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Post by jerryscript on Apr 13, 2015 0:02:44 GMT -6
I just crossed the 1250 mile mark after my ride today through my favorite parts of town to ride in. I wanted to share my thoughts, and a wholehearted recommendation for one of the 16" wheeled models.
I started looking for a new scooter towards the end of last year. I started a new job that has me working at various locations around the valley, and was looking to move up to a 150cc. I had always liked the look of the 16" models, but couldn't find many posts relating to performance, though I found many warning about difficulty finding parts.
I started searching for parts before ordering the scooter, and was happy to find that more parts dealers are carrying parts for the BN157QMJ-3. I've found a half dozen dealers with parts, and between them I'm confident I can get anything unique to this engine, and even a complete replacement engine if needed. Even the unique CVT parts are more easily found these days. After measuring the engine stud spacing, I'm happy to find most BBKs will work as well.
Performance of my stock scooter has been very good. Take off at half throttle leaves cars in my mirrors, and cruising 45-55 at 3/4 throttle leaves enough extra throttle when needed, and keeps me at the head of the pack when riding around the valley. I've had it to just over 70mph on the freeway for short periods, and the 16" wheels give a smooth stable ride at all speeds. The taller wheels and different CVT and final drive gears give the 16" wheeled 150cc models about 15mph more stock than standard 157QMJ models. I plan on upgrading to the 61mm NCY BBK this summer, with appropriate sliders to tune the CVT I hope to top 80mph with a bit of throttle to spare. My variator shows more than 3/8" unused at the edge, so I'm pretty confidentconfident I can get there.
The 16" wheels and size of the scooter give it more of a small motorcycle look and feel. It is no where near as nimble as my 50cc short case with 10" wheels, it turns much slower, but leans better in turns. Riding over a manhole cover with 16" wheels is nothing compared to the spine jarring jolts I experience on my 10" wheeled scooter, and the adjustable dual rear shocks make it tunable for me alone or with a passenger with a quick turn of the adjusters.
So if you are on the fence between a 150cc and something larger, but are not looking to tour the country on it, I would highly recommend getting one of the 16" wheeled 150cc models. At around $1500-2000 depending on where you purchase it, you will get the most bang for your buck, and have a ride that gets constant compliments! BTW- the dark blue paint job on my model is beautiful!
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Post by dmartin95 on Apr 13, 2015 7:10:38 GMT -6
parts for the BN157QMJ-3. After measuring the engine stud spacing, I'm happy to find most BBKs will work as well. If you measured the stud spacing, what did it turn out to be? 54mm or 57mm?
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Post by cyborg on Apr 13, 2015 7:18:12 GMT -6
Nice,,,, sounds great,,,
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Post by jerryscript on Apr 13, 2015 9:21:18 GMT -6
2.25" across, 3" diagonal stud spacing.
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Post by dmartin95 on Apr 13, 2015 11:07:12 GMT -6
2.25 = 57.15....
So, the 3rd rendition of ZNEN's GY6 150cc, is a b-case motor after all.
Sweet.
Why are you picking the 61mm NCY kit? Is that the 61mm that doesn't require boring of the case? Got a link?
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Post by jerryscript on Apr 13, 2015 18:47:10 GMT -6
Those measurements are at the center of the bolts, edge of bolts would be 54mm or so, ironic and could confuse people, definitely has me confused. I may take a ride over to Scrappy's and measure a couple of their heads to get to the bottom of this once and for all. I can tell you that the BN139QMB has standard stud spacing, but a different stock head (still takes standard head replacements fine, but rocker arms have to be switched).
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Post by dmartin95 on Apr 14, 2015 6:18:46 GMT -6
Those measurements are at the center of the bolts, edge of bolts would be 54mm or so, ironic and could confuse people, definitely has me confused. I may take a ride over to Scrappy's and measure a couple of their heads to get to the bottom of this once and for all. I can tell you that the BN139QMB has standard stud spacing, but a different stock head (still takes standard head replacements fine, but rocker arms have to be switched). IF you have 57mm center to center, it's a b-case.... I currently own a couple of Taida engines that are b-case and I have personally measured them..... I also have a scrappy 161QMK, b-case also.... I'll tell ya where the confusion comes from: It's the BN that ZNEN attaches to their engine stamps. I have 2 ZNEN engines that are stamped with BN157QMJ, a short case and a long case.... I thought I had b-cases... After many hours of research I learned that "BN" was just an identifier for a ZNEN engines. However, I also learned that the engines with a -3 is a new type of GY6 engine that was designed to accommodate the larger 16" wheels. The information I could not find is wether it's a "b" or an "a" case... However, If you measured 57mm center to center, the issue is put to rest because it is in fact a b case.
