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Post by drahken on Nov 6, 2014 14:20:47 GMT -6
i had a problem, alleyoop has a good suggestion there, his test. uh, my bike was rich i found out. when id hold it wide open, itd run good, for a good half a mile maybe even a mile. but after it warmed up some and stuff, id be going along pegging it, held wot. then all of a sudden, bwaaooohhhh. if i didnt let off the throttle, usually, id hear a loud, pow from the exhuast. i was rich. i lowered the jet one size at a time until it didnt do that no more. i had a temp guage that told me my temps and i was all good. but id hold the throttle when this kept happenning, wide open, when itd happen then, evenutally like maybe 10 seconds later, not letting off the throtlte, to see what would happen. Pow. exhaust would go. backfire. figured, from the gassy smell, the smoke, and the freezing cold intake manifold temp when i touched it right when it done this, or short after after i stopped it to touch it, it was cold.
a thing you could do to check for fuel starvation, are you running clear gas lines? stop it as soon as it stops, and check the line to see if its empty.
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Post by drahken on Nov 6, 2014 13:34:23 GMT -6
video labeled moped problems 3 the 5th video.
if, that video is of the green line, its not running gas how it was running it in the video i guess.. 4th video, named moped. at the bottom almost of page 3.
thats all im seeing. im thinking in 5th video, that its the green line and its barely spurting any gas. so you've got no gas flow. but im not screwing with it anymore. get some good light, show the gas line. your bike doesnt run but we dont see the fuel pump operating correctly. i cant say your fuel pumps not hooked up right. do it.
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Post by drahken on Nov 6, 2014 2:53:28 GMT -6
Great, so it is working the VACUUM line goes on the SMOOTH CONNECTOR and the Black HOSE GOES on the KNURLED connector, It is pumping plenty of fuel. Alleyoop Right, but why won't it stay running ? Could the intake manifold have a crack ?? Should I check the gravity feed set up just to start eliminating stuff what is video 3 about? is it the green line that goes to the carb at the pump side? why is there no gas coming through it? i couldnt tell if i was looking at the purple or green line from the lighting, that was in it. if it pumps gas when its not on the bike the bike even runs, then why isnt it flowing on the bike?
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Post by drahken on Nov 6, 2014 2:33:19 GMT -6
cause my question is, how does it get any gas period.
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Post by drahken on Nov 6, 2014 2:31:27 GMT -6
ive figured it out. we've seen 2 different things here. the pump running. which that was about the most confusing video, of all. cause the bike was running. when it ran. and it ran, the same.
ive only watched your videos long enough to see, the bike start, leans out, quits, runs outta gas. then, i hear you crank it for about 15 more seconds then i turned it off. so thats all i watched.
and we've seen that. the bike run for 20 seconds, then quit. that, is about enough time for the bowl to empty. are you maybe perhaps, priming it to start it? filling the float bowl full of gas?
and the only line we've seen during it running at least as far as i can see, good, is the purple line you had coming from the intake. the gas that does come int it, is only seeming to barely, vibrate up into there. gas would pass by that hole and with, no suction or any thing at all going on on that line, since it runs to the gas tank line in on your fuel pump, teh gas is just sneaking in there.
trying hooking your lines up straight, and crank it over. if its pumping gas as you showed, you probably figured this out by now.
we havent proven any diaphrams are leaking, but its not a bad idea to think of that. just lets fix it one step at a time. though.
and now, im going to watch one of your videos all the way through. i will empty my bowels into my pants if i see it crank up after the first running for 20 seconds or soemthing. ahhh
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Post by drahken on Nov 5, 2014 23:55:22 GMT -6
i sorta dont see no fuel coming through that purple line. maybe your vacuum lines, i dont know if thats how that works, mines gravity petcock fed, that black line, dont know if you have vacuum and its not operating becuase of it. if it needs vacuum.. to operate, try sucking the vacuum line and hitting your starter button. just keep vaccum on the vacuum side line and it should operate the fuel pump. find out why theres no vacuum or why the lines not got nothing in it. your running on vapors
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Post by drahken on Oct 25, 2014 17:18:48 GMT -6
i took mine into a local tire place once, and said, could you bead this tire for me? and they took it to the back and done it and brought it back out to me.
