanks man. Actually when you posted that I had already topped up my half full tank from the Fall. So should I wait till the tank is below halfway or so before putting this SEAFOAM stuff? |
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Post by tominbmore on Apr 12, 2015 7:59:12 GMT -6
Excellent thanks I was hoping that was the solution. I did 15 consecutive ignition starts and successful every time. Only slight issue is that when I started her cold she revved high at aboit 8000 rpms at IDLE for about 45 secs to a minute. Then settled down to solid 2000 rpm idle and responsive when I opened throttle. You guys are life savers I really appreciate your time and know-how. Tom It could be your ENRICHER is not working. You can test it if you Want. Take it off(held) on with only two screws and a "C" clamp. The Enricher should feed it extra FUEL for COLD STARTS, once the motor starts it feeds voltage to the Enricher and then the plunger extends out and shuts off the extra fuel. If it is already extended when cold then when you start the motor cold IT IS VERY LEAN. It should look like this when you take it off and the motor is COLD: ENRICHER RETRACTED:  IF IT LOOKS LIKE THIS COLD IT IS BAD:  Great insight Alley! I'll check that out. That explanation makes sense. The super high "revving" idle after the cold start seemed like an extreme version of how idle will stay super high before coming down when one is dealing with an air / fuel screw turned way too lean. Went and put fresh gas in the scooter and when I started her up the issue wasn't there. Prob bc the engine was warmed like you say. T. |
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Post by tominbmore on Apr 11, 2015 16:19:06 GMT -6
Excellent thanks I was hoping that was the solution.
I did 15 consecutive ignition starts and successful every time.
Only slight issue is that when I started her cold she revved high at aboit 8000 rpms at IDLE for about 45 secs to a minute. Then settled down to solid 2000 rpm idle and responsive when I opened throttle.
You guys are life savers I really appreciate your time and know-how.
Tom
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Post by tominbmore on Apr 11, 2015 15:34:40 GMT -6
She's running! Tested spark on new plug and honestly couldn't tell if it was better than old plug... but it looked a little more healthy spark. Then plugged er in and cranked ignition and she now starts every time without fail. Wow. Only weird thing is that the plug doesn't want to perfectly fit into the plug holder thing bc they are both now female on the ends. (My old plug was just a straight up open screw that fit into the screw holder on the plug cap). So the plug cap could disconnect at thr slightest bump.   Ever seen that?? |
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Post by tominbmore on Apr 11, 2015 15:04:03 GMT -6
Guitarman, here's a shot of a couple fat wires (bundled wires perhaps?), secured to outside of plastic housing surrounding the engine block (I think). That what you mean?  |
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Post by tominbmore on Apr 11, 2015 14:56:26 GMT -6
Sweet I'll stay right HERE. You all are doing right by me so far.
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Post by tominbmore on Apr 11, 2015 13:58:52 GMT -6
Tx guys. I'm sure hoping I don't have to open up my engine. This noob aint never done that. 0_0
Guitar man tx. I've finally latched on to the logic that if the old plug and new plug create same spark, then they're either both GOOD (meaning something else is to blame, or they're both BAD (meaning something is causing the bad spark other than the plugs themselves).
I found a good step by step tutorial on another forum that walks through this "if you have spark... then", and "if you still don't have spark then chevk ignition coil or stator"... I at least feel like I'm locked in to the process now and follow the tests to the right solution.
I appreciate your input!
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Post by tominbmore on Apr 11, 2015 13:13:33 GMT -6
Alleyoop,
Compression seems fine. Wide open throttke plus ignition crank = pushing finger out of the slot. Specifically, the finger was kinda bouncing off the edge of the hole. Good air pushing out, and I really had to make an effort to keep my finger snug like it started.
But I'm not convinced... am I looking for like REALLY strong air force like a nail gun etc.?
Sound ok?
Plug cleaned and I'll check for spark one more time.
Btw whst does "bad rings" mean?
Tx for your help!!
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Post by tominbmore on Apr 11, 2015 12:50:00 GMT -6
Ok alleyoop will do! !
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Post by tominbmore on Apr 11, 2015 12:49:02 GMT -6
Also I've judt done a test following videos online. What I saw was a very thin spark not quite sure what color but thrre was a hint of blue in there. This very thin spark might be the norm but my hunch is this spark is weak. I'm not in dark garage bUT I'm outside in the shade and with my head and hoodie blocking indirect light.
Also,it seems like every other time I crank the engine I get no spark at all. Based on the pics above, my not expert guess is the plug is all gummed up and blocking a good spark.
Video coming soon.
I've bought plug replacement and will test it as a control test.
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Post by tominbmore on Apr 11, 2015 12:36:05 GMT -6
Hey all! Finally got the right socket extension abd got the plug out. I'm gonna test for spark next. In meantime here's a few looks at my plug. I don't know what's good or bad and I don't have the doohickey to measure mm gap. Care to tell me what you think?    |
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Post by tominbmore on Apr 6, 2015 19:35:01 GMT -6
Ok awesome tx!
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Post by tominbmore on Apr 6, 2015 19:26:07 GMT -6
Hey guys, So I checked the wires to see if a big fat one had come off of the engine and lost its "ground." But no wires have come off the engine or frame as far as I'm concerned. In fact, just like before, there are still many different bundled wires secured against the side of the scooter frame heading from front to back. There are bundled wires coming from the stator abd going to abd from the battery, for example, but they've always been that way. Alleyoop I followed your advice with the fuel ratio screw, turning it a full half turn, then a little more. But the result was the same when starting via ignition and via kick start. No luck. As for the spark plug, I opened the ratchet set I got from amazon but discovered that the bolt securing my plug, like all things on this TGB scooter, is DIFFERENT from the norm. So the socket plus extension wouldn't was too skinny. See photo here:  I checked the sockets and found that the 13/16 fit the very-wide bolt. But of course that wasn't compatible with the spark plug socket extension, so I could only try to attach the 13/16 on its own. This created a separate problem bc the exposed part of the plug was too long for the 13/16 socket to reach the bolt. See photo here:  So I suppose I could try to remove the casing aroubd the engine there? Or might thry hsve a 13/16 socket thar will fit my spark plug extension? Advice is welcome here. This company is making it way too hard for me to do something most scooter owners can do easily. Tx! |
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