Still not Charging back to round1 By damin69 (Read 13,595 times)

[damin69]

Yep found out the direct wire would not work. I just rand out and used a diode test on my DMM and both check out to be fine. I Arrrg. There has got to be a bad wire connection and it has to be there between the diode, Fuse box and Battery. I just can not find it. This is so frustrating.

I know electronics I went to school for electronic and mechanical design drafting but this is not like PCB design. I know the theory. After college I have been working in Civil design and High Voltage collector system design. This is a whole lot different ball game. Trouble shooting JUST SUCKS.

[damin69]

Checked that ground. All of the ground wires are nice and firm. I think I will do what you just suggested. I was thinking about that on the way into work this am. I have the whole wire harness pulled out right now so I think I will cut all that apart one by one and solder it all back together it has to be in that area withing that group of wires.

[damin69]

I was just talking with an electrical buddy of mine. And while talking with him I think I am rewire that whole charging circuit and by pass the the two plugs that are in that circuit and put a good fuse holder in and bypass the fuse box completly with a bit heavyer wire plus less plugs to cause resistance should take care of the problem. In Theory.

[Cruiser]

I did the same bench test and solder joint check out on my fan and ended up at between 55 and 60 watts. The fan was really pushing a lot of air though. It would be interesting to try the Linhai fan motor in place of the CfMoto to see if the cooling capacity is the same. It would also save about 2 amps of current which would probably cure a lot of the low charging complaints floating around the forums. Has anyone tried this? I know it would probably involve modifying the mounting bracket, but it could give a big boost to the charging output.

[damin69]

Ok I replaced that whole circuit right down to the PLUG that goes into the Regulator. SO Now right away when I start the scooter the voltage drop from 12.8 to about 12.3 then slowly climbs to about 13.2. Now this is actually consistent now. Is this enough voltage to sustain and charge?

[Alleyoop]

If thats at Idle that is good, what is the reading when you give it some revs, it should go higher.
Alleyoop

[damin69]

it holds about 12.8-13 at idel. and 13.2 ish at 5000.

[damin69]

I am running HID direct to battery.The original Light wiring just controls the Relay/control Module for the HIDs. Yes I have updated to LED on the Tail/Brake and Signals and the Lights beside the headlights.

Yes It drops when I start then I let it run and watch it climb back up to over 13 Volts. Also this is the first time I have actually had the voltage climb as I increased RPM. Before it always dropped. I have been running it until the fan kicks in and when the fan kicks in I have not been noticing any major drops in voltage while the fan is running.

[damin69]

I believe the primary problem was the brown and Yellow wire run that goes through the 6 wire plug and up to the 10A light fuse. But the brown wire connecting to the Regulator Positive was getting warm so replaced the plug and put spades on that make better connection than the original plug. I replaced the wire from the diode primarily to cover the whole charge circuit.

[Cruiser]

The CfMoto has a 18 pole stator. I can maintain 13.1 volts at 5000 rpm with my power hungry fan on (no headlights). With a better cooling fan and one headlight (35 watts), I will still be discharging. Time to start removing the plastic and do some circuit analysis. Looks like you're on the right track. No voltage change when the fan kicks in is a big accomplishment.

[yoster]

My personal thought is that the CFMoto has the higher wattage fan due to the terribly placed radiator.

I can hold barely 13v @ 5000rpm with fan on and both 35w headlights. Unfortunately I spend a lot of time at lights, and at a light with the fan on, I'm down around 12.3v or so. It's enough to let me drive the scooter around for about 4 days until I need to put it on the float charger overnight.

Still think it all comes back to the regulator, personally. Damin if you lived close I'd send you this one I have that holds 15v at idle 16.5 @ 5000rpm.. for 10 minutes until it overheats and shuts down. Proves that the stator has the juice, but these regulators don't seem to handle it correctly. I wish there was a way to custom make a regulator rectifier or something.

[zugzug]

There is. I bought a reg/rect for my 750 triple from this guy.
www.oregonmotorcycleparts.com/
If I remember right him and his daughter make them. Or did at one time anyway. It worked quite a bit better than stock. I think it cost $95 but was well worth the cost. Maybe we can talk to him and see what he can do. I know I wouldn't hesitate to buy from him again and I'm sure the many old/vintage bike owners that have purchased from him would say the same.
-Zug

[damin69]

Hmm so you think this 6 wire would put out better voltage than the stock chinoReqtoReg?
www.oregonmotorcycleparts.com/rectifiers3p.html

[zugzug]

Hey I sent Tony at Oregonmotorcycleparts a email to see if hes interested in making some reg/rect for the chinese scoots or if any of his current models will work with our scoots. Also told him to come on over and check us out if he needs to look at some of the wiring diagrams and such.
-Zug

[damin69]

Sweet Zug. That is a great Idea.