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Post by drahken on Oct 24, 2014 0:39:46 GMT -6
ok. i went back over what your put. im just answering the part about the roller weights.
and you read somewhere else that it doesnt work?
it works for me. and you asked for an explanation. using a weight scale as a, blueprint, for how the cvt works. i cant figure out much more than that.
the belt should be taught,
you konw taught... tight, taught, on the cvt system. almost like the other pulley is hanging. then instaed of thinking of the drive pulley the one, thats hanging as spinning and some roller weights magically sliding theyre way up this ramp plate, on the back of the variator, just think of it as a weight scale. just start pulling. you could nail it to your wall. i made this imagery here for you to figure out how the cvt works. when you weigh it down, by pulling, its the same concept as the roller weights sliding up in the top of the variator because of centrifical force. but remember, the rear pulley slides like out, away from the other side when it drops down, like, i think CCW. same direction the belts spinning. too. at least on mine. it does anyway.
if you where to put a scale, like how they figure out how much a fish weighs, and hooked it to the belt, and pulled, on the scale. you could figure out what about of weight or ft/lbs since its worked.
of torque. figure out, rpms of motor, weigh, add up centrifical force. figure out when it shfts.
but whatever we just swap roller weights out until it runs. mine works pretty good. what ive heard is shift, right at powerband takeoff.
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Post by drahken on Oct 24, 2014 0:27:17 GMT -6
im not explaining for your benefit. trust whoever you want. you asked the question, how does a cvt work. cause you didnt know how it ran and didnt know if or why putting multiple weights in done anything.
as im telling you nothing will happen. ive put a spread, and thats all thats really talked about mixing weights. or, maybe some of the lingo im using too you might not get, like rollers, sliders.
mixing rollers and sliders., ...
anyway, you would since the variator spins like a plate, want to even and space out any mixed roller, "weights". roller weights is a things. weights" , is, just single rollers, each one individually.
you can do it just spread them, of course, even. who cares. and the spread, on weight distribution, ? i dont know. ive said i done 2 grams, a 2 gram spread, 7g 5g. as in my 6 weights, as in the scooter thingey roller weights", where 7's and 5's. 3 7s 3 5's mine took 6 roller weights. half, half.
ran ok, for me.
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Post by drahken on Oct 23, 2014 18:46:26 GMT -6
the whole weight pushing on the outside of the variator when it reaches a certain amount of force overcomes the contra spring in the rear driven pulley of your cvt.
if all the roller weights where one gigantic block. and you cut off a slice. its like instead of 6 x6 grams 36grams in your variator. itd be like 3x6 3x7 6.5 x 6 39grams... did i add that right?
see the rear driven pulley in the cvt is using the contra spring to keep the belt from going down in the back. and its going to take so much force. if you took it off and wrapped the belt around the driven pulley maybe.. like, nailed it to the wall, and then grabbed the belt and pulled it to the bottom of the driven pulley thing. if you where to take a scale. it would take. so many ft lbs.
the front shifts it by the roller weights in that variator with the ramps. the centrifical force, when it spins, adds up to ft/lbs. of troque. when you get up to your driven pulleys give point, the freaking variator shifts, and off you go into 2nd gear.
ive mixed max for me 7 gram and 5 grams roller weights. that much of a difference.
see if youy took and pulled the belt to the bottom of the driven pulley. and used a scale, and figured it took 50ft /lbs, a random number, ok. so no matter wht it takes 50 ft/lbs until the spring in the back starts to wear and become weaker.
so it doesnt matter if you pull the belt by hand, at 25ft/lbs and someone else you get to help you does it too, at 25ft/lbs. the freaking driven pulley is going to be shifted. if you do it yourself its the same. so it doesnt matter.
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Post by drahken on Oct 23, 2014 17:01:50 GMT -6
make sure to fully install the exhuast, sit it up on the bike and tighten your mounting bolts and all that, do the flange bolts last. and make sure your exhaust studs and nuts arent bent.
