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Post by scooter2 on Sept 6, 2015 6:50:26 GMT -6
I ended up buying that carb on amazon with upgraded jets as well as a new air filter that plugs directly into the carb instead of having a pipe lead to a filter box like it does on stock. In terms of valves getting tight, could you guys point me in the right direction of how to fix that? Search youtube for "adjust scooter valves". It's pretty easy once you get the idea. If you have a manual, you can look up the proper gaps. Usually .003" - .004" |
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Post by scooter2 on Aug 31, 2015 22:28:34 GMT -6
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Post by scooter2 on Aug 29, 2015 22:19:02 GMT -6
A member of itistheride posted this picture of a carb with "an extra nipple". Very few carbs I have seen online have this nipple in this location. He says it's not the fuel line or a vacuum line, and not the vent or drain line. The only thing I have found online other than fuel, vacuum, vent, and drain lines on carbs is an "oil inlet" line. Is that what this is? s16.postimg.org/6yhf4hh4h/2015_08_29_20_36_32_HDR.jpg |
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Bali scoot
by: scooter2 - Apr 26, 2015 8:18:33 GMT -6
Post by scooter2 on Apr 26, 2015 8:18:33 GMT -6
I just updated the Normal Reply posting page and it how has a Insert Image button that works just like the one in the Quick Reply posting box. JR Does the reply button method of posting notify users of a reply? |
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Post by scooter2 on Apr 20, 2015 20:18:56 GMT -6
You spent WHAT on a carb? Braddah, I got some of those special $100 government pencils for sale... JB Weld melts with high heat. Probably not the best choice for a muffler mount. If those are the ones that write upside down and in space, put me down for a couple!  |
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Post by scooter2 on Apr 17, 2015 15:54:59 GMT -6
You be running the honda shaft in that assembly correct? I have no idea. I'm hoping the Honda Helix and cfmoto Fashion parts are interchangeable. |
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Post by scooter2 on Apr 17, 2015 15:53:31 GMT -6
Thank you. Do you know how to remove the rubber bearing seal without damaging it? That's a super nice selection of parts, including body panels and decals. A lot of good prices too, but they want 570 dollars for a carb? Anybody want to buy a couple of used cfmoto carbs? |
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Post by scooter2 on Apr 15, 2015 20:06:07 GMT -6
Yikes....I think I might have ordered too heavy of slider weights....ordered 24 gram....weighed my oem rollers are 22 grams....I guess I was thinking the rollers were 24 or 25 gram from the factory from reading other posts....should've weighed them first...then ordered. I wanted to get a slight increase in top end....right now I'm at 60mph wot on my phone gps speedometer app....I'm 180lbs or so...I ride 2 up often so I'm worried about losing my acceleration. Anybody have any luck drilling these sliders out....uni bit...drill bit? You could try them out and see. A drill will be difficult. They tend to grab, plus you won't know how much metal to remove unless you calc it out. www.sequoia-brass-copper.com/weight-calc.html If you use a drill, a vice might come in handy, but you risk bending the sliders. You can dull the corners of the leading edges of the drill to reduce grabbing. a 3/8" X 1" tube of brass with a .010 wall thickness would be almost two grams, so if you used a bit that was .020 bigger than your hole, I'm guessing you'd be close, but it's a WAG because I have no idea how wide a slider is or how big around your hole is. A dremel might be easier but unless you cut them all evenly, you could get some imbalance. A reamer would be another option. Just be careful. Any imbalance could put unnecessary wear on your system. I'm not 100% sure, but I think a 0.1 gram weight imbalance at 7,500 rpm on a 150 sized variator exerts a force of about a half a pound. Is that a lot? I don't know. |
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Post by scooter2 on Apr 15, 2015 14:55:58 GMT -6
