Ice Bear News By rapidjim (Read 1,206 times)

[rapidjim]

Well another year is almost gone. Once again this year Ice Bear sent me a survey asking me to rate their products and personel, problems we might be having and suggestions to improve their product.

After I took some time to give them a constructive answer, I got a phone call from one of the higher ups. I had made a comment that I have customers that would like to see reverse put back on some of the larger 150 body styles. To my surprise, I was the only one, so far, to mention that and they liked the idea. That request will be forwarded to the factory. Hopefully, next year there will be a 150 model with reverse.

If any of you have constructive comments that you would like to see, please fell free to answer here, PM or email me.


Jim/Owner
Rapid Repair

[Alleyoop]

Yes,
1.
Extend the end of the axle with the splines so the HUB grabs more of the axle splines. Reason is if the axle moves out a little the only thing ON SOME that stops the axle from coming out is the "C" Clip. So when it moves out the HUB end is wobbling on the axle and ruins the hub splines. Maybe they can add a Bearing that rides on the side of the ACTUAL WHEEL BEARING and the 'C" clip right up to it so the AXLE will not move out.

Better Idea I think is EXTEND the WORM GEAR SLEEVE out onto the AXLE and have SETPIN OR SCREW through the WORM GEAR SLEEVE and into the AXLE that way the AXLE will not move out at all and have a access hole in the TUBE to take it out to be able to pull the axles out.
That was one of the FIRST things I tried to do I have a DRILL HOLE about HALF INCH next to the Differential but then I found that the WORM GEAR SLEEVE only extends to the outside edge of the Differential Case.

I believe now they all have the FLOATING RING about 4 inchs from each end of the axle tube held in place with two bolts and they welded a piece of pipe right next to it to stop the axle from moving out further.

Back in 2009 when they first came in to the US when I bought two of them I had a lot of trouble with the axle moving out and the wheels wobbling. I complained and they wanted pictures which I sent them and 3 months later they Added those Floating Rings and sent me a complete UPGRADED axle.

2.
One big pain in the arse is the FLOAT in the TANK it is so CHEAP it falls apart I have changed it 3 TIMES. They should make the FLOAT out of COPPER or something BUT NOT PLASTIC.

3.
For the US CHANGE the SPEEDO to MPH NOT KM/H, Mine has KM/H on the outside and tiny BLUE inside for MPH you cannot see the numbers especially with the RED tint glow. At night you can see but not in the bright sun. Or have some way to change it or a Decal to overlay it or something.

4.
How about a more powerful motor I think they at least need 200ccs the trikes are heavy.
5.
A little wider track in back
6.
Make the tanks hold at least 4 gallons. I cannot complain about mine because mine is in front and holds 4.7 gallons.

7.
How about a ACCESS DOOR in front of the VALVE COVER to make it easy to ADJUST the valves and change out the plug.
I think that is it for NOW (HAHA).

I think they should work on the AXLE part that causes a lot of problems for the CUSTOMERS especailly the ones that are not mechanically inclined.

As for the REVERSE the 150s are really easy to push around I never use the Reverse on mine and I have it adjusted and it works. But when I first got it I used to use it and found that the CABLE STRETCHS and then you have the gear meshing problem inside.
To help fix that to have some forgiveness either way when adjusting have THE GEARS it meshs with WIDER.
Right now it takes maybe a 1/4 of an inch either way and if your NOT right on the gears do not fully mesh and you get the JUMPING AND SHUDDERING and if not adjusted will ruin the gears.
Alleyoop

[tierod]

I know I am going to catch hell for this but you asked: I would like to see better ROUND tires, gas floats that don't stick, fuel injection, a battery that lasts longer then a few months and some way to fix the cracking on rear decks and a belt drive instead of a chain, exhausts that don't break, grease fittings so you can grease the rear bushings or whatever. But most important don't keep sending the same bad part out that does not fix the problem only makes the owner more mad.If they have a problem with a part that keeps breaking fix it. Just my 2 cents

[rapidjim]

Dec 24, 2012 13:14:44 GMT -6 Alleyoop said:

Yes,
1.
Extend the end of the axle with the splines so the HUB grabs more of the axle splines. Reason is if the axle moves out a little the only thing ON SOME that stops the axle from coming out is the "C" Clip. So when it moves out the HUB end is wobbling on the axle and ruins the hub splines. Maybe they can add a Bearing that rides on the side of the ACTUAL WHEEL BEARING and the 'C" clip right up to it so the AXLE will not move out.

Better Idea I think is EXTEND the WORM GEAR SLEEVE out onto the AXLE and have SETPIN OR SCREW through the WORM GEAR SLEEVE and into the AXLE that way the AXLE will not move out at all and have a access hole in the TUBE to take it out to be able to pull the axles out.
That was one of the FIRST things I tried to do I have a DRILL HOLE about HALF INCH next to the Differential but then I found that the WORM GEAR SLEEVE only extends to the outside edge of the Differential Case.

I believe now they all have the FLOATING RING about 4 inchs from each end of the axle tube held in place with two bolts and they welded a piece of pipe right next to it to stop the axle from moving out further.

Back in 2009 when they first came in to the US when I bought two of them I had a lot of trouble with the axle moving out and the wheels wobbling. I complained and they wanted pictures which I sent them and 3 months later they Added those Floating Rings and sent me a complete UPGRADED axle.

2.
One big pain in the arse is the FLOAT in the TANK it is so CHEAP it falls apart I have changed it 3 TIMES. They should make the FLOAT out of COPPER or something BUT NOT PLASTIC.

