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Post by skunkhome on Jun 3, 2015 7:22:49 GMT -6
While working on the headlamp and taillight Monday I discovered that I have no brake light with front or rear brake. Bulb is good but apparently getting no power. I finally found the section in the Helix manual that covered the brake lite switch but there is no indication as to where the thing is. I hate to once again go stripping the plastic off this bike. I broke one of the tail light lenses trying to put the darn thing back on Monday. Can someone tell me where to look?
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Post by skunkhome on Jun 3, 2015 7:01:53 GMT -6
Oh Spacey, I missed you last post somehow. It appears the cords were busted after all. Sometimes when you have had a lot of punctures the tread will separate from the cords. Ive even had truck tires do that and the entire tread peel off. Well Glad your up and safely running. BTW: your surfboard rack looks like a good way to impale someone.
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Post by skunkhome on Jun 3, 2015 6:50:57 GMT -6
There is a bulge in the tire on the left hand side. At that point the tire is either not seated properly or you hit something and the cords in the tire are busted. If the cords are busted than the bike is not safe to ride and you will need to get a new tire.
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Post by skunkhome on May 31, 2015 22:57:15 GMT -6
Well, it looks like this is dead. I guess it's the wrong focus for this site.
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Post by skunkhome on May 30, 2015 11:01:25 GMT -6
Mine calls for 20-50,,,but i do add 2-3 oz of lucas oil stabilizer,,no problems ,,, now that is a whole other argument. I occasionally use SeaFoam to keep the carb sweet and Stabil for engines that get little use or gas that sits for over 30 days. That can spark some heated exchanges.
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Lost key
by: skunkhome - May 30, 2015 9:24:41 GMT -6
Post by skunkhome on May 30, 2015 9:24:41 GMT -6
This is no ordinary machine. You put the original in and it uses a laser to scan the whole thing. Then if you told it it's a programmable key, it scans it for the code. Then it selects a blank and laser cuts it. Pretty cool to watch. The thing has like 3 buttons on it. Very cool! I will have to check that out over here but I fear I'll be disappointed.
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Post by skunkhome on May 30, 2015 9:04:42 GMT -6
The point is, for me, the least of my worries is what the driver in front of me sees unless my intention is to pass him. There are people who never look in the rear view mirror; my wife being one. I personally believe the safest place to control the lane is from the high side track. IMO, when riding staggered in groups the trailing bike should take the high position to command the lane for the group. Riding in the low track by yourself or at the rear of a group encourages the 4 wheeler behind you to treat you like a bicycle. If they are hell bent on lane sharing I would prefer them passing on the low side as they are less likely to clip you with the drivers side. As you say you have to tailor your position to match the situation but I think it is categorically wrong to teach novices the the middle of the lane is the best place to ride.
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Post by skunkhome on May 30, 2015 1:10:15 GMT -6
I agree with you guys. I do not relish becoming a skunk sandwich. Back when I took my test for motorcycle endorsement this is what we had to regurgitate from the official Louisiana motorcycle study guide. (Left column) I think this is wrong on a number of points but I spouted it off for the test but always rode to the edge of the lane to give myself an exit. I am not really concerned about the person in front of me running over me. Yes it could happen but how many of you have been hit by the guy in front of you? Also typically the only time I run in the grease (middle of the lane) is to avoid obstacles or cross RR tracks or rough pavement transitions.
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Lost key
by: skunkhome - May 30, 2015 0:30:01 GMT -6
Post by skunkhome on May 30, 2015 0:30:01 GMT -6
Interesting! Home Depot here can't even cut a padlock key successfully. The sidewinder key has a special shape that precludes cutting on an ordinary key cutting machine. Things are a little different here in the 48. Spam isn't typical fare for Sunday dinner.
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Post by skunkhome on May 29, 2015 20:51:50 GMT -6
Generally the wheel weights are normal. So, what did you get?
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Post by skunkhome on May 29, 2015 19:15:17 GMT -6
When you're riding in stop and go traffic and traffic is stopped, how do you position your bike in relationship to the car/truck in front of you? This question is of course for those of us who ride where lane splitting is not allowed.
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Heads turn
by: skunkhome - May 29, 2015 19:06:00 GMT -6
Post by skunkhome on May 29, 2015 19:06:00 GMT -6
I have noticed that a lot of folks are coming up to me while I out and about with my Helix clone and inquire about the bike. I've ridden motorcycles and scooters and never drew this much attention. I am practically invisible on my new Piaggio Beverly but that Eagle Metro is definitely a head turner. I think it's the ugliest bike you will fall in love with on the first ride.
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Lost key
by: skunkhome - May 29, 2015 18:16:55 GMT -6
Post by skunkhome on May 29, 2015 18:16:55 GMT -6
The scooter originally came with two keys. One red/brown and one blue. The red/brown key was the master and the blue was the slave. If you had the master you could program up to 3 blue keys to your bike by inserting them in the ignition in order after thr master then followed by the master. If you have lost the red/brown key your options are limited. There are only two places in the country that Piaggio recognizes can cut and code keys off any working slave you might have. That is Scooterswest in California and FS1 Racing in Texas. Ordering a blank will not help unless you have someone who can program the blank. You have to send your key to them. I also bought my Piaggio BV250 second hand and it had one two sided black key which is an aftermarket slave. Yours probably has the sidewinder that requires special equipment to cut as well as program. I have a phobia of loosing my key.
I found a shop locally that claims they can cut and program the keys. The service is $75 a pop. I have spoken to FS1 Racing and they charge $30 for the service. If you choose to send you key to someone you need to insure it against loss to the tune of about $1600 because if it is lost it will cost you at least that to have the ignition switch, computer and helmet rack lock replaced. If you're handy that cost could be as little as $600. I'm going to give the locals a try when the blanks arrive then probably send my spare to FS1 Racing to have another copy produced.
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Post by skunkhome on May 28, 2015 15:50:16 GMT -6
I think we're chasing our tails here. Now I'm sorry I started the thread.
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Post by skunkhome on May 28, 2015 7:59:50 GMT -6
I really must respectfully disagree. You just can't make blanket statements like that. If I fill my oil in my ch80 with the stick screwed down them check it the way the manual states, the oil doesn't even touch the stick much less get into the hash marks. If I can't find checking procedures on my engine. I fill to capacity run it for a couple of minutes then check to see what method puts the oil where it's supposed to be on the dipstick. If you don't know the capacity of the crankcase then your flying in the dark. Anything worth doing is worth doing right. That is, if at all possible. The wiring on my Eagle Metro 250 is a case in point.
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