OMP Regulator Rectifier Upgrade By damin69 (Read 13,235 times)

[yoster]

For the record, the link to the Linhai stator that JR posted will not work in the CFMOTO engine. I received an email from our man at Oregon Motorcycle parts and he is quickly losing interest in re-winding these stators because he saw a post stating that there was already a better stator for our engines (correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't believe that's the case).

Lets make it clear how much we'd appreciate his services to re-wind our stators

[damin69]

Man if there is a better stator I would love to know where to get it. I think the weak A$$ thing we have on our scoot is half the problem.

[Smorkle]

JR: The stator I got WAS for the linhai engines, just not mine. If you will look at partsfochinesescooters.com you will see they specifically show a different one for Roketa. I don't know why Roketa would be a difference, cause they're all made in varying places, but that is what they have it listed as.

[Cruiser]

Super snoopin', Dr. JR. We really didn't establish whether or not there was a weak stator involved in all these electrical mysteries. It could be a random batch of weak parts (R/R or stators or both). The solution or solutions may be on an individual basis. I may have a weak stator while Todd may have a weak regulator and Yoster might have both, ad nauseum. I still have to get out in the heat to take some stator output comparisons between one headlight and two headlights running. Right now, there is no charging problem as long as I run one headlight.

Also, Dr. JR, I was able to straighten the radiator nozzle on my eBay radiator/fan combo (thanks again for the link) and I did a bench test on the fan. 4.5 amps @ 12 volts. This is with the fan and radiator mounted together. Probably run under 4 amps installed in a scoot with 13.5 to 14 volts running.

[Smorkle]

JR: I was looking at the partsforscooters.com link you posted and I don't think EITHER of those stators are correct for my scooter. The type 1 looks similar, but the connector is definitely wrong. I measured mine the way they are measuring the one they have there and it measures 43mm center of hole to center of hole where theirs is 46mm. They don't show the measurement of the type 2 but it looks larger, however the plugs look wrong too.

The ebay one you showed says the shaft size is 32mm and my shaft size was 41.5mm. Hell, even the wrong I bought was a 35mm.

I bet ONE of these three stators is for the cfmoto version, but I'm like you: a guy will have to pull it out and measure what he's got and make sure he's ordering the right thing!

[damin69]

Ok Big update today. Figured I would post.

Ok I have not rerouted the Fan Yet. I will do that at a later date I am tired of strippin the scoot to frame I want to enjoy some riding for a bit. I had a huge break through today.

Ok My LEDs for instrument panel came in this last week and My scooter got back from getting new tire. So Since I was taking front off to put in the LEDs I cut in and put a toggle switch on one of my HIDs like Cruiser did to his. I ride mostly during the day when it is HOT I do not need both head lights during the day. So you are asking what was the result. Well here it is 1 HID all day 84 degrees out side Fan running most of the day. With Fan Running and 1 HID I was at 14.7 volts with Fan off I was at 14.99 volts. If I kick in both lights and the fan running It drops below 12.7 Volts I came home tonight in the dark and I did a bit of alternating 2 lights on and if I was following someone I would turn off one and just run with one HID. I have to say I could run with 1 HID and still see way better than having 2 stock bulbs in it so I am not loosing anything even if I only run one bulb 90% of the time.

So for now I am going to enjoy taking some real time to ride and not take the scooter apart until I have to. I hope the next time I take scooter apart is to put in the Proto CDI for KidNme.

Thanks,
Todd

[Cruiser]

Congratulations, Todd. Now you can get in some quality scootin' time again. Your results are identical to mine when you take into account that I run an electric fuel pump. I also am running the OEM R/R that came with my scoot. I don't think your OMP unit is being used to its fullest potential because the stator does not have the output to do so. It seems that if you are lucky enough to have a decent OEM R/R, it will put out as much as the stator is capable of delivering which is probably in the 10 to 15 amp range. The plus with the OMP unit is that it is guaranteed and you can always get a properly working one without having to cherry pick until you find a good one. It looks like the stator is the limiting component once you have a good R/R.

[jrryan]

I do understand not wanting to strip it so much but I'm doing a good 7k go through PDI now and I have some of the plastics off now. Just for kicks I hooked up a piece of wire and put a slip on crimp connector on it and hooked it up to my thermoswitch and removing the current feed it has.

