Post by Alleyoop on Jul 11, 2011 15:06:21 GMT -6
CVT WEIGHTS:
The Scoot engines have pretty good torque as well as descent power for their size.
Check your Variator first and see if Both Pulleys are the Same Size.
If the Variator itself is smaller than the Outside Pulley you can get what they call a PERFORMANCE Variator that is the same size as the Outside Pulley.
Belts will only climb as high as the Smallest Pulley.
So by having Equal Size Pulleys the belt now can be made to climb higher for more TOP END SPEED.
Weights and RPMS play a major roll on making the Belt climb higher.
Heavier weights Require Less RPMs to push the Belt up the Variator.
Lighter weights Require Higher RPMS to push the Belt up the Variator.
Roller Weights - Will Change your RPMS by 500-600 for every gram up or down.
Slider Weights - Will Change your RPMS by 200-350 for every gram up or down.
Experiment with different Gram Rollers first, they are cheap. You first need to weigh your current weights so you can selectively buy the gram weights you want. Either Heavier ones or Lighter ones depending on how you want to tune your CVT. More top end or stronger take offs and reaching mid-range speeds. Or you can find the weights that will give you good start off and mid-range speeds and not loose top end.
You should always get 2 sets of rollers 1 gram heavier or lighter than what your current weights are depending on which way you want to go(MAXED OUT TOP END-Little Sluggish on take offs) Or (MAXED OUT START OFF and MID-RANGE –Little loss of TOP END) Or something in between. Example: Your current weights are 14Grams and you like the top end but would like stronger take offs and reaching good mid-range speeds but keep your top end. Then Get 12g and 13G weights.
Now you can experiment with different gram weights:
All 12gram weights
All 13gram weights.
3-12gram and 3-13gram weights for a 12.5 combo.
3-Original 14G and 3-13gram weights for a 13.5 combo.
When you find the Gram Weights that you like and at the RPMS you like then you can buy 1 Gram Heavier Sliders (I prefer Dr. Pulley Sliders). Reason being is since the Sliders only change your RPMS by half of the Rollers, your Rpms will be almost the same as with the Rollers that you decided on. So going with 1 Gram Heavier with Sliders you GAIN just a little more top end due to Fact they are 1 Gram heavier than the Rollers and still the same RPMS (Win Win).
Heavier weights take LESS RPMS to push the Variator out but they will push the belt higher in the Pulley for more top end. But Weights that are to Heavy will make your Takeoff and Mid-Range Sluggish because it moves the belt to fast past the lower gearing of the Pulley faces.
Also Heavier Weights will cause your RPMS to DROP by the numbers mentioned so you also have to watch that your RPMS do not drop too much out of the engines power band.
You want to run at or Near the RPMS the engine makes its MAX Horsepower. If it revs much LOWER than that, the engine is Not producing enough horsepower and in many cases you will loose some top end because it is not turning the Variator fast enough.
Lighter weights take MORE RPMS to push the Variator out but they will keep the belt in the lower gearing of the variator longer for stronger Start up and quicker Mid-Range speed. But Weights that are to Light will cause loss of top end because the weights will not move the variator out far enough. Also Lighter Weights will cause your RPMS to RISE to fast by the numbers mentioned so here again you have to watch that you do NOT over rev the engine.
You want to run at or Near the RPMS the engine makes its MAX Horsepower. If it revs much higher than that, the engine is Not producing any more horsepower and in many cases will loose horsepower due to floating valves etc.
It is all about Centrifugal force to move the variator out as far as possible so as to squeeze the belt between the two pulleys and have the belt move up as far as possible on the pulley. Doing this creates a bigger wheel now turning a smaller wheel faster. Two means of getting the belt to climb higher more, 1 is high RPMS and 2 heavier weights. Now you have to remember that putting in TO heavy of weights will lower your rpms so that would defeat the purpose, so you have to find a medium with the weights and rpms. You can only do so much with the CVT tuning then it is either get the motor to produce more rpms(which high rpms is the thing that destroys motors sooner rather than later) or you can put in taller tranny gears which will turn the final drive gear more times per revolutions of the Clutch Shaft.
Here is a good example of a Variator NOT tuned right and because of it the scoot is loosing some top end: A well tuned Variator should leave only about 1/8 on the edge of the Variator not used.
TALLER GEARS IN THE TRANNY:
Changing the gears behind the Clutch to taller gears for more top end speed is a buck well spent and the gears are cheap:
If you Change the Small Shaft that the Clutch turns by 1 more Tooth AND the Big Gear that the Small Shaft Turns by 1 Less Tooth that Drives the Output Shaft that turns the Wheel or (Sprocket with a Chain) you will gain about 4-5 mph more. For every number of teeth changed you can expect about 4-5mph more Top End Speed.
Example: If your current gears are 13/40, 13 being the number of teeth on the short shaft that the Clutch turns and 40 being the number of teeth on the gear that the 13 tooth short shaft turns, which In turn actually turns your wheel or sprocket THEN If you go with 15/38 2up and 2 down you will gain approx 8-10mph on your top end.
I do not recommend going more than 2up and 2down UNLESS you add more power to the engine, otherwise the engine will not have enough power to pull the taller gears quick enough. It will be sluggish starting off and getting up to speed.
Alleyoop
Here is a GEAR RATIO CHART TO HELP IN SELECTING YOUR GEARS:
The Scoot engines have pretty good torque as well as descent power for their size.
