Doc's Anything Goes
Currently Offline
Posts: 270 
Likes: 32
Joined: Nov 10, 2014 10:58:09 GMT -6
|
Post by dmartin95 on Dec 30, 2014 14:05:14 GMT -6
the countdown begins.. 7 days to delivery (250cc 54b)... I'm accumulating scoot stuff for this scoot already.. new multimeter.. voltmeter.. cell phone holder.. new weather cover.. fake alarm LED.. ( will disconnect the attached alarm/remote start) ... now I'm down to fluids.. which i can get in moments notice... and LEDs for lights.. signals... this is where i need help now.. can someone supply specific LEDs info product number.. for headlight turn signals and brake light? .. something i can go to eBay with and order there? Hi, go to walmart and Buy 4, 1156 15 surface mount LED lights. You will need one 1157 for your brake light.... If your license plate has a separate bulb and does not get its light from a clear section of your brake lens, you can get the RED LED... If your plate does get light from your tail-light, you will need white.... I just did this to my scooter and the flasher relay works just fine..... If you go with a different kind, it's possible you will have to change out your flasher relay.... The 1156 and 1157 are truly plug and play and will more than likely outlast the life of your scooter. |
|
Doc's Anything Goes
Currently Offline
Posts: 270
Likes: 32
Joined: Nov 10, 2014 10:58:09 GMT -6
|
Post by dmartin95 on Dec 29, 2014 17:38:33 GMT -6
NewEgg market place sent me an advertisement email and Killer Motorsports is offering a 50cc TaoTao to the door for $599.00 That's the cheapest I have ever seen for a brand new, drop shipped scooter. LINK: |
|
Doc's Anything Goes
Currently Offline
Posts: 270
Likes: 32
Joined: Nov 10, 2014 10:58:09 GMT -6
|
Post by dmartin95 on Dec 29, 2014 17:25:39 GMT -6
 okay so i have all three wires now... I think you still have a missing ground. The 150cc's I have worked on so far all have had the same connections to the battery. You should have your two reds, which look correct in your pictures. On your ground terminal you should also have two wires... A heavy gauge black one that goes to the frame, and one ground that runs off into your wiring harness. It most likely will be a green wire. You have to find your missing ground. If you can't find your missing ground just make a new one as all your grounds should be connected to the same circuit. Your ground wires will likely be green...NOT BLACK. In these Chinese scooters, Black can either be 12V+ Acc line, or ground... so you have to be careful.... Easiest way to tell is with a continuity (or multi-meter) tester. To test continuity, Hook one end up to bare metal on your frame (You can not use anything painted), then poke your wires until you get a beep or light, depending upon what tool you use. |
|
Doc's Anything Goes
Currently Offline
Posts: 270
Likes: 32
Joined: Nov 10, 2014 10:58:09 GMT -6
|
Post by dmartin95 on Dec 29, 2014 2:36:17 GMT -6
 okay so i have the other part but i need the piece that connects to the other side of the fuse. I have some lying around but i dnt knw where. Grrrr!  ? lol Yep, that'll do it... You will probably have to solder the "little piece" to your wire however.... Or you can just go to Walmart or an AutoParts, or really anywhere that sells electrical stuff and buy a blade fuse connector... They're way better than the kind your working with and only cost a couple of bucks... Blade fuse holder:  |
|
Doc's Anything Goes
Currently Offline
Posts: 270
Likes: 32
Joined: Nov 10, 2014 10:58:09 GMT -6
|
Post by dmartin95 on Dec 29, 2014 1:55:55 GMT -6
 is this okay?? Yes, However, the end that is "bare", has to continue on to the battery... You also want to make sure you have the right size fuse. Too small, you'll constantly pop it, too large, you allow for wires to get burnt up in the event a component malfunctions. All 4 of my 150cc's have a stock, 10 AMP fuse, so that's what I recommend |
|
Doc's Anything Goes
Currently Offline
Posts: 270
Likes: 32
Joined: Nov 10, 2014 10:58:09 GMT -6
|
Post by dmartin95 on Dec 29, 2014 0:59:47 GMT -6
It should look like the picture: You will want to place the fuse as close to the battery terminal as you can (of course leave tolerance for cable to bend and mount to your terminal)  |