Hooked up the new wire to the black wire out of the igniton which would similate yours, fired her up and let the fan kick in and instead of the 13.8+ volts I'm used to it dropped to just about a even 13 volts.

It does make a difference my friends. Dr. JR

[damin69]

Thanks JR,
And as stated I do still plan on re routing the Fan circuit at some time. I just right now want to take a break from working on the scooter every weekend. I just got it in April and do not think I have had a weekend yet I have not had to take the plastic off of it.

[fairweasel2323]

the type 1 I can tell is for the Honda 244cc clone It looks identical plug to my MC-13-250 with Honda clone Im betting the type 2 is for the Lihani clone it says the type 1 is for the MC-54B and the MC-13-250 which would be mine with the Honda clone if that helps anyone It has the exact 3 wire plug in and mine does not have the two female plugs.

[fairweasel2323]

I emailed parts for scooters and they sad the rotor fits both and the type 1 is for the honda cone and the type 2 is for the scoots with the lihani/Yahmaha clone as the plug ins are different is the main difference

[jalat]

Please explain me how this relay is better than diode?
Does it improve charge current?
What does diode do and do this relay do the same?
Is that relay hard to install?
And what kind of relay?

I am not sure what modifications I should do to my cf-moto fan system to have it linhai fan system like. But if it makes that big difference I might give it a try. If I find time and you explain it to me with wiring diagram and with photos.

Damin maybe let you borrow his photos so you can mark with arrows and tell where to connect fan powercord?

And how it have to be connected with thermometer?

Damin69 great picture gallery

[Cruiser]

The relay does not reduce the charging voltage to the battery. A diode typically drops around .7 volts when conducting so you will have .7 volts more at the battery with the relay. It takes about 2 watts to operate the relay while you will loose about 7 to 10 watts with the diode.

When the engine is not running, there is no conduction through the diode which will block current flow to the headlight circuits. Diodes allow current flow only in one direction. When the engine starts, the output of the R/R is greater than the battery which will allow current to flow through the diode which allows the headlights to come on and the battery will charge.

With the relay, the headlights will come on with the ignition key and the output of the R/R is connected to the battery. Once the engine starts, all electrical functions are normal (battery charges and headlights are on). When the ignition is turned off, the lights go out and the battery is disconnected from the R/R.

The relay is a common part designed to handle 30 to 40 amps. Here's a link:

www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=330-073

It's about the same size as the diode and can be installed in the same area. The pins are numbered. One of the diode wires goes to pin 30 and the other goes to pin 87. Connect pin 86 to ground and pin 85 to an ignition switched wire.

This relay can be found at any auto parts store and in most electronics parts stores. Average price is around $6.

[jalat]

Just played with volt meter and scooter battery. I started engine and took some numbers.

Fan on and all lights off = 14,44 v
Fan on and just driving lights and gauge lights on = 14,36 v
Fan on and both HID on and of course all the lights on = 12,28 v


Then I started to think about that diode -> relay change. That would raise that 12.28v -> 13v and if I change all my gauge lights to leds then it might be something between 13-13,3v

I remember not to see any diode in my scooter when it was naked. I didn't start to undress all the plastics off, because I don't have those led bulbs yet or that 3 amp fan. But instead I started to look pictures of my naked scooter. I took pictures when I did some sort of PDI.

I could not find diode even in those pictures
I could not believe that and went back to my scooter and tried to look everywhere where I could see. And I just did not found it.

Is it possible that there is a cfmoto scooter model which does not have this diode at all?
Basically is it even needed at all?
I believe mine is without diode and I believe there is a model without diode.

Mine does not have that exhaust gas circulation system which you can also see here in Damin69 picture right under regulator.

And in my scooter I can turn on HID xenon lights when key is turned to ignition on position and without engine running.

Damin69's Jonway YY250T's diode has red-black wires. (or red and yellow)

Here is couple of bad photos of my Jonway Steelbird







And what is this one shared yellow wire for?
Shouldn't there go same 30-60 volt what goes from stator to regulator via those yellow 3 wire.

[yoster]

That yellow wire goes to your enricher