No start. No anything. By olivertwisted (Read 9,141 times)

[olivertwisted]

I did the continuity test (Pages 3/4) for the kill switch from the link you provided ink and there was no continuity at the B/W wire, at all. If I followed correctly, the kill switch is bad. I'm going to open it up and see if I can spot and fix the problem and re-test it

[olivertwisted]

WHOA, NELLIE!

[olivertwisted]

Mui bettah ! And now, I do get continuity from the B/W wire to frame (Although, there is some resistance (The probes touching each other read 003 , where the wire to frame reads 008) . The same B/W wire at the CDI to the back of the kill switch has no resistance.

[olivertwisted]

Ok. I've drained my battery down to under 8 V's. I'm going to have to dig out my old car charger tomorrow to charge it back up to proceed.

[cyborg]

Well well now that is a bunch better,,,you had to know with this bike being so close to the ocean that all connections and surfaces look like that,,,,I'd be checking all spade and or push connections as well,,,everything is in a state of decay ,,,might as well do it now,,,he!! You've got $5000 of labor in it what's another $1000? At least you'll know that every single thing has been touched

[jct842]

Every plug on there, in fact at the end of every wire the connection is crimped. What that means is that every crimped connection is a possible bad connection. On some of the plugs where there might be 4 or 5 pins that means there are 8 or 9 possibles! There are a few people here who have soldered each and every one. Not saying you will have to go to the extremes but it could happen. (I think JR said he did his) Owning a small soldering iron and knowing how to use it is cheap insurance. I noticed a couple days ago walmart had several different irons in the auto/electrical dept along with their push on connectors and switches but failed to check prices as I have irons in the shop. If you should buy one do not get lead free solder, it is bad news and hard to use.

[Alleyoop]

WOW!! that killswitch looks nasty , I would bet the light switchs on the left handbar are in the same shape.
My question is what you say is the CDI in the previous page normally the CDI's look like this

But to find the CDI follow the COIL WIRE(SPARK PLUG WIRE) back and it will go to the COIL.
The COIL will have one wire or two, if two one is ground the other COMES FROM THE CDI.
And when you find it take a picture of it the wiring AND COLORS OF THE WIRES PLUGGED INTO IT.

6 PIN CDI: MOST ONLY HAVE 1 GREEN GROUND WIRE ON THE BOTTOM OF THE 4 PLUG:
YOU CAN SEE THE KILLWIRE BLACK/WHITE TOP OF THE TWO PLUG.

[olivertwisted]

Good morning, my sunshines!

Right, cyborg ?! The savings... LOL! Actually, what that was in both of the switches is crud, leaves and dirt, mulch basically, that I think got in there when the bike was still outside over the first 3 months. We had a crazy storm about a month ago ( OMG, I can't believe that I've been working on this for 4 months now!)and the container with all of the switches went to the ground and they ended up in a pool of gunk ! When I cleaned this one up, the gunk just flaked out of there so easily. But, I do have a set of new switches coming and I think they'll be here tomorrow.


jct842 thanks ! In fact, I do have a solder station I am a vaper (The one thing that finally got me off of cigarettes 3 years ago next month) and wanted to try my hand at building my own devices so, last year I finally bought one. But, there have been so many times over the years that I needed one for just that onelittle connection, it's amazing that I held out so long.

Alleyoop , I know, nastyyyyyy , huh ?
It was mostly mulch in there but, it cleaned up well and quickly.
About the CDI (Pics below), I did find it last night and was testing it when, the battery on my scoot went dead so, I've got to charge that up. I hope it will, I read last night that AGM batteries don't want to charge after they've gone dead. It's testing at just above 10 V's right now. I have my old battery charger that is capable of charging at 2 amps and 10 amps. Would you say, it's good, as a 120 CCA battery to charge it at 10 Amps ? From the formulas that I read last night, it will take all day to charge but, safety is what I want to be sure of. (EDIT: I just re-read a little on the charging after some sleep and see that the formula referred to AMP HOURS, not cranking amps so, cool, at least it wont take all day! Also, it looks like at 2 amps it will take about 5-6 hours. )

Here's the famous CDI and its wires.
I wasn't getting a continuity reading from the KILL wire , then I cleaned the kill switch and I think that I was getting continuity back to the CDI with the key in the right position (According to the PDF that you linked me to) but, I was double checking my readings when the battery went dead and I got distracted from the CDI.

[Alleyoop]

COOL, that is your basic AC CDI. You should get continuity with the key off, then turn the KEY ON and kill it with the KILLSWITCH and you should get conintinuity KEY ON KILLSWITCH IN THE KILL POSITION.

The killswitch is for emergencey it is right by your hand as your riding and you can kill the motor at a moments time with your thumb. That is for safety so you do not have to take your hands off the handlebars reaching to turn the KEY to the OFF position.
Alleyoop

[Alleyoop]

About the battery 10amps should charge it withing 3-4 hours 2 amps over night more like 6-8 hours.

[olivertwisted]

Thanks! I'll re-check it .

On charging the battery, is my assessment correct to charge it at 2 amps is the way to go?

[Alleyoop]

Yes, trickle charging works best 2amps gives it a good deep charge that will hold up better.
Alleyoop

[olivertwisted]

2 amps it is, then! Thanks!
I'll let ya know what I get on this CDI in a few minutes

[Alleyoop]

If you are getting spark at the SPARK PLUG, then you know the STATOR is good powering the CDI the PICK UP COIL is good telling the CDI when to release the voltage to the COIL and you also then know your COIL is good.

So take the spark plug out or just take the boot cap off the one in the motor IF you have a spare spark plug stick it in the bootcap and hold it by the rubber or Plastic CAP on the VALVE COVER and turn the key on squeeze the brake and hit the start button and see if the SPARK PLUG IS FIRING a nice blueish spark. IF SO all is good on that part of the system.
ALleyoop

[olivertwisted]

Okayyyy, the battery is charging at 2 amps and the connectors at the battery, I clamped together for a closed circuit. The CDI B/W wire does give me continuity in both of those states Alleyoop. I assume that this is the "Run" position and what I have assumed, while testing.