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Post by jalat on Jun 10, 2011 12:01:56 GMT -6
Why enricher is given high voltage from stator? It should work 12v.
And where is my diode? I can't change diode to relay and therefore get that 0.7v more charge
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Post by Cruiser on Jun 10, 2011 12:03:25 GMT -6
I'm sure that there are YY250T's out there without the blocking diode, Jalat. You most likely have no diode on yours. If you have a switch to turn your headlights on or off, then you will not have a diode. Scoots with the diode generally have a four way flasher switch instead of the headlight switch. Here's where the diode is on my scoot: So, a relay is unnecessary with your scoot. Don't forget to change out that glass fuse with a spade type automotive fuse and holder. The enricher will work with 12 volts DC but it is a resistive device and can use either AC or DC. AC is easier and decreases the DC load on the charging system.
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Post by jalat on Jun 10, 2011 12:29:16 GMT -6
I have switch for turning headlights on or off. And I don't have four way flasher feature at all.
I bought today spade type automotive fuse and holder. Just didn't have time to install it. Hopefully tomorrow I have time for that.
It really makes sense to use enricher with AC load if it is possible.
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Post by jalat on Jun 11, 2011 13:24:51 GMT -6
glass fuse changed to a spade type automotive fuse and holder. No help at all for charging.
Have any of you guys done airhole with wing at the bottom of scooter? Just right in front of radiator. That might cool engine better and fan is not used so much. Maybe?
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Post by Cruiser on Jun 11, 2011 14:30:36 GMT -6
It's just a good idea to replace the glass style fuse. The automotive style is more durable and gives a better electrical connection. The air scoop on the bottom pan is a good idea and I'm sure that other members as well as I have thought about trying it. So far, no feedback from anyone. Let us know if you try it. It should be relatively easy and it certainly won't degrade the cooling.
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Post by jalat on Jun 11, 2011 15:20:48 GMT -6
I am giving a serious thought for that air scoop. I really don't want to miss that another hid light to behind extra switch. But another thought air scoop might collect really much mud, dust etc. to the radiator. But so is linhai style scooter as well where the radiator is right behind the front rear.
I think I will give it a try and let you know. If it does not help, it is really easy to fix back to normal.
By the way. Is that belly pan easy to remove for cutting a scoop. Do I need to remove a lot of plastic?
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Post by jalat on Jun 15, 2011 13:41:09 GMT -6
I think I got fixed this charging issue enough Today postman bring me more led lights. I put them into gauges. Now all of my lights are leds and HIDs. And at the same time when front plastic was off I installed 12 volt socket into a glove box with a relay. And also Gammatronix kameleont led volt meter to tell me charging status while driving. Same kind of gammatronix led which I installed before in my last scooter Malaguti Madison S250. That gammatronix led can show you either charge voltage or battery voltage. There is jumper which allows you to make a selection between. This time I installed rocker swicth into a glove box for those jumper pins. Mainly of course it is showing charging volt state. When green = charging good volts. over 13.2V When orange = not so good volts. 11.8 - 13.1V I tested charging now with all lights on (hid + leds). When idling it was charging good and led was green. I throttled 5 minutes and radiator fan started. Voltmeter led went orange at the same moment. I stopped throttling and let it idle with fan + hid on and led was orange. But when I gave throttle and it went 3500 rpm led turned to green \o/ HOOORAY!!! I think that would be enough. On very hot days fan can start easier. And when driving in the city and stopping lot in traffic lights charger does not chager enough. That might be the only problen later. I will try to avoid that by buying new better battery. Current battery is 8Ah and I will buy 12 or 14 Ah battery. It will allow more traffic stops Also I will put one extra ground wire from battery to frame. Thick good ground wire. Just in case. To avoid electic problems. And today I also bought new coolant liquid and WaterWetter which cool your engine more and cooling fan is not needed so much. Tomorrow I will change my coolants. Water wetter seems to cool it amazingly better. That was new for me. And if that is not enough, then I give it a try for that air scoop. Sadly I already ordered another requlator rectifier and that 3 amp cooling fan. But it is good to have spare parts. Thank you all for help
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Post by damin69 on Jun 15, 2011 13:59:41 GMT -6
With all of the upgrades I did in this thread. I am running at 15.02 Volts constant the whole time the fan is not running. When fan kicks in I drop to 14.85.
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Post by jalat on Jun 15, 2011 14:12:26 GMT -6
That is really good. Maybe better than should I don't think I put too much effort for this issue if this is good enough for me. Of course when I get that another regulator I will give it a try because it is easy to test.