|
Doc's Anything Goes
Currently Offline
Posts: 270
Likes: 32
Joined: Nov 10, 2014 10:58:09 GMT -6
|
Post by dmartin95 on Dec 29, 2014 0:39:48 GMT -6
Remember I said your battery terminal will have two wires each? That wire goes to your R/R, other end to + battery terminal... That in your hand is one half of a fuse connector.... YOu can get a blade fuse holder from any auto store and just run a new 10 amp fuse. Also, don't forget, your negative terminal should have two wires also... One going to the chassis, one to your main harness. If you don't ground your harness, nothing will work. |
|
Doc's Anything Goes
Currently Offline
Posts: 270
Likes: 32
Joined: Nov 10, 2014 10:58:09 GMT -6
|
Post by dmartin95 on Dec 29, 2014 0:37:49 GMT -6
So i found a wire and idk where it goes? ?? What color is it? That may give me an idea.... Also, you should be able to trace any of the wires using a continuity tester, or just visually trace them... IF they go to a component you don't recognize, post a pic..... In no time someone will tell ya what it is... |
|
Doc's Anything Goes
Currently Offline
Posts: 270
Likes: 32
Joined: Nov 10, 2014 10:58:09 GMT -6
|
Post by dmartin95 on Dec 29, 2014 0:18:41 GMT -6
Okay so i have the wires replaced and put back. So all thats let is to use one of the batteries i have to test and see if she starts. Good luck!!  |
|
Doc's Anything Goes
Currently Offline
Posts: 270
Likes: 32
Joined: Nov 10, 2014 10:58:09 GMT -6
|
Post by dmartin95 on Dec 29, 2014 0:15:34 GMT -6
I must disagree, the stator makes a certain amount of current. A bigger battery does not pull more electrons out of the stator. The stator only moves so many electrons regardless of what's hooked up to it. If it doesn't move the electrons into a battery the energy is burned off as heat. So a big battery is just a well for the stator to dump energy into it. It is actually less stress on a stator to get rid of those electrons than burn them off as heat.
Ok, then I may be not understanding something correctly... I will try and relay what I was told, not trying to get into a pissing match....A DC generator will act as a variable current generator, more RPM, more Juice, the two will ramp in a linear fashion... But an AC generator does not ramp in the same fashion. The black wire in the regulator/rectifier is your 12volt detection wire and tells your stator when to charge your battery and when not to, it is not like a DC generator that "makes a certain amount of current"...... That "heat" is actually dumped into the ground VIA the R/R, so the AC stator is not actually generating that constant heat like a DC generator. Add a bigger battery, then your stator does generate more heat.... Actually, It's been a while since I had this explained to me and what I'm saying in this post could be totally wrong. All I know is this seasoned mechanic told me the over-sized battery was killing my alternator, got a new battery, and never had the problem again.... I can not accurately explain why.... Good thing is, the mechanic is a friend and I can ask him tomorrow. So, |
|
Doc's Anything Goes
Currently Offline
Posts: 270
Likes: 32
Joined: Nov 10, 2014 10:58:09 GMT -6
|
Post by dmartin95 on Dec 28, 2014 23:29:07 GMT -6
Just thought I would rave about temp agencies.. I recently signed up for three more temp agencies and out of all three I got put to work a week later from one of them at an insulation plant that does 12 hour shifts 7am-7pm. This is the best job I have ever had from temp agency. There is an never ending conveyor belt of insulation But the temp agency got me started on labeling insulation with stickers. I pick up 25 bags fold them into a square and stick the stickers like a scrap book into the marks all day. I get three ten minute breaks and a paid 45 minute break. I will try and get a video of the blade that cuts the insulation soon. Just a scattered rave that I thought someone might like. I work mon-tues and then fri. So, If I say good job, or keep up the good work, do I get banned for the lamest pun of the year?  |
|
Doc's Anything Goes
Currently Offline