Check your Variator first and see if Both Pulleys are the Same Size.
If the Variator itself is smaller than the Outside Pulley you can get what they call a PERFORMANCE Variator that is the same size as the Outside Pulley.
Belts will only climb as high as the Smallest Pulley.
So by having Equal Size Pulleys the belt now can be made to climb higher for more TOP END SPEED.
Weights and RPMS play a major roll on making the Belt climb higher.
Heavier weights Require Less RPMs to push the Belt up the Variator.
Lighter weights Require Higher RPMS to push the Belt up the Variator.
Roller Weights - Will Change your RPMS by 500-600 for every gram up or down.
Slider Weights - Will Change your RPMS by 200-350 for every gram up or down.
Experiment with different Gram Rollers first, they are cheap. You first need to weigh your current weights so you can selectively buy the gram weights you want. Either Heavier ones or Lighter ones depending on how you want to tune your CVT. More top end or stronger take offs and reaching mid-range speeds. Or you can find the weights that will give you good start off and mid-range speeds and not loose top end.
You should always get 2 sets of rollers 1 gram heavier or lighter than what your current weights are depending on which way you want to go(MAXED OUT TOP END-Little Sluggish on take offs) Or (MAXED OUT START OFF and MID-RANGE –Little loss of TOP END) Or something in between. Example: Your current weights are 14Grams and you like the top end but would like stronger take offs and reaching good mid-range speeds but keep your top end. Then Get 12g and 13G weights.
Now you can experiment with different gram weights:
All 12gram weights
All 13gram weights.
3-12gram and 3-13gram weights for a 12.5 combo.
3-Original 14G and 3-13gram weights for a 13.5 combo.
When you find the Gram Weights that you like and at the RPMS you like then you can buy 1 Gram Heavier Sliders (I prefer Dr. Pulley Sliders). Reason being is since the Sliders only change your RPMS by half of the Rollers, your Rpms will be almost the same as with the Rollers that you decided on. So going with 1 Gram Heavier with Sliders you GAIN just a little more top end due to Fact they are 1 Gram heavier than the Rollers and still the same RPMS (Win Win).
Heavier weights take LESS RPMS to push the Variator out but they will push the belt higher in the Pulley for more top end. But Weights that are to Heavy will make your Takeoff and Mid-Range Sluggish because it moves the belt to fast past the lower gearing of the Pulley faces.
Also Heavier Weights will cause your RPMS to DROP by the numbers mentioned so you also have to watch that your RPMS do not drop too much out of the engines power band.
You want to run at or Near the RPMS the engine makes its MAX Horsepower. If it revs much LOWER than that, the engine is Not producing enough horsepower and in many cases you will loose some top end because it is not turning the Variator fast enough.
Lighter weights take MORE RPMS to push the Variator out but they will keep the belt in the lower gearing of the variator longer for stronger Start up and quicker Mid-Range speed. But Weights that are to Light will cause loss of top end because the weights will not move the variator out far enough. Also Lighter Weights will cause your RPMS to RISE to fast by the numbers mentioned so here again you have to watch that you do NOT over rev the engine.
You want to run at or Near the RPMS the engine makes its MAX Horsepower. If it revs much higher than that, the engine is Not producing any more horsepower and in many cases will loose horsepower due to floating valves etc.
It is all about Centrifugal force to move the variator out as far as possible so as to squeeze the belt between the two pulleys and have the belt move up as far as possible on the pulley. Doing this creates a bigger wheel now turning a smaller wheel faster. Two means of getting the belt to climb higher more, 1 is high RPMS and 2 heavier weights. Now you have to remember that putting in TO heavy of weights will lower your rpms so that would defeat the purpose, so you have to find a medium with the weights and rpms. You can only do so much with the CVT tuning then it is either get the motor to produce more rpms(which high rpms is the thing that destroys motors sooner rather than later) or you can put in taller tranny gears which will turn the final drive gear more times per revolutions of the Clutch Shaft.
Here is a good example of a Variator NOT tuned right and because of it the scoot is loosing some top end: A well tuned Variator should leave only about 1/8 on the edge of the Variator not used.
TALLER GEARS IN THE TRANNY:
Changing the gears behind the Clutch to taller gears for more top end speed is a buck well spent and the gears are cheap:
If you Change the Small Shaft that the Clutch turns by 1 more Tooth AND the Big Gear that the Small Shaft Turns by 1 Less Tooth that Drives the Output Shaft that turns the Wheel or (Sprocket with a Chain) you will gain about 4-5 mph more. For every number of teeth changed you can expect about 4-5mph more Top End Speed.
Example: If your current gears are 13/40, 13 being the number of teeth on the short shaft that the Clutch turns and 40 being the number of teeth on the gear that the 13 tooth short shaft turns, which In turn actually turns your wheel or sprocket THEN If you go with 15/38 2up and 2 down you will gain approx 8-10mph on your top end.
I do not recommend going more than 2up and 2down UNLESS you add more power to the engine, otherwise the engine will not have enough power to pull the taller gears quick enough. It will be sluggish starting off and getting up to speed.
Alleyoop
Here is a GEAR RATIO CHART TO HELP IN SELECTING YOUR GEARS:
..BAD TO THE BONE..
Least they can do is be honest and let me know they do not know 