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Post by damin69 on Jun 15, 2011 15:31:31 GMT -6
I thought I was good when I hit the 13.2 volt mark also. Boy was I wrong. It was not until I was up close to 14 volts that the whole charging system seem to work correctly. Prior to 14 volts I always carried a spare battery with me so I could jump start the scooter when the battery would die on me when riding on hot days when the fan ran most of the time is when it would drop enough that I would not be able to start the scooter off of it. Even with a 12amp battery.
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Post by Cruiser on Jun 15, 2011 17:38:05 GMT -6
"On very hot days fan can start easier. And when driving in the city and stopping lot in traffic lights charger does not chager enough. That might be the only problen later. I will try to avoid that by buying new better battery. Current battery is 8Ah and I will buy 12 or 14 Ah battery. It will allow more traffic stops." - Jalat
I have no problem in hot weather city driving with the fan running constantly. I still have the crappy OEM R/R which keeps my battery charging at least at 13.3 while idling. I do have the replacement radiator fan installed which is what you may end up doing. The alternative is the more expensive high output R/R.
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Post by jalat on Jun 16, 2011 10:30:47 GMT -6
DAMN! Back to start. Everything I did (including coolant change with waterwetter) wasn't not enough. I taught it was enough, but I just took a ride and nooooooo.... Not enough charging when HID + fan on together. That Gammatronix led is really handy while driving. Ofcourse digital volt meter would be better, but it's hard to find weather proof one.
I checked also that fan is going to right direction. And added one extra ground wire from battery to frame.
Maybe I need to start measuring what my R/R gives out. I'm just not sure which wires to check. Was it so that the yellow wires in that R/R connector was from stator to R/R? And some other wire is giving charging volts? But what wire?
And is that wire going straight from R/R to battery? So I't would be easy to change?
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Post by damin69 on Jun 16, 2011 10:46:43 GMT -6
Jalat, I feel your pain. Believe me I went through all of what you are going through right now. I have many many post this forum going through everything.. I stripped the whole scooter of plastic unwrapped the wire harness and soldered every place that there was a connection. When I Put in the new 3 amp fan I changed out the fan wiring with 12 gauge wire. I tried 3 different Chinese R/R I found that what I had spent on them I would have saved if I had just gotten the OMP RR to begin with. One of the shipping receipts I got had the Chino R/R listed as a 7.5 amp R/R Stock the lighting alone pulls more than that on the system. The OMP is rated I believe about 25 amps.
Some people have gotten a good OEM R/R like Cruiser.
Good luck stick with it you will get it to charge. You are VERY close now..
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Post by jalat on Jun 16, 2011 11:21:08 GMT -6
Thank you damin69 for your understanding. I've been reading a lot of your writings. I believe I need to read them again and write down every tip and try them step by step. But I think it's better to start by reading the volts from regulator. And hope that it gives good volts. Then start to check wires. This is hard to me because I live in Finland which is in another side of the planet. And in here there is not so many of these chinese scooters. Here is about 5 million people and maybe under 100 china maxiscooter. People here buy more those good brand scooters. Every part I need to order from ebay. Parts come from USA or China/Hong Kong. And it ALWAYS takes 2-4 week before postman brings me that part. Frustrating Thats why I ordered a lot of stuff just in case. Even led lights. Yes I can buy them here in Finland. But 2 led lights here without shipping costs, cost the same than 20 led lights from ebay including shipping. 1 variator belt here costs more than 2 belts from USA including shipping This is pretty expensive country. Now you can laugh New Jonway cfmoto 244cc scooter costs near 5000 US Dollar. Try to imagine how much honda, yamaha, kymco or suzuki scooters cost. 1 us gallon gasoline costs here 8,5 US Dollar. (how much it might cost in USA?) Thats enough offtopic. Back to bisness. Now I'm going to take a drink or two (maybe three) and go to sauna. Then someday when I get more time and maybe that another good/bad regulator I start stripping that scooter.
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Post by damin69 on Jun 16, 2011 12:01:12 GMT -6
Well being that you have that major problem and you are able to get 13.2 volts with the RR you have. Get that 3 amp fan put in. Now I dont remeber did you put a toggle switch on one of your HIDs? If not I would do that. Both of them will probably get you up to the Prime charging voltage you are aiming for.
I guess I will stop complaining about the $4.15 a gallon I am paying for gas. Even at that it gets costly when I am 120 miles round trip to work everyday. I still spend around $600 a month just for gas to get to work. When I had my truck it was closer to $800 a month.
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