Posts: 270
Likes: 32
Joined: Nov 10, 2014 10:58:09 GMT -6
|
Post by dmartin95 on Dec 28, 2014 22:32:31 GMT -6
You need 7 amps but the more the merrier. While that's true for "starting" your scooter, running an over-sized (amp-hour) battery can cause the stator to be over-worked because it's constantly charging... Heat is the number one enemy of stators and having the coils constantly energized produces excess heat. I once had purchased an over sized battery for my car, and kept burning up alternators and couldn't figure out why... Took it to the dealership and the mechanic filled me in that the battery and alternator are rated for each other and the larger battery was over-working my alternator... I got the smaller battery, Viola... Never had an alternator problem again..... One thing to keep in mind, these scooters have 6, 8, 11 and 12 pole variations...But yet they mostly have 7Ah batteries, so there's obviously wiggle room in choosing a larger battery, I personally would not go beyond 9~11Ahr's with 11/12 pole, 7~9Ahr's with 6/8 pole..... |
|
Doc's Anything Goes
Currently Offline
Posts: 270
Likes: 32
Joined: Nov 10, 2014 10:58:09 GMT -6
|
Post by dmartin95 on Dec 28, 2014 22:19:56 GMT -6
I am not messing with the engine stuff just tracking down where the black amd red wires are to replace them for the battery. I just recently rebuilt a wiring harness and I bet you're going to have at a minimum, 2 wires per battery terminal. One Heavy gauge (14~16 gauge will do) Red cable going to your solenoid and one red coming from your regulator/rectifier to your + terminal on your battery (and possibly branching off to other hot circuits).... Your negative side post will have one heavy gauge cable going to frame (most likely black) and and one green wire running off into your harness for ground.... Granted, these scooters very wildly, but I have 4 150cc's and them 4 wires I listed are all the same. |
|
Doc's Anything Goes
Currently Offline
Posts: 270
Likes: 32
Joined: Nov 10, 2014 10:58:09 GMT -6
|
Post by dmartin95 on Dec 25, 2014 23:19:57 GMT -6
Operating temps vary with ambient air temps, and engine load. I can start scoot, warm it up for 4 to5 minutes, ride 6.8 miles for coffee, and the oil will only get to 180*. Might add that the first 3 of those miles, result in an elevation drop of 1,000 feet. Longer trips of say 12 to 20 miles result with oil temps leveling off at 220* or 230*. Get on a good climb and 240* to 250* is not uncommon. Have seen 260* on occasion, when pulling in the driveway, but it has to be a really hot day. If parked on center stand, and allowed to idle 5 minutes, you can watch the temp drop 15 to 20*.. These numbers are what I've experienced......I don't ride at WOT, if you do, I would expect higher temps. If you ride in 95 or 100 degree weather. I would expect higher temps. In late fall, with cooler weather, I had days that the oil didn't reach 200*. What an awesome post! I'm always in search of "real life" numbers..... A couple of months back, the Auto Stores clearanced out their line of sunpro mini gauges because they've been re-branded to Bosch. I purchased 4 sets of the 3 gauges and 2 vacuum gauges.... Long story short, one of the gauges is an oil temp gauge... It only registers upto 250* F.... Now you have me thinking I may need a gauge with a higher temp capability.... What temp range do you recommend?  |
|
Doc's Anything Goes
Currently Offline
Posts: 270
Likes: 32
Joined: Nov 10, 2014 10:58:09 GMT -6
|
Post by dmartin95 on Dec 12, 2014 12:42:16 GMT -6
Funny you would like a cv over a slide carb,,, I'm the other way in that,,, can't stand cv carbs,, I go to a slide as soon as I can,, the Stella has a direct carb but it's an antiquated design and too small for the application,, so I'm going up 3 mm larger with a freer exhaust that's it for this boat anchor ,,, You by chance have any experience with EFI (Electronic fuel injection)? I have been giving serious thought to getting an ecotrons efi to go with a 4 valve head.... $400.00 for the efi, another 275 if I want the ALM-S with gauge.... How well does a slide carb work compared to an EFI when speaking of speed performance? |
|
? lol
