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Post by speedracer on Apr 7, 2011 9:58:26 GMT -6
OK, the problem is not a dirty pilot jet or main jet. Both were clean and I installed a new pilot jet I had and never used. Once the scooter starts and after the choke kicks off the scooter stalls and needs gas to get going again. As far as my knowledge goes, I used carb cleaner throughout the carb. So I remain at wits end.
If anyone is interested the size of the carb bowl screws they are M4-.70 X 16 Lowes has them.
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Post by speedracer on Apr 7, 2011 17:39:20 GMT -6
Next item eliminated is the CDI. New one arrived and still the same. I have checked the spark plug for spark and it is not blue at all more of a white then anything. Also got a slight shock from wire. Wondering now if the coil is and has been the problem.
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Post by grocerygetter on Apr 7, 2011 19:22:11 GMT -6
I wasn't thinking about engine fastening when I replied, though that was indeed where the issue was.
Expansion rate of 2 different mating materials is something to consider, along with alloy reactions. Also brings torque specs into play. The debate on that stuff is humongous. Applications on small virbratey shakey engines probably needs to be considered differently as well. You's would know more than I on that.
Removing ANY fasteners in aluminum engine components benefits from proper anti-sieze at assembly. And the anti-sieze is only going to be there if you put it there after a repair. The 2 different metals react under the various conditions - heat and moisture. Another main key to remove fasteners in aluminum engines - REMOVE ONLY WHEN COLD. A little PB Blaster doesn't hurt either.
In our mold applications we have a terrible time removing hardware from molds that have been running many cycles. Same thing - heat and moisture. Anti-sieze helps the threads, but where the heads contact the stainless, not much we can do there due to exposure.
Have to say as a newbie I'm glad to hear your experience with metals JR. Tig welder thing is very cool too.
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Post by grocerygetter on Apr 7, 2011 19:35:28 GMT -6
speedracer - I think you're narrowing in on your problem - good observation. Wish I had my new scooter here so I could offer more help. Sounds like you certainly have a high voltage problem. I can only offer the obvious that you're likely going to check on your own - cracked lead, bad boot, poor lead insulation and the lead is grounding out on metal somewhere? Can you hear a short snapping, or run it with the cover off in a dark garage and see any arcing? If your lead is grounding out, you may likely be able to get a shock from touching something else on the bike though. On the other hand, your shock may have been a fluke when you were checking the color of the spark? In which case you may have a bad plug? Been changed recently? Very interested to find out what this is.
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Post by speedracer on Apr 8, 2011 10:24:28 GMT -6
Reply 21 Thanks good things to check, which I did most of. No problem with plug as it was changed a few hundred miles ago. Tonight I will start in the garage and look for arcing. Both connectors to the coil from the CDI are on tight. I removed both and even sprayed them with electric contact cleaner. Both are on tight. I did take a plastic tie and secured the spark plug wire to a piece of plastic so it was not close to any piece of metal.
I just came back from a 40 mile ride and the scoot stayed running, although it still hesitates on take off, and after being shut off for 10 minutes it will not start without giving it throttle and will stall right away as soon as I stop giving it gas. This repeats several times before it continues to run steady and smooth.
I have no clue if a coil can overheat or lose power. I am getting frustrated with all this, so my last resort was to order a new coil. If the coil is not the problem then I am at a stand still.
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Post by Alleyoop on Apr 8, 2011 11:04:34 GMT -6
Speedracer, Just cleaning out the JETS is not going to do squat, from what you are saying I believe the PILOT JET PASSAGES are CLOGGED and NOT THE JET. Did you verify that the PILOT JET PASSAGES are Clear: If you Spray into the PILOT JET HOLE Spray should come out here: Alleyoop
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Post by speedracer on Apr 8, 2011 11:42:47 GMT -6
Alley, you just put a bullet in my head. No I did not spray cleaner into the pilot jet hole. Crap, I sprayed inside the intake from both sides, and all around the jets. This carb is not an easy out and back in. It is hard to remove and hard to get back into place, plus all the hoses I need to take off. I hope you are right or I will kill myself.
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Post by Alleyoop on Apr 8, 2011 12:51:00 GMT -6
Speedracer, Well from what you are saying that as soon as it gets OFF the Eniricher it Dies, that means NO FUEL is coming out of the Passages to keep it running. Yea get the CARB CLEANER SPRAY with the LONG thin straw and stick that sucker in the Hole as well as the Main Jet Hole and Spray into them. Alleyoop The Main Jet the spray will come out by where the NEEDLE goes in:
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Post by ce on Apr 8, 2011 18:51:40 GMT -6
When in doubt, adjust the valves.
If doubt persists, adjust the valves again.
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Post by Alleyoop on Apr 8, 2011 19:06:36 GMT -6
Cannot be his valves, it starts right up because it is getting fuel from the Enricher, as soon a it shuts off is when it dies NO FUEL.
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Post by speedracer on Apr 8, 2011 19:14:53 GMT -6
You are spot on with that Alley. Exactly the way it happens. Once running again, it has slight hesitation when taking off, but give it the gas and it will go from 20-60 easily. Shut it off, let it sit 10 minutes and it wont start without giving it gas. If it does start and I let off on the gas it will stall. I have to keep playing with the throttle to keep it going and then like magic it is running fine again.
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Post by speedracer on Apr 9, 2011 14:04:29 GMT -6
OK Alley, I removed the carb once again and took out both the main and pilot jet. Took my can of Gumout Carb cleaner and blasted the away with the straw. The carb cleaner came out exactly in your photo. So I gave it a few more blasts just to make sure. I wasn't cheap on the carb cleaner.
Now put it all back together again and went through the pumping gas back into the carb process and it fired off then stalled. Figured carb cleaner as the reason. Started it again and it ran nice and smooth. I took it out for a ride and ran the snot out of it. WOT up to 60 and all was smooth. What usually happens is after it gets hot and I come to traffic or stop sign when I take off it hesitates. Well no hesitation at all. It jumped when I gave it some gas. Now I'm singing Happy Days are here Again all the way home a good 20 mile trip. I pull in the garage at 3PM and at 3:30 I go out to start it. No go on starting unless I give it gas again. I was positive the problem was finally solved, but it is back.
Any other thoughts?? I just hate going somewhere and coming out and having to fool around for a few minutes to get this scooter running like it should.
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Post by Alleyoop on Apr 9, 2011 14:26:13 GMT -6
BUMMER!! well at least the hesitations are gone, it appears it needs more air, what is it Idleing at when it is All Warmed? If idleing to low it may be the Butterfly needs to be a little more open. Or you can try Leaning the Air/Fuel Mixture say 1/4 turn. Alleyoop
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Post by speedracer on Apr 9, 2011 14:43:28 GMT -6
Alley when warm it idles at just under 2000 rpms. You think making it leaner will help? Right now the screw is exactly out 2 1/2 turns. When carb was off I turned the screw all the way in and then backed it out to 2 1/2. I have to admit no hesitation taking off at a light. It was doing that.
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Post by kz1000st on Apr 11, 2011 15:15:48 GMT -6
I pull in the garage at 3PM and at 3:30 I go out to start it. No go on starting unless I give it gas again
I wouldn't touch a thing. In a half hour the scooter is still warm. I don't think it's unusual to have to give a warm scooter some throttle. If you said you had to play with the throttle after three hours then I might think something is wrong. The engine, water and oil is still warm after only a half hour.
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