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i was thinking it was too big of a crack to be usable. it had a line on the bottom and when i pulled it apart after 10 miles there was dirty and it was dirty around there. i thought it was blowing out oil there. and theres another spot too,

this motor was overheated. the topend bend the head gasket. the rings broke. dont know about this case. maybe test an old crank in it. and it would be a lot of block sanding. the cracks of light are like not small enough but the one goes for like 3 inches so you can, see how much it would be cracked, its not that much. though. its not that bad, but id say 2 1/2 inch of light. you can see the light though its not like barely, peeking through, its a small deformed, spot.

i was wondering about the heat and stuff. thats not where the top end is or where the explosion is, but i wonder how hot it is there.

adjust valves when cold.

clutch pads. and clutch bell.no pads left. buy new clutch pads and, bell, if its grinded into. if its not much. how much grinding, if its losing power the bell, when it spins, turns the back wheel.

maybe your mid needle is lean and your main jet, full throttle is rich. it started to slow down? what did it do as you held it floored? was it running fine, then it started to make a bboooouugh sound? if it did, the next time, it doesnt hit or anything when it does that, doesnt fire a lick, if it does that, hold it, hold the throttle wide open there, where its at. If, then it starts to backfire and it pops out of your exhaust, then your rich. for sure.

id say it loads up after, however long on your ride, and then starts to get too rich. the bike goes because your lean on the needle to get you up to full throttle.

i had a bike, it ran a dellorto carburetor, and i ran it for a long time and it never showed overheating according to my cht gauge, or having, toooo badd of running issues.

make sure to tune the mixture right, and check needle height and main jet. dont know how many needles you got.
what needle clip setting are you at? thatd be a good question.

Before you do this, check what position the air?fuel mixture screws at, so you can return it to that, and have it so in case if it doesnt work better, you can adjust it back
To tune the mixture, make sure to, do it at right around 1800-2000 rpms. little high on idle speed. change the idle speed, with the idle speed screw, make it just a high idle rpm speed, 1800-200rpm. then, adjust your mixture adjustment screw, to get the highest idle rpm. if it starts to raise the rpms, as your adjusting, let it get a little higher then lower them back down to around what you started at, back with the idle adjust screw. then go back with the mixture screw adjusting. make sure your screw is somewhere between 1 1/4 turns out to not, a lot over 1 3/4 turns out. adjust for highest rpms. once got. use the idle adjust screw, again to lower the rpms back to a normal idle speed. like whatever you set yours at.

well the seal is kind of not very good shape now. and i didnt get a picture of it. just i know on , its leaking on 1, its leaking on the inner part of the crankcase seal. where it seals on the crank shaft arm. it would puff out air whatever i pumped in, it. and water would spew away from it. i used some calipers, and got them on it, and measured 19.4mm.. tahts what i got. the seal is a 19.4mm seal on the inside. the crank is supposed to measure 20mm. and theres no air seal.

anyone ever used another seal before? on a crankshaft or something that wouldt seal?


I have no idea why it, wont seal. why the cranks smaller, the other part of the arm i dipped, in vinegar, and brillo pad scrubbed it, twice to shine it up was all. the 3rd time i shined the crank i only done on the oil seal lip section. the arm is supposed to measure 14mm, on down it, where the variator goes on, and the arm, does measure 13.97 or something.

dont have no idea why its messed up like that. thats all ive done. has anyone ever used another oil seal, on something that the shaft isnt up to the same width before? and i dont know what took it out. i still, have another fresh crank, its not usuable but the measurements all are good though. ive measured it, and everything. it matches on the variator part the honda crankshaft, same 13.98 - 13.97mm. measured. the oil seal lip section though, the old one 19.88 and the new one, is showing 19.41 or something everywhere i check.

do you think itll be alright to use another crankcase seal with different measurement? think i should check the rest of the crank, that got stuck in vinegar. the rest of it, i havent went over, its ran fine. just the leak, and i think pretty much it was coming from there.