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tripped over this while looking for a song on YouTube
enjoy

These units are shipped with dead batteries for our country to dispose of. Don't be surprised about the battery. Buy a better one and move on. I put an 11amp one in.

You definitely are having more trouble with yours.
But back to my statement, the CF Moto version is worth the extra $$ unless workign on this stuff is no problem and you like to fix more than ride.

Your next serious issue will be the coolant.
I changed mine out early on, but the fellow who bought one when I did asked me to check his last night before he put it away for winter, and it was mud.

Mine came out like gold colored oily water when I did my PDI even though the coolant overflow had blue liquid in it - which BTW the blue liquid didn't measure anything on my antifreeze tester. I think its blue food coloring.
But interesting that what came out of my engine and lines was not blue at all. I think they top up the overflow with something that looks like it should pass as antifreeze.

So in order to not end up with mud for your coolant or better yet frozen coolant if you're in a cold part of the country, I would suggest you get that panel off above the glove box.
Three Phillips screws, 1 far right, 1 far left, 1 above the ignition key switch.

GENTLY pry the RIGHT side colored panel away from the glove box to release the black panel that you just unscrewed.
you will unhook the right side of the panel out of the curve on the faring and then gently pull down away from the handle bars.

At this point the left side should be coming out but the parking brake piece of junk lever will need the large plastic nut unscrewed to dismount it from the steel plate that it sits on.

When you get the parking brake loose, then you can fish it thru the panel you are removing - it does not fit out the rectangular hole in the panel without cocking it sideways.

Assuming you have the bike on its center stand, put your oil drain pan under the right side of the engine and remove the lowest bolt that holds the water pump on.
Nothgin will likely come out except a dribble, but be prepared for a strong stream shooting straight out when you now slowly open the rad cap on the right side of the handle bars under the panel you just removed.

I would flush some water thru until it comes out clean.
I mixed my Prestone 60%-40% with water from my dehumidifier - better than most tap water.
***** CHECK THE ANTIFREEZE FOR THE STATEMENT "Does not contant silicates"
Silicates are used in some auto antifreeze to clean fin passages in the heater core and rad.
Scooter water pump seals and components can't handle silicates and you will be into premature cooling system failure as a result.

Great - thanks guys

In Bashan's photo above, where he has nothing in the bottom right and left corners, the clone's dash lights up the word FATTEN.
I might post mine tonight if wolly doesnt get to it first.

I inquired to a German store that seems to be partial to these.
He said its the name of the manufacturer of the dash, possibly other components as well.

I still couldn't find anythign it. Useless light on the dash.

@ wolly - hope you read my posts on this scoot before you bought.
Bashan is going to be happier than you and I with his Moto version.
Hope you got a good deal on it - I paid $1370 + $220 shipping.
PDI is extrememly important.
First thing that comes to mind is you need to get that air box away from the heat sink fins that its rubbing against on the right side.
Lots of other things I found that need attention on these.
You should keep in touch with me and I can walk you thru what I already know on these.

www.helixparts.com/usa/popup_image.php?pID=63

125 mile fall tour today.
Not a long die-hard drive, stopped a lot for pictures.
Couldn't find a safe place to pull over for most of the best mountain shots.

My list is as big as it ever was, but with the forecast for today Sunday) the list had to go back in the drawer.
80F and clear blue sky in the northeast in early October isn’t something you stay in the garage and watch go by.

All in all it was a great inaugural tour for my wife and I.
I haven’t built up confidence in this scooter yet having problems with cold starting and idling no matter how much I play with the idle mixture screw.
So going out for a 100+ mile tour with a passenger may not be the best tryout but hey you gotta give it a shot some time.

Everything went well this morning until we tried to climb Mount Mansfield from the Smugglers Notch side:




I think that part of the road ascends approx. 1000ft in a short distance.
Grade isn’t indicated on a sign, but trucks are not allowed on that road.

We didn’t make it up. Unfortunately someone turned into a driveway right at the bottom of the first big hill, forcing us to start our ascent from a rolling start.
Got up to 35mph and that was it. Speed limit was only 40 there so I figured too bad for people behind us, if I could hold 35 that’s good enough for me.
Well after less than a minute she started slowing down.
No sound change. Throttle wasn’t responding differently in any position.
We slowed until we it died no matter what I tried.