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Post by jerryscript on Apr 15, 2015 0:18:38 GMT -6
Those measurements are at the center of the bolts, edge of bolts would be 54mm or so, ironic and could confuse people, definitely has me confused. I may take a ride over to Scrappy's and measure a couple of their heads to get to the bottom of this once and for all. I can tell you that the BN139QMB has standard stud spacing, but a different stock head (still takes standard head replacements fine, but rocker arms have to be switched). IF you have 57mm center to center, it's a b-case.... I currently own a couple of Taida engines that are b-case and I have personally measured them..... I also have a scrappy 161QMK, b-case also.... I'll tell ya where the confusion comes from: It's the BN that ZNEN attaches to their engine stamps. I have 2 ZNEN engines that are stamped with BN157QMJ, a short case and a long case.... I thought I had b-cases... After many hours of research I learned that "BN" was just an identifier for a ZNEN engines. However, I also learned that the engines with a -3 is a new type of GY6 engine that was designed to accommodate the larger 16" wheels. The information I could not find is wether it's a "b" or an "a" case... However, If you measured 57mm center to center, the issue is put to rest because it is in fact a b case. The BN stands for Benneng engines, a brand Znen created in 1999, here is Znen's history up to 2010, though it's mostly self praise: www.znen.com/history.asp
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Post by scooter2 on Apr 15, 2015 14:50:58 GMT -6
IF you have 57mm center to center, it's a b-case.... I currently own a couple of Taida engines that are b-case and I have personally measured them..... I also have a scrappy 161QMK, b-case also.... I'll tell ya where the confusion comes from: It's the BN that ZNEN attaches to their engine stamps. I have 2 ZNEN engines that are stamped with BN157QMJ, a short case and a long case.... I thought I had b-cases... After many hours of research I learned that "BN" was just an identifier for a ZNEN engines. However, I also learned that the engines with a -3 is a new type of GY6 engine that was designed to accommodate the larger 16" wheels. The information I could not find is wether it's a "b" or an "a" case... However, If you measured 57mm center to center, the issue is put to rest because it is in fact a b case. The BN stands for Benneng engines, a brand Znen created in 1999, here is Znen's history up to 2010, though it's mostly self praise: www.znen.com/history.aspJust a tip for people measuring bolts on center. Put your calipers on one bolt, then hit the zero. Then measure around the bolts for a center to center measurement. This will subtract the bolt diameter for you. (Half of each bolt) Also works on measuring hole centers as long as the holes are the same diameter. Measure inside a hole, hit the zero, then measure to the outside of both holes.
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Post by jerryscript on Apr 17, 2015 10:18:17 GMT -6
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Post by cyborg on Apr 17, 2015 10:19:35 GMT -6
Nice
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Post by dmartin95 on Apr 17, 2015 12:25:30 GMT -6
That's cool. It's nice to know for 100% sure you have a b-case. If you ever get froggy and want to build that motor into a 232cc using Taida products, let me know. I am an official Taida re-seller and stock Taida's entire line-up. 67mm plus an 8.8mm stroker will make that motor scream!
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Post by cyborg on Apr 17, 2015 13:00:28 GMT -6
OOoooo i smell a build next winter!!!!!!!!!!!!!! wih a 4 valve head,,,,ouch
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Post by dmartin95 on Apr 17, 2015 18:54:49 GMT -6
OOoooo i smell a build next winter!!!!!!!!!!!!!! wih a 4 valve head,,,,ouch Yes, 4 valve goes into everything I build. My current build is a Taida 232cc. 67mm piston, +8.8 stroke, 4 valve, DR Pulley HIT clutch and variator with sliders, with ecotrons EFI... I am working direct with Fanny Syong from Taida and Brian Zhang from Ecotrons. I plan to run in this years twist'n gone.
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Post by cyborg on Apr 17, 2015 20:03:46 GMT -6
Niceness
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