Purchased a used Eagle Metro 250t-A By skunkhome (Read 6,340 times)

[skunkhome]

I was wrong... It wasn't CF Moto. www.scootersus.com/cfmoto.html

[skunkhome]

Well, I got my tire in last Friday and have it mounted and received my other parts today. I was pleased that my fork bearing was made in japan. Hopefully I will have time in the next couple of days to install the parts and put the bike back together.

[kz1000st]

Many CF Moto parts are Japanese. The transmission bearings all were made there.

[jvino]

That's the bike I thought you had it looks very simiar to the helix. I wasn't awair they were 1800 new so for like over 2000 dollars you could have it on the road ready to go. I believe you got a fair deal on yours. There is a couple of these scooters around were I live I see from time to time they seem to do well.

[kz1000st]

When I first saw these after I got my first scooter I thought they were epically ugly. Then I started to read about them and understood why. The whole Helix scooter was built to last and every component was put where longevity was maximized. It may be ugly but it works. It has trickled down to the clones too. The only difference is that the Honda was put together to run flat out all day. Do that with the Chinese versions and you're cooked. They last best if you remember that 65 mph is about all you can safely run all day. Beyond that the clock is ticking.

The CF Moto Fashion originally had an MSRP of $3350 and you could haggle down from there. A Honda Helix last sold for $5600 and you could take it or leave it. I picked mine up for a song with 1900 miles. I don't regret it a bit. It's not just a great scooter, it's a great bike.

[jvino]

Kz is right on a dependable scooter for a reasonable price hard to beat you did well skunk.

[skunkhome]

Well, I got it back together. I am thinking putting the muffler back on is a two man job. I got mine on only after many tries. It gets awfully heavy trying to hold in position, align the screws and get the first nut on the exhaust studs.

I have put about 20-25 miles on it so far and it takes a bit of getting used to. It drives nice in traffic, has no trouble keeping ahead of traffic but is a little strange in the corners and is a real pig in the parking lots. When I make a u turn I feel like its a Greyhound Bus.

I have noticed that sometimes when I pull off slowly the bike is a little jerky for the first couple of feet when I accelerate briskly I don't feel it. Is this something I need to look in to?

[davec]

Jul 2, 2014 20:16:14 GMT -6 skunkhome said:

I have noticed that sometimes when I pull off slowly the bike is a little jerky for the first couple of feet when I accelerate briskly I don't feel it. Is this something I need to look in to?

No, You answered your question; take off more briskly

I had the same problems putting my exh pipe back on. A real PITA

I've got the same scoot, but it's a Wildfire and a 150cc
The GF's son trashed it, but the motor still tuns great
May strip it down to get the big ruckus look

enjoy and ride safe

[Alleyoop]

Jul 2, 2014 20:16:14 GMT -6 skunkhome said:

I have noticed that sometimes when I pull off slowly the bike is a little jerky for the first couple of feet when I accelerate briskly I don't feel it. Is this something I need to look in to?

That usually is caused by the Clutch Pads are a little glazed and starting off slow they will slip a little. You could take the bell off and sand the glaze off but they will glaze again if you are very light on the throttle taking off. So the best thing is take off with a little more power and they will not get glazed up so soon.
Alleyoop

[skunkhome]

Well, she rides like a dream but with an underlying nightmare. I rode it over to DMV, approximately 8 miles, shut it off and it would not restart. The battery that was fully charged at the beginning of the ride was flatted to the point of only reading about 11 volts . I had to get some one to jump me off and rode the bike home. About 3 miles from the house the turn signal stop working and then I started getting strange readings on my electronic dash. By the time I got home even though the scooter was still running there was no indicators on the electronic dash. When I got off and check the battery it was at 8.5 volts. The PO said that he had replace the rectifier and I am wondering if he changed the right part.
I'm afraid the battery will go dead on a run and burn up my engine.

Who has experience trouble shooting the charging systems on the helix.

[davec]

Jul 3, 2014 15:53:13 GMT -6 skunkhome said:

Well, she rides like a dream but with an underlying nightmare. I rode it over to DMV, approximately 8 miles, shut it off and it would not restart. The battery that was fully charged at the beginning of the ride was flatted to the point of only reading about 11 volts . I had to get some one to jump me off and rode the bike home. About 3 miles from the house the turn signal stop working and then I started getting strange readings on my electronic dash. By the time I got home even though the scooter was still running there was no indicators on the electronic dash. When I got off and check the battery it was at 8.5 volts. The PO said that he had replace the rectifier and I am wondering if he changed the right part.
I'm afraid the battery will go dead on a run and burn up my engine.

Who has experience trouble shooting the charging systems on the helix.

Bad stator and/or reg rectifier

[skunkhome]

Well, I've been reading the helix service manual and it really does not sound like rocket science.  But frankly I would rather be riding.  I do have one question... In the first step of diagnosis you check for leaking by checking voltage across the negative battery pole to the ground.  It is supposed to be zero.  I wonder how the digital dash with its clock effects that reading .  I just checked the leak and I definitely have a draw when the ignition is turned off.  Now I have to start pulling fuses to see if I can find out where the parasite is. 

[Bashan]

I didn't find it to be zero but it wouldn't be enough to suck your battery down like it did. Follow the manual, check the continuity and resistance on the stator. Then check the voltage on the legs of the stator. Unhook the three yellow plug and test stator side with the multi set to AC and top range 100v AC. Put a probe in each yellow in all combinations of three wires to test each leg, you should get 70 to 90v AC with some RPM, if not...bad stator. Like this to test and get all combinations to get each leg comprised of two yellows off of each two coils...i.e. a "leg". Do you understand this?

If that's OK hook things back up and check your charging voltage with some RPM, it should be around 14.5v DC. If not you have a bad R/R.

[skunkhome]

Yes that makes sense. Manual just states to check continuity across each circuit. It won't hurt to run stator without a load?

[Bashan]

No, it won't hurt a thing, unplug the three yellows and test them. The way this three phase works is it's not grounded so when the flywheel is spinning the electrons don't go anywhere until you touch the two probes. There's some thought that the magnetic stress on the coils will cause some heat, but if you take a few minutes to get your readings it shouldn't matter. I've did the tests in series with the other probe grounded to the other side of the yellow as it enters the R/R but I think the AC leg version of the test is more reliable. The latter way brings the R/R in as a variant and complicates things. I've did GY6 stator tests from the charging coil to frame and the stator is fine afterwards. You just don't want to stress things out for an extended period. Rich