Luckily we weren’t higher up where you hug the guardrail and I was able to pull off into the gravel and push it up about 50ft to a little side road.

Perfect.
"Have you got the AAA card?"
Well lets get out the thermos and cheese and crackers and fruit and try starting it in a while.

No problem, she fired right up like nothing happened.
My wife was convinced that we could probably carry on from there, but I would chance it.
There definitely isn’t enough power for 2 of us to climb a 4,000ft mountain on a scooter that I haven’t dialed in yet.
The farther we go the more narrow it gets and no where to break down.

So packed everything up and back down we went.
My guess is that new sliders with different weights might help it to “gear-down” in these types of situations?
I know our snowmobiles that have proper working clutches can actually be felt gearing down under constant throttle up long steep grades. You can see it in the tach.

What I witnessed on the scooter was the tach getting lower and lower with the speed, no attempt to help the engine gain some torque back with higher rpms.
That is probably something I’d like to dial in next. When you live in the mountains, you need to go up hills.

And for reference, when I started back down the hill that we didn't make it up, I only gave it throttle to about 25mph, then let gravity take its course – we were coasting at 50mph in a few hundred feet. That’s how steep it is.
As a matter of fact, with the tinyest bit of throttle we were doing approx. 65mph in a 40.

So I change course for the day and decided to tour around the lake instead of mountain riding.
Awesome views with deep blue sky. Not as many leaf colors in the lower elevations but still a great day for riding.
We filled up before the lake run just to see what I had been getting during the week and on the way up the mountain.
About 60mpg. Not what I had hoped for, and this was the first time I filled up at a pump to see the actual amount. But I guess climbing mountains isn’t going to get you great mpg’s.

Well after the 60 mile jaunt around the top end of the lake, we filled up at the station near home to see what flatter terrain yielded us.
YES. 70mpg right on the nose.
I realize its not rocket science tying to fill to the same spot in the neck by eye but its pretty darn close.
That gauge was almost down to 3/4 after about 60 miles and it took 0.85 gals to fill. I love this thing! Wish I had have been able to ride all summer dammit!
Now if I can just get that idle and the hill climbing better I’ll be all set for next season!
Enjoy the pictures from our area.

Good idea with the boots. I do that anyway when it snows and I drive a car in, so I might as well just leave the shoes at work after next week - back to decent weather next week.

Got all kinds of mitts for snowmobiling. Short, up to the elbow, leather areas sewn in. Good idea.
Guess I'll still be able to work the signals with my thumb.
Remembered to close my helmet vents Friday morning after 2 drafty mornings.
Might put the wind deflectors back in my helmet to keep the air off my neck. I'm using my full face HJC snowmobile helmet.

Well I cheated and took the easy route first.
Took everything possible off the top of the carb without removing the whole thing.
Sprayed in all passages, watched for the fluid to go down/leak out.
Not so quick in some of the passages first time but seemed to flow out quicker the more I sprayed.

Reassembled and it kicked sooner than it had been when cold.
Took less than a minute to get it running.

Played with the idle to get it to be around 2100 since it was technically cold.
Still hunting for idle though.

Forgot to mention I put 1/2 cup of Seafoam into the tank also.

Let it run until the fan came on.
Was able to mess with the idle mixture screw from the top with me finger reaching around the bottom - if it moves that easy then I might want to put a dab of silicone on it to keep it from vibrating out of position.
Idle mixture is about as good as its going to get - turn one way idle goes down, turn the other way idle goes down.

I shut it down for a few minutes.
Started no problem as it had been when warm.
But idle had calmed down a bit, not hunting as much.

I'll get back at it tomorrow.
Hopefully one of the bike shops has an exhaust gasket that fits--
-- Do I go to a Yamaha place since it's a 250B?
-- Is it just the steel ring that goes between the header and the head port? - I don't know exactly what belongs there since mine got missed during smoke break at the assembly plant

thanks for the help