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Post by Alleyoop on Jun 3, 2012 18:06:47 GMT -6
If the IDLE is bounceing IT IS LEAN you need to richen the Fuel Ratio Screw. When you first start it cold it should idle higher then in about 3-4 minutes the ENRICHER shuts off the extra fuel and during that time the idle should be coming down. Now if after 5 minutes of running the IDLE is bounceing then your LEAN. Alleyoop
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Post by mike6736 on Jun 3, 2012 18:38:23 GMT -6
Once you get to the fuel mixture screw start it as it is set, let it warm up and set the idle at 1,600 - 1,800 rpms. If it jumps around OK should run at that rpm warm. Than turn the fuel mixture screw out only 1/4 turn. Now it will take a few seconds so give it time and see what the RPMs do, you may have to lower the idle, set mixture till ou get max RMP, than I normaly just lean it a touch. I idle around 1,800 rmps and have 13.7 volts charging the batters so I like it
Mike
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Post by tierod on Jun 4, 2012 1:34:55 GMT -6
What is the valve gap on these engines, I have seen all different numbers
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Post by rapidjim on Jun 4, 2012 7:16:46 GMT -6
.004 intake and exhaust
Jim
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Post by tierod on Jun 4, 2012 8:24:10 GMT -6
Thank you Jim
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Post by mike6736 on Jun 4, 2012 10:51:15 GMT -6
I have always used .004 intake and ,005 exhaust. The exhaust was requiring too much adjustments always closeing
Mike
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Post by rapidjim on Jun 4, 2012 14:27:43 GMT -6
Either setting is good. I should have qualified my answer, but that is what I always do as rule of thumb unless I have a problem child then open the exhaust to .005.
Jim
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Post by tierod on Jun 4, 2012 15:18:00 GMT -6
Well mine was right on the money. What a pain to get to alot of flareing in the way. That little plug was easy but I have not tried it out yet. I hope it does not give me a hard time when I go to adjust it. The four screws that go on the bowl cover look a lot harder to get out but have no need to change main jet right now, I f anything I will try the clip and needle thing. Has anyone used the washer trick under the c clip deal and make the main spring shorter. Here is a wire I found just laying there can't find another wire to hook to it. I am thinking neutralswitch does any one know if the 300's have that. It says in the manual indicator is on dash for neutral. Jim what you think? John
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Post by mike6736 on Jun 4, 2012 15:47:18 GMT -6
John you should be fine with just fuel mixture... I went thru jet changes and all that and ended back to the stock one, work fine here a t sea level.
Jim.. that was a 2 cent KICk...But I is a problem child all right. . . Momma says I will never change
Mike
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Post by tierod on Jun 4, 2012 21:40:52 GMT -6
Mike where did you buy the jets from and what size was the stock one? What you think about the wire I found? By the way I adjusted the carb and and all seems fine. Now I know most of everthing has been taking care of, just found a front small blub out not working will take care of it tomorrow to tired. John
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Post by mike6736 on Jun 4, 2012 22:44:16 GMT -6
I don't remember the jet sizes but for here in Florida stock is right. They are cheap and if you want to put it on an take it off you can get the jets in sets ceap mon line. I got mine at a scooter shop in St Pete. Have you not got your tags yet? By the way my insurance on the Magnum is $97 a year is Progressive and for my Honda, Magnum and Electric Car it is the total is is under $300. I do not know what that wire is but that hose clamp shound be gone and a wire tie on it
Mike
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Post by tierod on Jun 5, 2012 17:53:01 GMT -6
Done after picture. New problem is starting and I think it's the battery! When I first go and start after sitting for awhile I get like a bad battery a slow crank maybe no crank. I hit the button a few times like you would if it was a car and then it starts. Let it run awhile and all is good till it sits a few hours. I checked for draw and to see if charging like Jim said in his post way back and everything checked out ok. I just can't believe that the battery can be bad in two weeks time. I had read that they are garbage but not that bad. The build date was 5/2011 so I wonder if the battery sat that long could have gone bad. I had to put the acid in so it was dry when I got it, worked fine for a week. Acts like when the timing is to far advanced and cranks hard when hot, but mine is cold. Is timing adjustable on them? Almost forgot Thanks Jim for helping me the ac/dc thing it was DC. John
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Post by Alleyoop on Jun 5, 2012 18:35:18 GMT -6
Well here is the thing starting it takes a lot of juice from the battery and if you don't ride it for around 30 minutes or so at a good clip it will not charge you battery back up. So I suggest get yourself a trickle charger, a real good one that monitors the battery and keeps it up is this little beauty. Alleyoop www.pacificbattery.com/batterytender0123.html
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Post by tierod on Jun 5, 2012 23:51:49 GMT -6
Alley I went to the link you posted for the battery charger and I saw a big charger JAC0512 it is at the bottom of the page. I have one like that but with a plug on the end. It was used for my mother-in-laws electric four wheel scooter that she used all over the house and out side. This charger was used to charge the scooter up. I have not looked at the specs on it but do you think I can use that instead of buying one? I would rather use the money on something else for my ride. All I would have to do is put clips on the plug end, what you think? John
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Post by Alleyoop on Jun 6, 2012 1:40:11 GMT -6
Sure that one will work it says Max is 5Amp so it also must go down to trickle charge which is what you want. You don't won't a fast charge. Alleyoop
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