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Post by royldoc on Apr 24, 2011 11:29:38 GMT -6
Step 5. Install engine temperature sensor. Find a place on cylinder head with the least amount of air flow (usually the backside of engine). I used one of the valve cover bolts (top right in photo). Step 6. Install intake air temperature sensor. Insert sensor into the air filter or someplace between filter and throttle body. Since my filter is a screen type I poked a hole in it and inserted sensor.I used a zip tie on wire so it would not go in to far. Then I used another zip tie around filter so it would not pull out Roy
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Post by royldoc on Apr 24, 2011 14:24:25 GMT -6
Step 6. Install ECU harness. The only wire that can be connected to directly to +12V is the RED +12V wire. If any other wire is connected to +12V directly ECU could be damaged. Step 6.1. Identify ignition pickup sensor wire and ground on CDI box Step 6.2. Splice the ignition pickup sensor wire, and connect it to ECU VRS wire (orange wire on harness) and secure the splice.The VCS wire is a variable reluctant sensor wire. Step 6.3. Connect ignition pickup sensor ground to the ground wire (green wire on harness) , if you don't want to use ECU to control CDI go to step 7. ( It is good practice not to use the ECU to control the CDI first, get the engine running then use ECU to control CDI.) If you want to use the ECU to control the CDI ignition timing, and if our 6-pin CDI was included in the kit (I didn't get their CDI in the kit) :cut the ignition pickup sensor wire, and connect the wire on the sensor side to the ECU VRS input (orange wire on harness). Step 6.4. Then connect the other side of wire (the one you just cut) to the ECU CDI-PG (pulse generation), (Gray wire on the harness). (may be called "sensor signal" on CDI connector). Note: if you use the ECU to control your own CDI, it may not work. Note: if you don't know the pin definitions on your CDI connector, DO NOT CONNECT CDI-PG WIRE!! Step 6.3. Secure connections using tape, or solder then tape. Step 6.4. On most CDIs, there are 2 ground wires on the connector and likely only 1 of them is connected to chassis ground. We suggest that you connect the other ground wire to the chassis ground. Step 7. Splice the "key switch" wire, and connect it to ECU "KEYSW" input (pink wire). The "key switch" is the +12V signal coming from the key-on; for some scooters, it also goes through "stop/kill" switch. The splice should be after the "stop switch", or after the "key switch" if there is no "stop switch". This is the ECU power-on trigger. Without thi wire connected, the ECU will not power on. Note: If there is no key-switch, the "KEYSW" wire can be connected to +12V. But you must install a manual switch between +12V and "KEYSW" wire. Step 8. Install the ECU in a safe place (it should be close to the EFI components, for example, under seat or in trunk). Step 9. Connect EFI components to the harness. Step 10. Connect ECU to 12V battery + and battery -. Step 11. Make sure 12V battery - is connected to chassis ground. Step 12. Check to make sure all wires are connected properly. Roy
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Post by puddle jumper on Apr 25, 2011 0:50:49 GMT -6
my question is I'm thinking with my spare engine upping it to a 100cc(i know its not a full 100) would this be something to consider when I finish the rebuild if so before I do purchase I want to hear as much feedback as possible before I shell out the $$$ looks like something I'd put in my 80cc now hmmm I'll have to look into it. Very good explanation of how its done make sure you do a video of some kind also.
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Post by runningslow on Apr 25, 2011 9:28:29 GMT -6
I'm anxiously awaiting the "It's running" post!!
I've been long considering putting one of these EFI kits on my Matrix, but I didn't want to be the guinea pig.
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Post by Bashan on Apr 25, 2011 14:49:30 GMT -6
Yeah Roy, I'm on pins and needles here! Did the thing start!? So anyway, I'm trying to figure out where these units are coming from. Here's the one you got from Ecotrons:
Now here's the one that's been bumping around for a year or two from MBE:
They look awfully similar don't they? Especially the throttle bodies. What kills me though is suddenly MBE's prices are plummeting. A little competition never hurts ;D. So Roy, did the damn thing start!? ! ! ! Rich
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Post by sprocket on Apr 25, 2011 18:16:49 GMT -6
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Post by sprocket on Apr 25, 2011 18:21:32 GMT -6
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Post by tvnacman on Apr 25, 2011 18:24:53 GMT -6
nice find sprocket
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Post by Bashan on Apr 25, 2011 18:43:55 GMT -6
Has anyone tried the set from Delphi? That's actually the one I was interested in but I couldn't find any suppliers. Do you have any idea where you could buy one? Rich
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Post by tvnacman on Apr 25, 2011 18:54:24 GMT -6
looks like sprockets find maybe the better of the two units , better for emmisions and more data input (crank sensor ) in tank fuel pump ignition and timing ecu controlled , the other unit seem like what my t-bird had in 84 throttle body injection still (better than a carb)
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Post by royldoc on Apr 25, 2011 23:38:51 GMT -6
Sorry guy,s and gals, I have to put this project on hold. Have to leave in the morning to st Louis. The company I work for bought a machine from another company. I have to go tear it down and prep it for the move. I checked out the kit from MBE but on their site was a little higher price but looks like a simular kit. I also found the delpi when I was looking for a pump that draws less amps. and haven't found who actually sell it. here is the run down on the install. I still have to get the harness on. gotta pull more plastic off to get to the ignition wires. The seat bucket also hits the injector. going to use a heat gun and try to make a raised spot over the injector. and also need to weld o2 sensor bung on exhaust. Also I discovered the base gasket is leaking so got to replace. Again sorry to keep you all waiting, I'm as anxious as all of you to get it running.
Roy
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Post by royldoc on Apr 26, 2011 9:19:35 GMT -6
Good news, I don't have to go to st Louis after all. the company we got the machine from hired a machine moving company to do it. I spoke with Matt at Ecotrons. He said that power consumption of the system should not be a problem. The charging system output is about 60w He said they run this system on 50cc engines and the only problem is at prolonged idle it may not charge. If the engine runs at more 2k rpm it should have enough power. I also asked what the difference in their cdi and my cdi is.His answer is that most cdi's control the spark advance and will conflict with the ECU to control the spark. Their cdi does not control the spark. I will order one of their cdi's later. He also said that the o2 sensor should be mounted pointing down so that condensation does not collect in the tip of the sensor. It is possible to run the system without the cdi and o2 sensor hooked up to the ECU, but all it will control is the fuel. So it would not be a true EFI system. Roy
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Post by sprocket on Apr 26, 2011 12:54:16 GMT -6
Delphi... I suspect that these are just for OEM use. Like they want to sell 100,000 units to someone like Honda
But you would think there would be a decent aftermarket. They probably cost more than the scooter however...
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Post by royldoc on May 1, 2011 12:34:40 GMT -6
I finally got every thing Installed except for the O2 sensor. I Tried to start the engine it wants to start but will not run. I am having trouble installing the software on my lap top. some files out of date or missing. I also tried to download software from the website but I get a pdf that adobe can't open. I'm going to call Matt @ Ecotrons tomorrow. I think it will run once I get the software loaded and can tune it. I mounted the ECU and relay to the frame. I had Just enough room behind the seat bucket. I drilled out the vacuum petcock and installed a manual valve. It will run (FAILURE IS NOT AN OPTION) ;D Roy
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Post by sprocket on May 1, 2011 13:25:48 GMT -6
What PDF do you need I can probably open it for you...
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