Hi everybody!..I have a 2013 tao tao lancer 150 w/ fish eye headlights..1 is high beam, one is low beam..does anyone know how to make both operate as hi/low beams? I live in a state where ppl don't c scooters or motorcycles so i thought if I had 2 lights blazin in their face they might take notice.. Lol..both bulbs r 12v 35 w..could I replace w/ 1157 like cars have? Any feedback WOULD B MUCH APPRECIATED.. I put LED strips on the sides of my bike. People just see headlights and maybe can't judge the distance properly. Some amber lines on the bike let them know it's not just a far away headlight or street light. I was fooled not too long ago myself. I saw a bunch of cars coming and started to pull out only to realize there was a bike with one big and two small headlights ahead of the pack. It made me realize why people don't seem to see us. To me his lights looked like they were in with the cars. I didn't see his bike, just lights, and I could see cars, so my eyes said, "those are the car lights". I'm not saying I'm safe from car drivers, but it sure seems like a lot less cars are trying to pull out in front of me now. |
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Post by scooter2 on Apr 15, 2015 14:50:58 GMT -6
IF you have 57mm center to center, it's a b-case.... I currently own a couple of Taida engines that are b-case and I have personally measured them..... I also have a scrappy 161QMK, b-case also.... I'll tell ya where the confusion comes from: It's the BN that ZNEN attaches to their engine stamps. I have 2 ZNEN engines that are stamped with BN157QMJ, a short case and a long case.... I thought I had b-cases... After many hours of research I learned that "BN" was just an identifier for a ZNEN engines. However, I also learned that the engines with a -3 is a new type of GY6 engine that was designed to accommodate the larger 16" wheels. The information I could not find is wether it's a "b" or an "a" case... However, If you measured 57mm center to center, the issue is put to rest because it is in fact a b case. The BN stands for Benneng engines, a brand Znen created in 1999, here is Znen's history up to 2010, though it's mostly self praise: www.znen.com/history.aspJust a tip for people measuring bolts on center. Put your calipers on one bolt, then hit the zero. Then measure around the bolts for a center to center measurement. This will subtract the bolt diameter for you. (Half of each bolt) Also works on measuring hole centers as long as the holes are the same diameter. Measure inside a hole, hit the zero, then measure to the outside of both holes. |
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Post by scooter2 on Apr 15, 2015 14:41:10 GMT -6
I am not liking these AGM batteries. I had a few errands to do today. It being a nice day I decided to do a little sight seeing also. Put about a hundy on the magnum then decided to do my errands. So I stopped at first Place and when I came out to leave the battery was dead. There is an advance auto about a block from where I was, so I took battery in to have it checked. They put it on there little tester and then told me it was dead and needed charged,Duh! Tester showed a voltage of 11.44 volts and 56 cca. Expected charge time 0f 40- 50 min at 40 amp. I didn't have that long to wait, so I just I bought a new battery. I paid the core charge of $10 bucks, brought the old battery home and put in on charger and it goes pop as soon as I plugged it. Now this is the second one of these type of batteries that have done this to me. I am going to check the charging system tomorrow, didn't have time today. The saga continues. Now my 50cc also has one of these batteries in it and it is also not charging. so will have to check it as well. both of these scooters were started once a week or so through the winter months and ridden occasionally. I Rode both of them yesterday for about a half hour each. Now it is hard to believe that both of these batteries would go dead at the same time or the charging system went bad on two different scooters at the same time. has any body else had trouble with agm batteries not charging? I will probably order regular lead acid batteries. all the auto stores carry in the sizes I need is agm's. I also will be adding a spare battery box on the magnum. Pushing this 600 lb three wheel beast sucks, also I don't really want to wait on a jump either. At least the 50 cc has a kick start. I'm done ranting for now. Roy Hi Roy, I'm not sure what brand of battery you're using, but I use AGM motobatt batteries and never had an issue in over year. There are many knock off's, generic and "sealed types" of batteries that people try and pass off as AGM.... Another really good battery is ballistic batteries. Pretty expensive but IMO, they're THE best. I have two MotoBatt AGMs and they work fine. What's odd is that I'm told I should charge them in AGM mode on the charger, which I have, but they charge fine on the scoots which also use lead acids.  