Above 30 mph bogging in colder temp By seanstr (Read 9,000 times)

[seanstr]

OK, new fuel filter installed, still bogging. I don't know where to go now.

I've cleaned, I've checked for leaks in vacuum and gas lines.

I've checked that the fuel is getting to carb, i need to take bowl off, start scooter and make sure fuel is getting in bowl.

I didn't clean the line coming in on the carb. I'll do that next.

I checked the diaphragm. I bought new, I'll try to install. I tried moving the needle up. This didn't help.

Tried larger jet, from 110 to 115. Still bogging at 30mph.

Checked for obstructions in air intake, and that air filter is good.


Re checked the valve clearance.

Checked for air leaks around the carb and intake going in to the engine and around the air box, and air intake.

I'm lost. If the diaphragm doesn't fix it and there is no problems at the fuel inlet going to bowl I have no where left to go.

[seanstr]

Replaced diaphragm, but that didn't fit correctly, started bit would allow quick throttle, tried to died immediately. But originally back in.

Sprayed carb cleaner in inlet for fuel to bowl. Cut off works great too.

So, started let warm up again. Readjusted fuel mixture for a lot longer. I'll test tomorrow on way to work.

Lance Cali Classic 125cc. If this don't work carb replacement ideas would be helpful.

[rks]

Even though I replaced my airbox with a K&N cone, at 366 miles, and up jetted to a 115 main at the same time..... my 150cc scoot came stock with a 105 main jet, and ran fine. Your 125cc model, with a stock airbox and exhaust, running a 110 or 115, in my opinion is over jetted. Now if you had a free flowing exhaust, or a K&N type of air filter, a jet in that range would probably work fine. Have you pulled the spark plug yet? A quick look at it will tell you if I am right...or wrong.

[seanstr]

Oct 28, 2016 6:57:41 GMT -6 rks said:

Even though I replaced my airbox with a K&N cone, at 366 miles, and up jetted to a 115 main at the same time..... my 150cc scoot came stock with a 105 main jet, and ran fine. Your 125cc model, with a stock airbox and exhaust, running a 110 or 115, in my opinion is over jetted. Now if you had a free flowing exhaust, or a K&N type of air filter, a jet in that range would probably work fine. Have you pulled the spark plug yet? A quick look at it will tell you if I am right...or wrong.

You are reading my mind or something, I was thinking, I have fuel, and air, I need consistent spark. So I am looking at replacing coil/plug wire. I have a new one but it doesn't fit the spark plug that goes in scooter.

I would need to get a half inch longer or more spark plug or order a new stock replacement from lance dealer which can take a very long time to come in.

I also have 2 spare CDI's, with one being adjustable.

[rks]

This link may help....Carb operation

[seanstr]

I just thought about my coil wire that "doesn't fit".

It's the plastic that goes around the engine only that is stopping the plug wire from getting to spark plug.

I will just cut the plastic a bit away to give it room to get to the plug.

Sorry that I am so stupid.

[seanstr]

Thank you

Oct 28, 2016 7:18:42 GMT -6 rks said:

This link may help....Carb operation

5) Float/Float valve/Float level – Your owner’s manual has the correct level and procedure for calibrating your bike. Here are some symptoms that would indicate the need for float adjustment.

My float looked perfectly level.

A) If float level is too high, the float bowl overflows out the drain hoses, and fuel often blocks the air passages that allow the carb to de-pressurize. This causes a bog, or hiccup over large hits.

B) If float level is too low, the engine starves for fuel off idle, causing a “boooooowang” sound very similar to a pilot jet or air screw set too lean.

I get bogging at 30mph. take off is great.

5) Always check for clogged carb vent lines. Clogged lines will cause hard starting and bogging when the motor is hot. They can also cause erratic running that seems to mimic a mis-adjusted float, but worse. Performance will seem rich and acceleration will be sluggish off idle.

Starts easy, so probably not this.


B) Motor knock knock knocks at idle when hot. Try solution A. If problem persists, perform a “leakdown pressure test” to check for ignition crank seal leakage.

Not sure about this at all.

[seanstr]

Tried CDI, but the others I have blew fuses, lol.

Did replace spark plug, no affect.

Tried the ignition coil. It's not good, so I tried to use a replacement one I had, it didn't work. I am waiting for a replacement from Amazon.


I am real sure the ignition coil was bad. The brass fitting in the ignition coil that attaches to the spark plug had eaten through the brass.

So I'm going with that as a problem. I'm tired it's almost midnight. I'll wait for replacement, I'll continue the process if this doesn't fix it. I have vacuum lines I can replace, and a full set of main jets higher and lower.

[seanstr]

I'll post a picture of the offending plug brass tomorrow.

[seanstr]

I went down on jet size to 108. I can now get up to 43 or so, not fixed, but closet

[seanstr]

Offending inner part of the ignition part.

[seanstr]

So I go to the next jet down. I hope that this corrects all.

[cyborg]

Is that a pic of a jet!!!!,,,no wonder you can't get it to deliver fuel correctly

[seanstr]

Oct 30, 2016 7:45:27 GMT -6 cyborg said:

Is that a pic of a jet!!!!,,,no wonder you can't get it to deliver fuel correctly

No, lol, my Dad said same thing. It isn't. It's the inner guys from the plug wire were it attaches to the spark plug. Mine was bad.

[tvnacman]

Have you done a valve lash check/adjustment. If not you will not get a stable a/f adjustment.