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Post by Bashan on Jul 14, 2014 12:01:29 GMT -6
Guess what I was thinking about when I woke up this morning? That's right, why this bike has a red green coming off of the R/R. That's what happens when you hit 61 kiddies....rectifiers....
OK SH, if you want to pursue this you need to get some plastic off so we can see what the config is. You would need to expose the ignition switch so we can eyeball the wires and test the switch:
Then we need to get continuity checks with the key off and on. Your wires may be different but with the ignition side unplugged test continuity from red to back key on and off. If you have a blue/black test continuity from red to blue/black, and black to blue/black. If you have a black/white test to ground key on and off. And check ground wire to frame. Once I know what the ignition switch is doing we can work back to the R/R and solenoid. We need to look at your CDI also. It is probably on the right upper rail but can be elsewhere. Here is the probable CDI config:
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Post by skunkhome on Jul 14, 2014 16:41:45 GMT -6
Thanks for the info. Sorry I woke you with this foolishness. I oft wake up thinking about projects. I've been thinking about this all day but am swamped with work so sorting through this may take some time. I already took off the plastic from around the key switch but have not touched the tunnel. My little shed is cramped with the new scooter and all my other stuff but daily thunderbumpers are keeping me from taking it outside.
As I see it right now the 4p connected with the three wires. Black wire is hot with ignition on. Green is ground. Yellow that occupies the same position as your R:/w should be hot all the time but is never hot on my bike. If it is fused as it should it may have a blown fuse from PO 's tinkering.
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Post by JR on Jul 15, 2014 9:57:43 GMT -6
f the yellow is the same as the R/W and goes to the battery it is indeed fused. Yellow is odd for this because even in the Chinese scooter world red is generally the wire that goes from the R/R to the battery to charge only? Even the CF Moto diagram displays the standard wiring specs as 6 wire with 3 yellows (from stator) RED TO BATTERY, BLACK AS THE HOT THAT READS VOLTAGE NEEDS, GREEN AS GROUND.
If the yellow is this wire it will be easy enough to trace.
JR
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Post by skunkhome on Jul 15, 2014 17:57:11 GMT -6
Ok guys, thanks for the help. Please bear with me as I will get on this again as soon as possible. I have to admit, Bashan, that the photo of the wiring harness is intimidating.
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Post by skunkhome on Jul 23, 2014 20:03:14 GMT -6
I still have not had the opportunity to trace out my wiring as I have been going from can to can't everyday. I went out this evening and found my new battery "flat" after being hooked up for 10-12 days. I disconnected the negative side and hooked it up for charge. It read something like 6 volts. I let it charge at 1.5A for about 1.5 hr and it is up to about 12.4 with charger off. I tested off the negative pole to negative lead and I have a draw of 50mA DC with the ignition off and the rectifier unplugged. I realize that there is some parasitic draw by the clock but does that figure sound excessive?
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Post by kalee on Jul 31, 2014 16:38:47 GMT -6
Nice looking bike skunkhome kalee
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Post by skunkhome on Sept 17, 2014 16:59:01 GMT -6
Wow did I burn the main fusible link? I've been screwing around with this wiring and couldn't make sense of it so I just went in and installed my new regulator with three leads coming out into the wiring harness. I cranked it up and first noticed the head light wasn't working as I'm trying to sort that out a heard a pop and a whiff of ozone. This is what I have. I shut her down and disconnected the new rec/reg and tried it again and the scooter starts and runs. Dash lights up but no head light and of course there is no charging circuit.
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Post by Bashan on Sept 17, 2014 18:55:08 GMT -6
I can't tell where that is, can you back it up a little and tell us where those wires run?
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Post by skunkhome on Sept 18, 2014 7:43:37 GMT -6
The line that popped and burnt goes into the bottom of the starter solenoid. It's the one covered with the woven insulator.
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Post by skunkhome on May 13, 2015 18:49:25 GMT -6
Well, at long last I'm back. I got so discouraged with the Metro 250 that it sat idle for almost a year. I did not register the thing and finally it stopped running because the fuel pump was not working anymore. I finally got tired of trying to sort out the abortion they call a wiring harness on this bike and decided to run my own fused charging circuit off the rectifier but because of the no run situation I couldn't test it. Finally I went out there one afternoon determined to get it running. Lo and behold the fuel pump came to life when I turned the key and the old girl sprang to life and the dynamo is cranking out good voltage to the battery. To my surprise the the headlight was working as well, so off to the DMV I went and finally got it legal. I drove it all over town and when I got home and shut her down. I first noticed that the headlight did not turn off unless I cut off the battery isolator I installed in the fall. Then when I got ready to move it into the shed the fuel pump stopped working again. I started tearing off plastic and uncovered "kablesalat". There are other loose wires running about, an abandoned ground with no sign of what happened to the five wires that were attached there. As I am trying to test the pump and shade tree wiring going to it, it suddenly started working again. I shook and twisted the wires and couldn't make it stop working. I traced the un fused wiring back to a splice at the ignition switch. I twisted the splice and still no failure. So now I don't know if I have a bad circuit, bad ignition switch or a bad fuel pump. The headlight also has decided not to work. So I have some grimlins in the wiring harnesses. I have just about decided to wire around everything that works and go after the headlights and wire them so that they turn on and off as they are supposed to. At any rate I am no longer discouraged as it is running like a top and I know I can put in my own circuits for reliable power to any point on the bike.
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Post by Guitarman on May 13, 2015 19:43:12 GMT -6
Sweet. Nothing to it once you get in there and involved.
(yeah riiiiiight.....LOL)
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Post by novaraptor on May 14, 2015 10:02:41 GMT -6
Good to hear that you are back up and running (mostly). Probably going to turn out to be a terrific ride once you kill the gremlins. Frustration can usually only be beaten by taking a break for awhile, and returning another day. Best of fortune and dry roads to you..
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