The only difference I read about the two types of batteries is that the AGMs are supposed to charge to a lesser voltage. One site says: "As with all gelled and sealed units, AGM batteries are sensitive to overcharging. These batteries can be charged to 2.40V/cell (and higher) without problem; however, the float charge should be reduced to between 2.25 and 2.30V/cell (summer temperatures may require lower voltages). Automotive charging systems for flooded lead acid often have a fixed float voltage setting of 14.40V (2.40V/cell), and a direct replacement with a sealed unit could spell trouble by exposing the battery to undue overcharge on a long drive. " So the AGM can be charged to 2.4X6=14.4v, but the float charge should be reduced to 2.2X6 and 2.3X6=13.5 to 13.8v. Maybe they are being overcharged? |
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Post by scooter2 on Apr 13, 2015 8:58:39 GMT -6
The brown wire gets it's juice when you turn the KEY ON it usually makes contact with a black wire which in turn goes into a plug and feeds the system from there. Alleyoop I'll have to check that.. May be that contact. Here are my probs right now.. Tail light doesn't work (brake light does) - No voltage on Brown wire gauge and instrumentation lights do not work (Tach and fuel gauge do work though, and the light/hi-beam switch has a momentary switch built in labeled 'Passing' that when pressed, lights up the hi-beam indicator on the instrument panel) Turn Signals don't work - All bulbs and sockets are good but lights don't work at all. No flashing, no staying on, etc. Not sure about the headlight and High-beam lights as both were blown so I've got some ordered. Also decided to go ahead and order a new rectifier and turn signal relay just to make sure they are good. Looking at some wiring diagrams, it looks like the brown wire is more or less directly connected to the light switch. Makes me wonder if it's my left handlebar light controls that's mucking me up.. Anyone have a good blown up wiring diagram for a 50cc GY6 style scooter like the Tao Tao, Jonway, etc? All the ones I've found are really small and hard to see everything properly.. If the image is in photobucket, use the + button on the photobucket console to enlarge the picture. If it is a gif or jpg then right click it and open it in a new tab. If you mouse over it and it shows a + symbol then click it. If you need it larger, hold down the ctrl key and press + on your keyboard as many times as it takes to get it as big as you want it. ctrl- to shrink it back down. Also works in PDFs and web pages. Very useful for all around web browsing. |
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Post by scooter2 on Apr 13, 2015 8:51:09 GMT -6
After draining it, put the drain plug back in and open the fill hole above it. Add till it starts to overflow out of the hole. Plug the hole and you're good to go. To the person you are talking to: If you're like me, you may wonder when it's overfilled. When it's not full, it will dribble out a little and stop. When it's good and overfilled it will pour out and keep going for a few seconds or more. Then you know it's really full. |
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Post by scooter2 on Apr 12, 2015 8:00:30 GMT -6
Hello, everybody! We've recently acquired a new addition to our scooter arsenal, a 2009 Hyosung Sense (2-stroke). And so far the biggest issue we have had with it is that it is leaking oil quite badly, going through almost all of its oil within a 10 mile ride.... All the oil is dripping out and hitting the exhaust, as well as getting all over the underside of the scooter. We cannot seem to pinpoint the leak. Anybody have any experience with these bikes? They're not easy to take apart, the plastic seems to be of very high quality and the seat bucket is actually welded in place.. Any suggestions? Also, does anyone know how they scooters are restricted? We hit 35 MPH and the motor will not go above that You have to take it apart and look at it. My first scooter blew oil all over the engine bay and used up a quart in no time. After I adjusted the valves, it stopped blowing oil out of the valve cover. I am guessing my exhaust valve was open at the wrong time and was pressurizing the valve cover. |
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Post by scooter2 on Apr 10, 2015 17:10:50 GMT -6
Ok, so this is mostly about full sized bikes, but scooters are included in here. If you have an account with them, they have scooter ratings as well. But there is some great info for all riders. Consumer ReportsI like the sound of that Harley electric! |
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