150cc Hard to start By Jon C (Read 2,057 times)

[Jon C]

My Roketa clone takes a lot of cranking before it finally starts. Scoot has been running great for the last year, but this is new.

The battery seems to be cranking slower these days, but I'd think it would start it. Unless there is not enough voltage for the CDI/coil?

I've got about 5000 china miles since my last valve adjustment. Would valves out of adjustment cause hard starting?

Thanks,

Jon

[tvnacman]

Yes the valves would give you hard starting .
I would also check the battery , pull it out and slow charge it over night . Let it sit for an hour and check the statding voltage . Reinstall it and check the charging system .

John

[Bashan]

John has some great points there. You also might unplug the vac hose to the intake manifold, squirt some carb cleaner in there, reattch and see if it bangs off. If it does it might be a fuel issue. Rich

[Kaveman]

fuel filter or line being plugged ?
will

[roketafan]

prob a little of all tho suggestions thro a new plug in there 2

[Alleyoop]

Yes, with these scoots if it start to get harder to start CHECK THOSE VALVES before messing with the carb.
Alleyoop

[Bashan]

Sept 24, 2011 17:12:24 GMT -6 Kaveman said:

fuel filter or line being plugged

[/b][/quote]
It doesn't matter, the vac line off of the manifold goes right into the intake mechanism, if it starts of at least tries to it's a fuel issue at some point in the system. Rich

[sprocket]

>>>CHECK THOSE VALVES before messing with the carb.

Music to my ears Alley!! Gee I get sick of telling that to people....

[tvnacman]

adjusting valves is very intimadating , just the phrase "adjust the valves" if one has never done this before is like brain sergery . I now know how very simple it is only after I have done it .

John

[Alleyoop]

John,
Yes, it is intimdating the first time for someone that has never done it before. What I always fear telling someone that has never done it before is that they are going to CRANK like heck on the LOCK NUTs and strip the adjusting stud or nut. Also they may tighten up the Valve cover to much as well and can strip the head or snap a bolt.

Sprocket,
Yes it does get repetitive, that is why I have a lot of the responses all written up and on my computer. I got tired of typing the same crap over and over again (HEHE).
Alleyoop

[sprocket]

I'm getting there too.. Alley...just cut an paste

This is how I set the valves...

Roll Over Method...

1. Remove the spark plug or back it off so it leaks compression
2. Remove the valve cover. Remove the fan cover
3. Using the cooling fan with a wrench or turn with your hand, rotate the engine CLOCKWISE
4. Watch the valves.
5. When the INTAKE valve, the top one, is all the way open (the rocker arm is pressed all the way down) stop rotating the engine
6. Loosen the locking nut (9mm) on the EXHAUST valve, the bottom one, and using a feeler gauge with oil on it, turn the adjuster screw until it is .005 inch...
7. Tighten the locking nut and re-check the gap to .005"

Then

8. Rotate the engine again, CLOCKWISE until the EXHAUST valve is fully open (the rocker arm is pressed all the way down)
9. Now adjust the INTAKE valve, the top one, and set it to .004 inch
10. Tighten the locking nut and re-check the gap to .004"
11. Replace the valve cover
12. Screw in the plug, replace the plug boot and start up the engine...

On some engines if you find there is too much valve tap, you can back it off these settings by .001 INCH.

Some people set both valves at .004 INCH…