!HELP! 2011 New Scoot w/ 200 Mi. Not Accelerating By straightbangin (Read 10,805 times)

[Alleyoop]

I think all you need now is to adjust the Carb, now that you adjusted the valves it it taking in a different amount of air and fuel. I put 1oz of seafoam per gallon all year around. Haven't had to CLEAN the carb NOT EVEN ONCE since June of 2009. Adjust the Carb yes, a little LEANER in the Summer and a Little RICHER in the Cold months, but that is due to the Air and Temp changes.

Here is how to adjust your Carb for the little hesistations and maybe a little bogging:
Alleyoop

ADJUSTING YOUR FUEL RATIO SCREW:

FOLLOW THIS PROCEDURE, take your time DO NOT Be turning the SCREW fast and wait in between turns otherwise you will be off.

Warm Up the SCOOT for at least 5 minutes.

YOU WANT THE HIGHEST IDLE OUT OF THE FUEL RATIO SCREW YOU CAN GET.

ADJUST YOUR RUEL RATIO:

1.Turn the Fuel Ratio Screw Counter Clockwise 1/4 and wait 10-15 seconds to allow the engine to catch up with the new setting.

** IF ON THE FIRST TURN IT DOES NOTHING OR IDLE GOES DOWN- GO to 2.*** Otherwise GO to a. below.

a. If the IDLE GOES up repeat 1.
b. If the IDLE does not go up or it does nothing turn the Fuel Ratio Screw 1/8 Clockwise that should be the highest IDLE you can get out of the Fuel Ratio Screw-- GO to FINISH UP.

2. Turn the Screw Back 1/4 and GO to 3..

3. Turn the Fuel Ratio Screw Clockwise 1/4 and wait 10-15 seconds to allow the engine to catch up with the new setting.

** IF ON THE FIRST TURN IT DOES NOTHING YOUR PILOT JET AND OR PASSAGES ARE CLOGGED*** GO to CLEAN CARB*** Otherwise GO to a. below.

a. If the IDLE GOES up repeat 3.
b. If the IDLE does not go up or it does nothing turn the Fuel Ratio Screw 1/8 Counter Clockwise that should be the highest IDLE you can get out of the Fuel Ratio Screw-- GO to FINISH UP.

FINISH UP:
SET IDLE USING IDLE SPEED SCREW:
USING the IDLE SPEED SCREW set the Idle to 1500-1800 where it IDLES the smoothest AND the REAR WHEEL NOT be Spinning- DONE RIDE SAFE.

CLEAN CARB:
Take Carb Bowl off and clean Pilot Jet and Pilot Jet Passage and Main Jet and Passage.
Then come back and repeat this procedure.

[straightbangin]

I put 1oz of seafoam per gallon all year around.

Are you saying every time you fill your gas? And do you put it in before or after filling your gas (it never said this on the bottle either) and I'm not sure if it matters

Haven't had to CLEAN the carb NOT EVEN ONCE since June of 2009. Adjust the Carb yes, a little LEANER in the Summer and a Little RICHER in the Cold months, but that is due to the Air and Temp changes.

Cool. I was reading a little something about leaner vs richer today. Its 75-95 year round here and we get maybe 7 days a year where the temp drops down to 35-55 in the winter, but its really random and strange when it happens. So I guess I should just keep it on the leaner side?

Great info thanks!

Where is the fuel ratio screw and where is the idle speed screw, and how will I know when its set to 1500-1800? are there #s on it?


So when I end up needing to clean it, I really only need to clean the bowl, jets and jet passages? Not take every damn little piece out and clean it? LOL I saw in a video a guy hand this teenie tiny little brush to clean a passage, he used it and then he used compressed air to blow it out. Are either of these necessary? Can I remove the carb bowl and the jets w/ out having to take the whole carb out of the scooter? Wishful thinking I know

Thanks for your help!! <3

[Cruiser]

Jul 21, 2011 22:31:01 GMT -6 straightbangin said:

I put 1oz of seafoam per gallon all year around.

