stranded, temporarily anyway. By olivertwisted (Read 6,412 times)

[olivertwisted]

Yes, let's hope ! I think we have all exuded patience here. It should be here on Monday

[olivertwisted]

AWWW!!! It wasn't the coil. The new one is in, no difference.

So, on to a new CDI. So, 2 questions;
As long as the CDI that I choose is a 6 pin for 150CC GY6, I'm golden, yes?

If I do end up having to replace the stator, can the flywheel nut come off with my impact wrench? Or do I have to buy another stinkin' tool, lol!?

[olivertwisted]

Apr 20, 2016 20:03:59 GMT -6 Alleyoop said:

I would splice in the TOGGLE switch you have to the Killwire by the CDI. Then start the scoot and using the toggle switch to make sure disconnect the kill wire ground from the cdi and see if the motor still dies. THAT Will eliminate the CDI being accidently grounded.

Ok, in addition to the questions in my previous post, I need to understand this clearly.

Splice the left side (as pictured, left side is "Open" position?)  pole onto the killwire itself, the other to frame ground, effectively "Replacing" or circumventing  the killswitch, to let the bike run, and see if the bike cuts out in that case?






OR am I to just disconnect the B/W killswitch wire from the CDI altogether, and wire this switch to the contact spade on the CDI where the B/W wire normally resides, and the other wire from my toggle to frame ground ?

[Alleyoop]

Apr 25, 2016 15:47:53 GMT -6 olivertwisted said:

AWWW!!! It wasn't the coil. The new one is in, no difference.

So, on to a new CDI. So, 2 questions;
As long as the CDI that I choose is a 6 pin for 150CC GY6, I'm golden, yes?

If I do end up having to replace the stator, can the flywheel nut come off with my impact wrench? Or do I have to buy another stinkin' tool, lol!?

AH, BUMMER about the COIL, I would of THUNK getting a weak spark would be the COIL nothing else.

The CDI is a 6 PIN all you have to make sure it is a AC CDI and NOT a DC cdi but it will say if it is a DC CDI because not to many scoots require a DC CDI.

Yes the FLYWHEEL NUT can come off with an IMPACT WRENCH "BUT" you then need to get the flywheel OFF and you many need a FLYWHEEL PULLER if you cannot get it off with prying it off or some other puller you may have around.

[olivertwisted]

Thanks much, Alleyoop. I know, you'da THUNK it, right?! I just want a stinkin' RIDE! LOL!

So, I'll focus on the killswitch and CDI for now.

I edited and added Q's above to understand the test for the killswitch test. Would ya have a looksie on those for me?

[Alleyoop]

I would splice you TOGGLE Switch near the CDI, so that means you would have TWO KILLSWITCHS. MY thinking is I do not trust the killswitch up front and or the ignition that may at times ground out the CDI. SO my thinking is if you splice using the toggle near the cdi then you can cut the continuity from the killswitch and ignition by hitting the toggle switch and TEST if then the sucker gets spark. Like I said I am a little leary of it may be getting grounded. IF it tests all ok well that at least eliminates accidental grounding out the cdi and you can either leave the toggle switch spliced in and hide gturn it on to make it harder for someone to steal it.
Alleyoop

[olivertwisted]

I got ya Alley, on why I should try it out but, remember how "Donkey-headed" I am about electrical? I dont easily conceptualize and I'm trying to picture exactly how and where to connect up. Got my switch all ready to go, I think. But I'm not understanding where each wire of my toggle switch wires should contact .

[Alleyoop]

You cut the killwire and connect each half to each toggle terminal. So you can OPEN the connection to the CDI or CLOSE it to make contact with both sides of the killwire to kill the motor.

What we just want to make sure is that the CDI is not accidentally being grounded is all.
So to test HAVE the KILLSWITCH ON at the handle then you can use the toggle to kill it or not. What we want is to have the motor running and see if having the toggle not making contact keeps it running. IF so then we know something up front is accidentally grounding the CDI.

But here is the thing YOU ARE getting spark but you say it is weak not blueish which I would of THUNK it was the COIL going south. Now the CDI feeds voltage to the coil and it maybe that the CDI is not producing enough voltage to the coil. But it also could be the stator going south.