3.
For the US CHANGE the SPEEDO to MPH NOT KM/H, Mine has KM/H on the outside and tiny BLUE inside for MPH you cannot see the numbers especially with the RED tint glow. At night you can see but not in the bright sun. Or have some way to change it or a Decal to overlay it or something.

4.
How about a more powerful motor I think they at least need 200ccs the trikes are heavy.
5.
A little wider track in back
6.
Make the tanks hold at least 4 gallons. I cannot complain about mine because mine is in front and holds 4.7 gallons.

7.
How about a ACCESS DOOR in front of the VALVE COVER to make it easy to ADJUST the valves and change out the plug.
I think that is it for NOW (HAHA).

I think they should work on the AXLE part that causes a lot of problems for the CUSTOMERS especailly the ones that are not mechanically inclined.

As for the REVERSE the 150s are really easy to push around I never use the Reverse on mine and I have it adjusted and it works. But when I first got it I used to use it and found that the CABLE STRETCHS and then you have the gear meshing problem inside.
To help fix that to have some forgiveness either way when adjusting have THE GEARS it meshs with WIDER.
Right now it takes maybe a 1/4 of an inch either way and if your NOT right on the gears do not fully mesh and you get the JUMPING AND SHUDDERING and if not adjusted will ruin the gears.
Alleyoop

1. I think they have fixed the axel issues in the 150s, but will forward your idea to them.

2. I will send this also. I don't know that they will change this, I have looked elsewhere and have not been able to find anything but plastic. I don't think this applies to you however, using ethonol blender fuel will cause issues.

3. Speedos have gone to digital on the 150s and 300s. A button changes them from KPH to MPH.

4 Way ahead of you on this one Alley. I already mentioned that to them.

5,6 and 7. Good ideas will forward.

Jim

[rapidjim]

Dec 25, 2012 9:48:18 GMT -6 tierod said:

I know I am going to catch hell for this but you asked: I would like to see better ROUND tires, gas floats that don't stick, fuel injection, a battery that lasts longer then a few months and some way to fix the cracking on rear decks and a belt drive instead of a chain, exhausts that don't break, grease fittings so you can grease the rear bushings or whatever. But most important don't keep sending the same bad part out that does not fix the problem only makes the owner more mad.If they have a problem with a part that keeps breaking fix it. Just my 2 cents

I am assuming your issues are personal and apply to your 300. So my answers apply to the 300s.

Tire issue has already been identified, some of them were on machines that had sat for awhile ( if I remmeber right your machine was bought before the upgrades, you didn't want to wait. Gas float, not sure what you are talking about when you say sticking, I had a couple that hung up on the tank, removed them and installed them back in where they did not rub. I have already asked about fuel injection, may happen on the 300s, not sure but that will also raise the price. If you want fuel injection, get ahold of Mainepeace on the other board, he can hook you up. Batteries, luck of the draw I guess, seen some last for a long time others not so long. Cracking on rear decks has been addressed and changed on the last mod. Final drive belt was suggested, doubtful. Some more grease fittings were added on the last mod. along with a complete redesign of the exhaust.

As far as this comment "But most important don't keep sending the same bad part out that does not fix the problem only makes the owner more mad.If they have a problem with a part that keeps breaking fix it." I have no idea what you are talking about.

Jim

[jct842]

I would like to see the 150cc motor in all china scooters junked and an upscaled version of around 200cc replacing it. Keep it air cooled and just a tad bigger every thing. (that motor started out life at what? 110cc?) There would be a whole lot happier scooter people every where. Almost every one with a 150 try's to ride it on the highway and a 150 just does not have enough steam to ride in traffic at 55 safely. Then an over bore kit could be around 250cc.

[Alleyoop]

Dec 26, 2012 10:12:44 GMT -6 rapidjim said:

2.
One big pain in the arse is the FLOAT in the TANK it is so CHEAP it falls apart I have changed it 3 TIMES. They should make the FLOAT out of COPPER or something BUT NOT PLASTIC.
Alleyoop

2. I will send this also. I don't know that they will change this, I have looked elsewhere and have not been able to find anything but plastic. I don't think this applies to you however, using ethonol blender fuel will cause issues.
Jim

How about floats made out of Nitrophyl they use those in Car Carb Floats and can handle the ethanol stuff.
Alleyoop

[royldoc]

Some of us live in a states with laws that require 10% or more ethanol. So this may be a problem for a lot of us.


Roy

[rapidjim]

Roy,

Check your local gas stations, some have non ethonol premium for motorcycles and vintage cars. We have the same ethonol laws here but non ethonol is available for that use.

Jim

[rapidjim]

Dec 26, 2012 12:11:17 GMT -6 Alleyoop said:

Dec 26, 2012 10:12:44 GMT -6 rapidjim said:

2. I will send this also. I don't know that they will change this, I have looked elsewhere and have not been able to find anything but plastic. I don't think this applies to you however, using ethonol blender fuel will cause issues.
Jim

How about floats made out of Nitrophyl they use those in Car Carb Floats and can handle the ethanol stuff.
Alleyoop

That is true alley but you still will have ethonol eating your rubber lines from the inside out.

Jim

[jct842]

As far as ethanol goes, this year with drought and short corn crops I wonder if that has much to do with the drop in gas prices.

Besides eating up the inside of our gas lines and messing up small carburetors it sure doesn't do family's on short budgets for food/

There just has to be a better solution than ruining fuel with it. john