Are you saying every time you fill your gas? And do you put it in before or after filling your gas (it never said this on the bottle either) and I'm not sure if it matters

Haven't had to CLEAN the carb NOT EVEN ONCE since June of 2009. Adjust the Carb yes, a little LEANER in the Summer and a Little RICHER in the Cold months, but that is due to the Air and Temp changes.

Cool. I was reading a little something about leaner vs richer today. Its 75-95 year round here and we get maybe 7 days a year where the temp drops down to 35-55 in the winter, but its really random and strange when it happens. So I guess I should just keep it on the leaner side?

Great info thanks!

Where is the fuel ratio screw and where is the idle speed screw, and how will I know when its set to 1500-1800? are there #s on it?


So when I end up needing to clean it, I really only need to clean the bowl, jets and jet passages? Not take every damn little piece out and clean it? LOL I saw in a video a guy hand this teenie tiny little brush to clean a passage, he used it and then he used compressed air to blow it out. Are either of these necessary? Can I remove the carb bowl and the jets w/ out having to take the whole carb out of the scooter? Wishful thinking I know

Thanks for your help!! <3

I like to put fuel additives in just before adding gas so that the stuff mixes well. Seafoam keeps the fuel system clean and is a great gas stabilizer. Since you will be using the scoot frequently, the stabilizer feature is not really important. Using it as a fuel system cleaner probably would be good for the first few tank fulls and then once every third or fourth fill up. Here's a good tutorial on adjusting the carb:

scooterdoc.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=intake&action=display&thread=1395

It shows a 150cc carb which is almost identical to the 50cc unit. Once you get the carb adjusted, the small variations in temp where you ride will not affect it.

It looks like you don't have a tach, so use the idle speed which is just below the point at which the rear wheel spins when on the center stand. Do this after the scoot is warmed up.

If you can get the idle mixture and speed set up OK, and the scoot drives good, there should really be no need to take the carb apart for cleaning. Some scoots have enough room to flip the carb over just by loosening the clamps on the intake manifold side and the air filter side of the carb. This allows the bowl to be removed which exposes the stuff you really need to get at for cleaning. Compressed air and/or brushes and wires are necessary only if the carb is really plugged up and won't respond to the normal carb cleaner spray.

[straightbangin]

Fantastic Info! Thank you!

[straightbangin]

I re-read your post and I totally understand how you explained the fuel ration screw, but... for:

FINISH UP:
SET IDLE USING IDLE SPEED SCREW:
USING the IDLE SPEED SCREW set the Idle to 1500-1800 where it IDLES the smoothest AND the REAR WHEEL NOT be Spinning- DONE RIDE SAFE.

What do you mean by " set idle using idle speed screw " am I turning this clockwise or counter clockwise and how much? What am I listening for here? It says

set the Idle to 1500-1800 where it IDLES the smoothest AND the REAR WHEEL NOT be Spinning- DONE RIDE SAFE.

I'm guessing this means turn the throttle a tiny tiny tiny bit where its idling faster but not enough to move the bike? Then what?

(Thanks)

[Alleyoop]

After the FUEL RATIO screw is adjusted YOUR IDLE MAY BE TO HIGH, So to lower the IDLE back down to a nice easy idle you using the IDLE SPEED SCREW that is the one with the SPRING ON IT on the side of the Throttle Cable.
TO LOWER the Idle you Turn the Screw COUNTER CLOCKWISE to INCREASE the Idle you turn it CLOCKWISE.

In your case since you do NOT have a TACHOMETER to tell you the RPMS JUST set the Idle so that the REAR WHEEL JUST WANTS TO TURN. If you think it is still Idleing to HIGH at that point just lower it a little more. NOW it just takes a TINY BIT to lower or raise the IDLE maybe 1/16 of a turn or so. THEN YOU ARE DONE RIDE into the Wind.
Alleyoop
Here you can see the IDLE SPEED SCREW WITH THE SPRING ON IT.

[straightbangin]

Perfect! Got it! Thanks.

I started my scooter this morning and went for a ride and all is well but I am going to adjust the carb today or tomorrow, I don't want to put it off any longer.