But you can test the STATORs ouput at idle it should put out around 20-30VAC then when the rpms are around 4k or so it should put out 50+VAC.
DO NOT KNOW WHICH STATOR YOU HAVE SINGLE OR 3 PHASE:

HERE IS VIDEO IF SINGLE PHASE: YOU HAVE 1 YELLOW WIRE


HERE IS VIDEO FOR 3 PHASE: YOU HAVE 3 YELLOW WIRES

[olivertwisted]

Thanks, gotchya, gotchya, both leads "Inline" . I think, what threw me was the mention of being sure to disconnect the killwire at the CDI. It didn't register with me, that you meant temporarilyso, I was trying to imagine a scenario where the switch would do any good

Yes, when I have spark, it's shortly blue at the plug but mostly orange the rest of it's travel. So intermittent, my scoot is having hot flashes !!!
Thanks, for the vids. I'll watch em and get to testing this afternoon. I have a new clamp meter coming in the mail that should make this easier on me (Not having 3-4 arms and all). I have about 4 of the free Harbor Freight meters. Nice to have but, hard to work with, quite often.
Now, I remember that my rectifier does have 3 yellow wires. If that's any indication, I have a 3 stage stator.
How in the world do you get ANYTHING else done, Alleyoop ?!

[Alleyoop]

HAHAHAHA, RETIREMENT IS GREAT, I try not to do a DAMN THING might strain my pinky, lawn service, sprinkler system hire and pay m . Winter comes around rent a house for 2-3 months in Florida with a heated pool and suck down some suds LIFE IS GOOD.
Alleyoop

[olivertwisted]

I'm SO glad to hear that! Live LONG and LARGE, Alleyoop!

And hey, the 3 yellow wires on my rectifier prompts me the question; Do they tell me which stator (Number of poles) I would have if, I just want to order a new one, get to work getting the old one outwhile it's shipping, and be done with it if the killswitch isnt causing this ?

[Alleyoop]

Apr 26, 2016 15:34:25 GMT -6 olivertwisted said:

I'm SO glad to hear that! Live LONG and LARGE, Alleyoop!

And hey, the 3 yellow wires on my rectifier prompts me the question; Do they tell me which stator (Number of poles) I would have if, I just want to order a new one, get to work getting the old one outwhile it's shipping, and be done with it if the killswitch isnt causing this ?

Thanks the thing is plan for it and how you want to live

YOU JUST (LOL) you don't think they make it easy on us poor slobs !!! It could be any number but if 3 phase it is most likely an 11 pole stator:
scootertuning.ca/fr/ignition/480001-gy6-11-coil-stator-3-phase-ac-cdi-157qmj.html

[olivertwisted]

Oh heck NO! Easy doesn't come to the GOOD folks! Even the hard honest work and best planning doesn't come with a guarantee so, I'm just glad that it worked well for one of the good folks!

I'll have a look at that link.
I just got done splicing in that switch and running it idling for longer than it had before (20 mins or so.) so, I was hoping we'd nailed it but, as soon as I rode it up the long driveway, it kept cutting out. I found that there doesn't seem to be a predictable length of time to how quickly it will restart, sometimes after a couple tries, sometimes ya gotta wait a few minutes.
I have to use both kill switches to get it to kill manually with this 2 pole momentary switch at the CDI so, this one wont be staying on there. I can't shut down with the key either so, is a safety hazard. Maybe, my other switch will prove to be good.

[olivertwisted]

The crazy thing now is, I can't get this scoot to die and stay dead now, so that I can check for a still intermittent spark condition! It pretty much starts back up, but is staying running for a shorter and shorter time now, 2-3 minutes instead of 20.

[Alleyoop]

WOW!! OK lets find out if it is ELECTRICAL or FUEL. As soon as it dies OPEN the DRAIN HOSE and see if at LEAST 1 to 1-1/2 oz of fuel come out from the BOWL. It may be as simple as the carb bowl is empty of gas.
Did we try VENTING the gas tank? maybe the GAS TANK is not venting? So you can try just taking the gas cap off and see if it still dies and be ready to open the CArbs Drain to see if there is gas in the bowl.