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Post by drahken on Oct 19, 2014 23:00:01 GMT -6
18psi in hte front and 32psi or something, in the back. the front doesnt have no weight on it, and you need it for the tread. your riding on with a balloon in the front if you pump it up that much.
and my service manual on my 50 cc honda says that for my 10 inch rims and ive seen it labelled for others.
and, if you replace the valve stems, get some 45 degree angle ones, but you dont have to if yours looks good, ehm so that you can get gas station air pump nozzle things on your tires.
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Post by drahken on Oct 17, 2014 21:26:58 GMT -6
where it was raining in from the warped plastic, where you marked it, it would rain over top of, the exhaust connecting to the motor, a few wires maybe coming from the stator, the magneto would get rain over the fan shroud area, mihgt drip a little on your stator, not much else, but the exhaust pipe, whatever wires could be in that area. anything under their metal that could get wet.
best thing to do, was just do something under so the water is directed to the plastic, or back and down on the road away from the exhaust to keep metal from getting dripped on.
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Post by drahken on Oct 17, 2014 9:29:41 GMT -6
see, i had a motor and had a extra parts bike. my motor, i needed a crank, and my left case half i had stripped a few bolt holes. it worked. i just decided that thta bike had a good crankshaft that spun fine, and a clean left case half. thought id swap.
crank, for some odd reason had half a millimeter of material missing from the seal part where the crankcase seal sealed, around it, on the lip. supposed to measured out at 20mm and was 19.45-19.5mm. all i done was a little vinegar soak, (4hours) and a little wd40 and brillo pad, to shine it back up after hearing, and seeing vinegar dulled it. and wondered. but the arm was supposed to measure, 14mm. and measured 13.95. .. i didnt brillo there as much? dont know didnt retest it. i did compare these measurements to my crank i had just took out and the 19.45 was off from the 20.00mm i measured off my crank. the 13.95 wasnt off too much at the 14mm i pretty much measwured off the other.
anyway, whatever. i figured the cases came off a machine and they would fit each other. so i didnt test fit the cases together or nothing, looked clean.
but when i went to set them together, like test fit, when the motor was hot and i was sealing the case, it just wobbled on it. wouldnt sit together flat. so i just somehow, tightened the bolts together.
thats what i found when i tore it back apart. something was going on, it wouldnt stay running, after 10 miles.
the crank was blowing air. and i was test fitting the cases, after having to hold them together and just finger tighten the bolts in.
the thing was, i was using the right half of my motor which was good. and the crack, between the 2 halves, the 2 cracks where sucking in air. and little rocks. and starting to pit my case. if i hadnt of looked, it would of pitted my right case half up to where it wouldnt seal no more and i wouldnt have a flat, smooth seal area around my 2 case halves.
soo, good thing i checked. i still got my left case side. i retap the holes and stuff. or thread insert. my right case half is fine, just a couple of pit marks. its good i checked it and didnt keep running it. plus i was seeing black oily stuff starting to blow out on the side, of the motor. made me think air leaks, thought maybe my sealant didnt seal. but thought its too big of a hole, and the problem i had. need to check it.
10 more miles that case half might not of sealed.
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Post by drahken on Oct 15, 2014 21:23:53 GMT -6
tried to get the motor back out to take pictures, but its so wobbly it wont sit down straight.
the crankshaft was warped, wasnt turning straight. i thoght maybe i installed it messed up.. the wobbling where i couldt set them straight i was doing that when i installed the motor. done the build. i didnt have the bolts laying around and hunted them down for a minute but the motor was still, rocking. .. i didnt even know if i had th ebolts straight, i just tightened them straight down. torque value. think the space was actually sucking in small rocks. i havent looked over the cylinder, maybe i looked in it. after i took the one hafl of the motor off, I spun the crank and seen it wobbling both, ways. could tell pretty easy. the variator side bearing, got shot. thats how it spun after i took off the fan side of the motor. it was dirty between where the cracks where. and i noticed, some pitting, on my case. its alright though. more pitting, than before. though. thats the thing and it sucks. and i think i may of took a little look in the cylinder, and it was fine. only rode it 10 miles. crankshaft, had lost, .5mm of material, from what? i dont know, around where the seal, spins.
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