Every since I bought my scooter and still when I start it, it sounds like this when its warming up: Almost like an old car sounds when it has a loose belt perhaps or maybe you could call it a " chirping " of some sort? Its kind of hard to hear but you can hear it a little better in the first half of the video I took an hour ago. I don't know if it means anything or its just a little noisy since its a cheap scooter, but my other scooter ( same make / model ) just a year older, never made this noise. (I'm so glad I painted the exhaust and pipe w/ black high temp engine paint to ward of rust since w/ my first scooter that thing rusted in a week! Too bad I couldn't paint the bolts )

[straightbangin]

Ok I'm finally adjusting the carb, a day or two after I adjusted the valves but I have only driven it a a few times since for a few min.

So... I open the scooter back up.

I know you do the Air/Fuel adjustment ratio first but I don't see it.

I found the idle speed screw no problem from this diagram:



and mine looks like:



But the side where my air/fuel ratio adjustment is:
as seen here:



looks like this on mine:





Its just like blank ( no screw to turn) Could it be possible that my cheap little scooter just doesn't have one and all I have to work with is the idle speed screw?

Thanks.

[Alleyoop]

The First picture is your IDLE SPEED screw, yours has a nice little knob to grab and turn it by hand. Clockwise raises the IDLE Counter Clockwise Lowers the Idle.

As far as the FUEL RATIO SCREW is concerned (BUMMER). But it may just be a Cover Over the Screw so no one messes with it(FOR PASSING EMISSIONS THEY SET THE LEAN).

Now If you could take a nice close picture of it we may be able to tell if it is JUST A CAP that you can pull off. Some are Actully PLUGGED and you would need to get the same carb BUT with the FUEL RATIO SCREW avaiable. If it looks like just a soft piece of aluminum Like the BIGGER CAP RIGHT ABOVE it you can take a tiney screwdriver with a very small flat piece OR even a knife for that matter and see if you can pop it off. If it comes off the screw is behind it.

Or you can Drill a tiney hold in the center just enough to then take a small screw and screw it in and pull it off. If its a cap it is very THIN so the drill should put a little hole in a second if it is NOT A SOLID PLUG.
Alleyoop

[straightbangin]

Thanks. Interesting. Ya I was thinking it was a cap too but it seems like its just nothing. LOL. Is it possible that the scooter comes w/ out one or do you think they def just blocked it off? I'm going to see if I can go mess w/ it. I don't have a drill

[sprocket]

If the A/Fuel screw is plugged and I think it is... you can raise the the throttle needle in the diaphragm one slot or add a thin washer under it...this will make things richer.

Move the C-clip one groove to the pointed end

The diaphragm is located in the very top of the carb, under the black plastic cover...

Attachments:

[straightbangin]

Ya I can't get that plug out, I used a small, very pointy, shape knife and no go.

Thanks. So richer is what I want? Does that mean, makes it idles faster?

I don't understand rich vs lean

Do I do this ( get into the diaphram ) w the scooter shut off then start it up and see if it sounds different after I'm done?

If it sounds faster do I then go to step 2 with the idle screw?

[Alleyoop]

Raising or lower the NEEDLE like Sprocket said ONLY EFFECTS it once you get to around 10-15 or mph. It will have NO EFFECT at IDLE only around 10 and up mph. The Needle effects MID-RANGE and WIDE OPEN THROTTLE.
So after you raise the needle by ONE NOTCH to richen it you will have to take a ride and see how it acts.
Alleyoop

[Alleyoop]

So knowing what the Raiseing or Lowering the Needle and at what speeds. Is the problem present when you are starting off to go or after your rolling and or at higher speeds?

If its starting off then raiseing the the Needle will not help. To get more fuel then without buying squat you can tape up a little part of the Air Filter where the air is coming in. That will let less air in and you will be RICHER(getting more gas than air).
Alleyoop

[straightbangin]

Ok so first raise needle a bit, and move the c clip one notch down towards the pointed end. Do I just pull it up, or does it screw up? And when I open the diaphram it will be just sitting there right in the middle? Then I take it for a test drive and see how it acts at around 15-20mph and go from there before messing with the idle screw?