Post by rurc on Jun 14, 2012 23:30:51 GMT -6
First I wish to thank everyone that gave advice on my coil problem I had.
This will be a step by step guide with photos giving very complete instructions as to everything I do (including mistakes) in this process. I am writing this as I do the job. So you may see parts and then a few days may go by before I get more done and up date.
This in going to be more than just a simple plug and play. Doing the HID will be the wiring challenge. You don't want HID lights to get shocks to their voltage systems. So since my E-Charm runs the head light all the time that will be a problem. There is not switch for the headlight. So my plan is to take the 2 light that run on the same wire harness as the headlight and change them into day time running lights. I will get 2 x 7 watt LED 194 style lights and wire them separately. Right now the E-Charm has a switch that will turn on and off the running lights. What I am going to do is wire that switch to turn on and off the new HID light. Then the other lights, as well as the 2 x 7 watt daytime running lights will be wired to always on. The HID is 35 watt (bi xenon).
At the same time I will also be changing all lights over to LED's.The total wattage usage after the change is complete will be less than how it was originally.
I have bought a used headlamp assembly to test the HID for melting, beam pattern, and fitment.
I do not know all the other scooters that use the same light set up as the E-Charm. But the CF Moto V3 and V5 and the Q-Link scooters also use this same light. I am sure there are others.
Any how lets get started;
I have done my research and learned a lot about HID and the supporting electronics they have. First when buying your system make sure the ballast is an AC type. Since we are dealing with a rather low power system AC output ballasts are much more stable voltage wise to the bulb. thus making the bulb and the ballast last much longer. I found mine on eBay for less than $40.00 complete with very good water tight connectors.
Any how here is how it arrived:
Once opened:
All the parts from the package:
Close up on ballast:
Close up of just lamp / bulb:
The following images are all done on the bench with a second Headlight assembly I have.
Lets get a good look at the housing:
Modifications:
Like I said above an H-4 is a very close fit but not perfect. Align the bulb with the large tab up and line that tab with the top notch on the housing. In the above image there are arrows pointing to the biggest problem. Using a marker indicate where the trim points need to be on the bulb. Do NOT trim the housing. This WILL violate the structural integrity of the retaining clip. Mark as shown:
To make the notches in the bulb I just used a good quality side cutter pliers and cut the flange on the bulb just to the first bend, about 1/16 of an inch. Once I cut both sides (4 cuts) I then used a pliers and bent the area between the cuts I just made and bent the flange up toward the rear of the bulb.
Note that the bulb will not sit down into the recess. This will not be an issue in later steps we will seal this.
Once you have all this in line, using the existing locking wire lock the bulb in:
Look at this now from the front:
The next update will be the wiring and bench testing the light.
This will be a step by step guide with photos giving very complete instructions as to everything I do (including mistakes) in this process. I am writing this as I do the job. So you may see parts and then a few days may go by before I get more done and up date.
This in going to be more than just a simple plug and play. Doing the HID will be the wiring challenge. You don't want HID lights to get shocks to their voltage systems. So since my E-Charm runs the head light all the time that will be a problem. There is not switch for the headlight. So my plan is to take the 2 light that run on the same wire harness as the headlight and change them into day time running lights. I will get 2 x 7 watt LED 194 style lights and wire them separately. Right now the E-Charm has a switch that will turn on and off the running lights. What I am going to do is wire that switch to turn on and off the new HID light. Then the other lights, as well as the 2 x 7 watt daytime running lights will be wired to always on. The HID is 35 watt (bi xenon).
At the same time I will also be changing all lights over to LED's.The total wattage usage after the change is complete will be less than how it was originally.
I have bought a used headlamp assembly to test the HID for melting, beam pattern, and fitment.
I do not know all the other scooters that use the same light set up as the E-Charm. But the CF Moto V3 and V5 and the Q-Link scooters also use this same light. I am sure there are others.
Any how lets get started;
I have done my research and learned a lot about HID and the supporting electronics they have. First when buying your system make sure the ballast is an AC type. Since we are dealing with a rather low power system AC output ballasts are much more stable voltage wise to the bulb. thus making the bulb and the ballast last much longer. I found mine on eBay for less than $40.00 complete with very good water tight connectors.
Any how here is how it arrived:
Once opened:
All the parts from the package:
Close up on ballast:
Close up of just lamp / bulb:
The following images are all done on the bench with a second Headlight assembly I have.
Lets get a good look at the housing:
Modifications:
Like I said above an H-4 is a very close fit but not perfect. Align the bulb with the large tab up and line that tab with the top notch on the housing. In the above image there are arrows pointing to the biggest problem. Using a marker indicate where the trim points need to be on the bulb. Do NOT trim the housing. This WILL violate the structural integrity of the retaining clip. Mark as shown:
To make the notches in the bulb I just used a good quality side cutter pliers and cut the flange on the bulb just to the first bend, about 1/16 of an inch. Once I cut both sides (4 cuts) I then used a pliers and bent the area between the cuts I just made and bent the flange up toward the rear of the bulb.
Note that the bulb will not sit down into the recess. This will not be an issue in later steps we will seal this.
Once you have all this in line, using the existing locking wire lock the bulb in:
Look at this now from the front:
The next update will be the wiring and bench testing the light.
This one's headed to the tech library when your all done and everybody's had a chance to ogle it. Rich
