Purchased a used Eagle Metro 250t-A By skunkhome (Read 6,341 times)

[kz1000st]

I know this is slightly off topic but I always wondered about the Phantom Power Draw. I noticed that when I turn off the key I get a sound from the speakers like they're being disconnected from power. I wonder if the radio is pulling something even with the key off. I just keep the battery maintainer on it over long periods but it's the only bike in the garage that does lose power. The Bashans and the Honda just fire up after months of inactivity.

[skunkhome]

What kind of rpm?

[skunkhome]

How much can voltage drop in a battery just sitting on the shelf and still be good. I changed the battery last night and took it off with a charge of 13.32 volts about 11:00 PM. it was at 13.19 at 9:00 am this morning. At this rate I'm thinking it would be flat pretty quickly.

[Bashan]

It should level out and quit dropping in 24 hours. They won't hold a high charge like that, it's actually overcharged because you have to use higher volts to "force" a charge. A charged battery on the shelf will be about 12.5v DC after it settles out, maybe a touch more. I'm going downstairs in a bit, I'll put the multi on a couple batteries and see what they say. I just rode the SYM, it should be topped out. Rich

[Bashan]

OK, I put a good battery on the Battery Tender Junior a few days ago and it was sitting on the bench off of everything for a couple days=> 12.70v DC. We rode the Puma 150 and the SYM 300 today. SYM=> 12.99v DC, Puma=>12.8v DC. The SYM is heavily electronic so I suspect it carries a higher charge, it's got a funny looking battery too. I've never checked the charging voltage on the SYM, the battery is ALWAYS hot. A bike's battery after a ride will have a different charge than after a charger. A bike's charge at the battery is regulated...constantly changing. Plus. there's a constant draw on it, it won't get over 13v DC normally. But on a charger it's just soaking up electrons with no draw. Yes folks, I know a good charger regulates, I don't make all of this up. It's still a different process and cheaper chargers tend to just pump juice in. But still, a battery charged over 13v DC should settle down to high 12's in 24 to 48 hours.

[Alleyoop]

Why not check if it is charging or not, start it up put the volt meter on the battery rev it up to 4-5k and if is charging it should read 13+ volts. If not then it is the regulator or stator. I have a clock and date display built in my instrument panel plus a radio I installed BUT I have a toggle switch on the radios 12v coming from the battery and only switch it on when I am riding. Reason I did that is because the radio also has a time and date display and then both would be drawing juice just sitting there.
Alleyoop

[skunkhome]

I intend to check the charging just got sidetracked by the battery holding its charge and wanted to get it settled that is is or isn't good since it is brand new and I really have not had the time to run the tests or take the side panel off.

[Bashan]

An easy way to check the voltage on your battery if it's hard to get at like the floorboards is to put the red probe on the red terminal of the solenoid and the black probe on any frame spot that's bare like a bolt hole or a bolt. It's just like touching the terminals of the battery.

[skunkhome]

Oh access is no issue. I installed a slave cable the first day i got the bike and the battery has a built in voltmeter.

[skunkhome]

Still trying to sort out my electrical issues.   I finally put a quality ohmmeter on the three yellow leads going to the stator and got readings across each lead at 0.80 Ohm.  That falls within the specified range of .1 to 1. Ohms.   I also started and tested it for voltage and it put out 15-20 volts at idle and just above.  Couldn't check it at 5k because the center stand is screwed up.   I appear to be getting in excess of 15v at idle at battery.   The PO stated that he replaced the rectifier so I am now concerned that it might be wrong.  This is a diagram of the harness shown in the honda helix manual:


and this is what I have on the scooter:   This is ignition side: 
It reads 12v across the green and black and  yellow and black with ignition on.  Black is the positive 

this is the rectifier side: 


and as you can note there are only two leads the positive lead ends in the ignition side if the p4 connector. Now I'm puzzled. Can anyone clarify this for me.

[skunkhome]

I found a few Honda Helix rectifiers on eBay and all the ones I have seen Have three leads Red, green and black in the p4 connector.

[Bashan]

I'm a little confused and I don't want to get this wrong. This is the ignition side connector? What color is the yellow wire exactly? The other side of the connector is to R/R?

This is to R/R I'm assuming? Where do the red and green wires run on other side of connector? The yellows, other side, are from stator correct?

[Bashan]

I can tell you some things to do to start mapping this out. You have continuity function on your multi? Do you have some plastic off so we can get to the ignition switch?

The black wire from your ignition is probably energized from the battery red when you turn on the key. It then supplies most of the bike with power. The three yellows from the stator supply the R/R with energy which it converts to DC voltage. If I'm getting the connectors right the red wire coming OUT of the R/R runs to charge the battery. The yellow is a mystery, that is atypical. That comes right from the ignition switch? If you can answer those questions best you can then I would like to do some continuity testing and we'll map this out no problem. Rich

[skunkhome]

The ignition side connector is black, green and yellow instead of black, green and red white. The readings work out fine if you substitute yellow for R/W. The issue I see is that the rectifier is a 5 wire rectifier where apparently it should be 6 wire.
the three yellow Leads in the p3 connector  lead from the stator to the rectifier.... The red and green wire lead from the rectifier to the p4 connector to the wiring harness going to the battery and ignition switch.   It appears I am missing a black wire running from the p4 connector to the rectifier.   When I do a search for cn250 rectifiers I find both 6 and 5 wire units. 

 

[Bashan]

It's a moot point, it is what it is. Let me go look at a couple things, I'll be right back.