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Post by blu on Apr 28, 2016 12:10:20 GMT -6
Glad you understand! Not that I'm glad you're all busted up, but you know where I'm coming from. I always grab the front brake before I hit the starter, even though I don't need to, just habit. Been riding a long time, always done it that way.
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Post by blu on May 1, 2016 7:33:27 GMT -6
If you want to bypass it here is how to do it: To disable follow the wire from the sidestand up the frame to the first plug in line. It may be near the battery and frame, Unplug it and fuse the two wires together on the hot side. Hot side= battery side of (plug) wiring. Alleyoop Will this disable the back brake switch too?
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Post by blu on May 1, 2016 13:55:27 GMT -6
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Post by Alleyoop on May 1, 2016 14:25:56 GMT -6
So you have a foot brake on your scoot?? If so he said it worked for him! I have been on 3 forums and this is the first I have seen with that mod so I do not think you will get any input more than what you found. Alleyoop
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Post by Alleyoop on May 1, 2016 14:27:58 GMT -6
The bypass I PUT UP IS ONLY FOR THE A SIDESTAND KILLSWITCH IF your scoot has one that is all.
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Post by blu on May 1, 2016 14:55:23 GMT -6
Yes, foot brake. I don't mind the kick stand needing to be up, it's just having to have the kick stand up AND the rear brake peddle down for it to start. That's really stupid, why not the front brake? If it was just the Chinese that did it, I would understand, but the Japs did it that way and the Chinese copied it to the letter.
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Post by Alleyoop on May 1, 2016 15:07:32 GMT -6
Yea, the CAN AM's are like that you need to put on the FOOT BRAKE because that is all that is on them to start it, which is just for safety, in case for some reason the motor revs up when started, which can happen if for some reason the throttle gets stuck and or fuel injection throttle position sensor goes bonkers.
But if you have a hand front brake why not use that instead of the foot brake or either one to start it. With just a foot brake you have to sit on it to start it with a hand brake you can start it just standing next to it much easier I think. Alleyoop
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Post by blu on May 1, 2016 15:30:29 GMT -6
Poor design decision. At least with the can-am you don't need to balance the thing while you put your foot on the brake. That's been the whole thing, I don't mind the kick stand being up, but to have to balance it with my left foot while I press on the brake with my right foot, that right there introduces other problems. Just plain stupid I tell ya. Harley Davidson always baffled me on some of their design decisions, and I guess it wasn't limited to HD.
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Post by Alleyoop on May 1, 2016 15:43:12 GMT -6
Yep, I totally agree. Alleyoop
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Post by blu on May 1, 2016 16:29:04 GMT -6
Well, I pulled the service panel. I have a plug, second from the right, with all those wires mentioned in the post except the g/y, the g/y does not go to the plug, it just goes straight to the harness. The g/r is in the plug. Not sure if I want to risk it without a wiring diagram. Can't ride it anyway, my back is shot.
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Post by Alleyoop on May 1, 2016 18:01:46 GMT -6
The G/R is from the start button that is the GROUND for the SOLENOID. The G/Y is the live wire that feeds the SOLENOID and STOP LIGHTS, so that means the G/Y wire splits out somewhere else down the line.
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Post by blu on May 1, 2016 18:45:51 GMT -6
I'm lost when it comes to electronics. So does that mean the g/r spliced into the g/y would bi-pass that switch, or would it start fires and burn the thing to the ground?
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Post by blu on Jun 2, 2016 16:04:39 GMT -6
Still looking for a solution. Found this old post. Does it sound right to you folks? After purchasing a service manual, I easily bypassed the brake interlock. Here are the steps: 1) Remove the seat. One bolt. 2) Remove the body center cover. 4 screws accessible from under the seat. 3) Remove the left lower rear cover. 2 screws and 1 phillips bolt. 4) Remover the left side rail. 1 8mm bolt. 5) Remove the left foot peg. 1 12mm bolt. The peg slides out to the side. 6) Remove the left floor mat. 7) Remove the two bolts (10mm, I think) that secure the left floor panel. 8) Lift the left side of the floor panel to reveal the Brake Light/Starter Limit switch. 9) Remove about an eighth inch of insulation from the white/green and green/red wires. There is no need to disconnect anything. 10) Connect these wires together by soldering a short jumper or cross the wired at the stripped locations and solder them together. 11) Replace the panels in the reverse order. This is important because you could be like me and do it many times in the wrong order.
The positive voltage for the starter relay is routed through the brake interlock to the start switch. The ground lead for the relay comes from the side stand and isn't otherwise switched. The negative lead could be grounded by connecting the two wires at the side stand. I have chosen to leave the side stand interlock alone since I believe it is useful.
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Post by blu on Jun 2, 2016 19:15:49 GMT -6
Looks like a winner to me.
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Post by cyborg on Jun 2, 2016 19:48:19 GMT -6
Bingo!!!!
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