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Post by jun on Jul 28, 2014 20:15:45 GMT -6
Bashan - stator unplugged from the main harness, white and yellow together 5.2vac 4000rpm. White to ground 40vac 4000rpm and white same as the yellow at 4000rpm
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Post by Alleyoop on Jul 28, 2014 20:25:32 GMT -6
Those Stator numbers are really low at high rpms 30-40Vac should be at idle.
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Post by jun on Jul 28, 2014 20:30:53 GMT -6
Alley,
At idle both yellow and white are 20-22vac fluctuates. Is my setup compatible with 11 pole stator if i will upgrade? Do i have to change the reg and cdi too?? Some forums that i been reading some people say at idle the white and yellow are atleast 20vac somewhere around there..it is confusing really lol
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Post by Bashan on Jul 28, 2014 20:50:08 GMT -6
First of all calm down and scrap your plans to set fire to your scooter. Sometimes it takes a while to work through these things. Alley is right, those values do seem kind of low but one thing that stands out to me is that the white and yellow are exactly the same which is consistant with your wiring diagram. There is no center tap. So this is a bit of a diffferent animal than we are used to. I agree I'd like John to look at this and see what he thinks about this stator. I'm also going to swing the chicken and bring in the Arkie. So hang tough, we'll work this out. Rich
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Post by jun on Jul 28, 2014 21:12:00 GMT -6
Sounds good guys! Thank you verymuch for your endless effort to help the ones in need..when i turn the ignition on with the battery hooked up brake light and head lights turn on. Same thing when the motor is running and the battery is diconected the lights are still working but dim. I blew my turn signal relay over revving it without a battery which is a stupid mistake lol.never again. Hope the gurus can come up with something for me...
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Post by Alleyoop on Jul 28, 2014 21:15:43 GMT -6
So battery diconnected the headlights and all lights are working so that means they are fed from the stator and not the battery. Now on my trike everything is DC off the battery, I can turn off all lighting on my trike, I can just turn the key on and put on all the lighting on. The only thing my R/R does is charge the battery. Alleyoop
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Post by jun on Jul 28, 2014 21:18:12 GMT -6
Headlights disconnected it seems it is charging the battery very slowly 1v every 5secs evrytime i rev it to about 4000rpm. As soon as i connected the headlights oh boy battery reading spirals down slowly. Brand new battery a week old. Duralast etx9
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Post by jun on Jul 28, 2014 21:26:08 GMT -6
Alley,
Yes, when scooter is running without the battery all lights are on but super dim, once i connected the battery all lights goes super bright.
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Post by Alleyoop on Jul 28, 2014 21:33:25 GMT -6
The wires from your stator what color are they and how many? and the plug how many plugs and wires on each plug.
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Post by jun on Jul 28, 2014 21:39:26 GMT -6
Main plug from the stator there is 3 wires green white and yellow, then two wires that are bullet type connector one is white/blue and the other one is red/ black so total of 5 wires coming out of the stator.
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Post by JR on Jul 28, 2014 21:40:24 GMT -6
I did find this which would make sense with his setup. That 3-phase setup and is not applicable. I also don't know why everyone is saying his stator voltages are low, typical 8-pole stator output readings:
If I haven't missed it the words "check the grounds" has not came up. With the 55W bulbs no matter if it came with it or not if the least little thing such as :
Dirty plug connection Bad or loose ground wire Corroded dimmer switch Auto choke wires corroded pinched wire
the charging system will fall below needed voltage to keep the battery charged. With everything perfect and 55W bulbs and a good battery one can only expect around 13 volts to the battery with the lights on.
He said it was a 07 model, time to go through the wiring, and do a complete except headlights of course LED bulb change out, if he has two tail light bulbs he will gain around .5 volts by changing them alone.
JR
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Post by jun on Jul 28, 2014 21:45:51 GMT -6
JR,
I already inspected all the connections and grounds they look good no visible corossion. Tested all wires with continuity and all came out good. Not unless i missed something which is i made sure every single wire i checked..one wire actually broke, it is the black wire that goes to the negative terminal of the battery and put a new wire for it
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Post by JR on Jul 28, 2014 21:50:37 GMT -6
Dimmer switch and auto choke? The auto choke hooks directly to the R/R feed wire from the stator, unplug it and check your voltage.
Headlight bulb sockets, did you check them for corrosion? Tail light bulb sockets? Corroded sockets and bad grounds to these will cause voltage loss, engine grounded?
JR
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Post by JR on Jul 28, 2014 21:55:09 GMT -6
Lastly here is one that gets past everybody "sometimes" Brake light? Turn the key on and see if the brake light is on even squeeze each brake handle. Sometime a brake light switch will close and people just think the tail light is on when actually the brake light is on all the time with the tail light, if so then you're dropping the charging voltage a lot.
JR
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Post by jun on Jul 28, 2014 22:17:48 GMT -6
Brake light have 1 bulb and yes it is working alright. When i turn key on the brake light turns on, when i hit the brake levers the breaklight goes bright. All bulb sockets looks good and no corrosion at all..turn signals and all. Headlights bulb and sockets looks good too no corossion. Now i unplugged the light green wire from the regulator that goes to the auto choke and it did speed up the charging of the battery a bit, with the headlights unplugged. Now im getting 12.82vdc from the battery and slowly climbing up. But when i disconect the red wire with the fuse from the battery and test it, red probe to the red wire and black probe to the negative wire that goes to the ground i am getting 3.5vdc with the motor running
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