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Post by Alleyoop on Sept 2, 2013 0:28:35 GMT -6
Watch these VIdeos they are not for a 250 but they are all the same just different gears inside they are multiple videos so just follow them #2,3 ,4 etc Alleyoop
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Post by Bashan on Sept 2, 2013 5:57:16 GMT -6
Yes, KZ did replace a transmission shaft but I don't think it was that one. I'll send him a PM and a link to this thread. As long as you don't mess with replacing the bearings it's simply disassemble and reassemble. The parts only go together one way. You may have to tap the shaft out of the transmission cover. Use a wood block and a small hammer. Order the part, we'll help you assemble it.
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Post by kz1000st on Sept 2, 2013 8:16:27 GMT -6
I totally recommend buying that shaft from Parts for Scooters. Theirs is much better made than all the rest. It's a really simple job to replace, so ask away. I did mine in less than 4 hours with a break for lunch. www.partsforscooters.com/180-117-Drive-Shaft?sc=38&category=138815I ordered this shaft and it arrived in less than 48 hours, Florida to upstate New York. They also carry the variator parts and rollers. www.partsforscooters.com/scooter-parts-diagrams/250cc-172mm-4-Stroke-Gearshift-Assembly_3You need an impact gun to make it easier. Nice picture of the bell housing with shaft end. Brrrrrrrr, does that bring back memories. According to an Admin on another forum CF Moto subcontracted out that part during the 2008 scooter boom. The Sub produced defective parts that didn't turn up in source inspection and owners got "The Shaft". I have 3500 miles on my PFS shaft and it's still going strong. You may have to tap the shaft out of the transmission cover. Use a wood block and a small hammer. Order the part, we'll help you assemble it.What he said. I used the 4X4s bordering my driveway to get it out, watch the dowel pins, I lost one, and my porch post to hold the cover when I drove the new shaft in. A dead blow mallet works great. You'll also knock the thrust washer out of location for the intermediate gear doing this job. I used grease to hold it in place but still used a few choice words to get it to stay.
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Post by cookees on Sept 2, 2013 9:04:55 GMT -6
We've seen this three times in the past 6 years.... and the first one was mine. All were replaced under warranty. Something about 'Bad castings". But with the bozo's now running CFMoto...good luck.
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Post by jenningsjosh on Sept 2, 2013 10:55:15 GMT -6
Ok.. I have to have it hauled home today.. I am about 30 miles from home..
Before I order it.. I wanna get it out and make sure I am ordering the correct one. Will update tonight
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Post by kz1000st on Sept 2, 2013 11:28:06 GMT -6
We've seen this three times in the past 6 years.... and the first one was mine. All were replaced under warranty. Something about 'Bad castings". But with the bozo's now running CFMoto...good luck. The good thing is that this shaft is available everywhere and at a reasonable price. It's not a bad job. Remember to torque the cover bolts at 14 lb. ft. in an X pattern BTW.
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Post by jenningsjosh on Sept 2, 2013 13:10:10 GMT -6
Does the torque really matter on the cover?.. seriously.. I will bit most stuff I just put back to german specs.. gootentight
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Post by kz1000st on Sept 2, 2013 13:30:47 GMT -6
I'm talking about the cover on the transmission, not the outside variator cover. I only recommend the torque on that cover because I always flinch at oil leaks, want the bearing to sit straight on the shaft, want the shaft straight on the seal and I have a real nice Craftsman 1/2 drive torque wrench that I'm always looking for an excuse to use. Also I would hate to strip a bolt. After cracking the cylinder head on my GY6 I'm less inclined to use "Gootentight" these days, but do what you're comfortable with. Here's a good tutorial on what you're working on. mpsracing.net/technical/helix-manual/09-00.html
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Post by bhinch on Sept 2, 2013 15:28:10 GMT -6
Did the clutch nut come loose or it looks like the hole is enlarged from being loose. Maybe a trick pic and can not tell for sure. Was just curious. Thanks...
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Post by kz1000st on Sept 2, 2013 17:13:58 GMT -6
Did the clutch nut come loose or it looks like the hole is enlarged from being loose. Maybe a trick pic and can not tell for sure. Was just curious. Thanks... If you look closely you can see the light spot in the center of the shaft. Probably from bad hardening. It probably creates a weak spot just waiting to happen.
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Post by jenningsjosh on Sept 2, 2013 19:18:07 GMT -6
The clutch nut is still very attached.. and yeah kz is correct. That dot in the middle is where is was weak.. and it just snapped off.. it's still very straight.. no wobble.. but I have pushed off homework big time this weekend.. time to work on it.. might get to scoot tomm but doubtful..
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Post by jenningsjosh on Sept 3, 2013 10:51:12 GMT -6
Now that i am looking at a shaft to buy... I notice mine does not have the splines at the end... I am thinking it is more like this one if you look at the end of my shaft compared to the one in top pic.. it seems to match up much better... Opinions? Thoughts? I know i need to just take it out and check it out... but thought i might ask
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Post by kz1000st on Sept 3, 2013 11:50:40 GMT -6
Nope, that's the final drive/axle shaft. This is what it looks like-honest. and this is the expensive Honda shaft I bought to keep in stock. The PFS shaft looked almost exactly like it. Been there, done that.
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Post by jenningsjosh on Sept 3, 2013 11:54:21 GMT -6
Ok.. but the groves about half way down shaft.. are not the same.. is that ok?
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Post by jenningsjosh on Sept 3, 2013 11:56:18 GMT -6
Your right..the splines were inside the clutch bell
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