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Post by JoeyBee on Jan 16, 2015 7:01:13 GMT -6
Thanks for the reply Alley. I might as well get a set to test. Worst case scenario I can use them as spares and diagnostics.
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Post by JoeyBee on Jan 16, 2015 6:56:58 GMT -6
It is going to be a combination of both the carburetor and variator weight. At stock my 150cc wouldn't pass 6000RPMs. No matter what.
But first after installing a tunable carburetor, rejetting, and following Alley's guide it raised to 7000RPMs. Next I changed my weights from 13grams to 12grams, I top out just below 8000RPMs. I am very happy with the results and how she runs.
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Post by JoeyBee on Jan 15, 2015 19:35:54 GMT -6
Has anyone done any testing on whether after market performance or racing CDIs and coils have any benefit over stock?
The one video I can find online found they were very similar to stock or less beneficial. Even just a gimmick. I understand NGK makes a better quality product, but it's not sold as a performance enhancer.
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Post by JoeyBee on Jan 10, 2015 18:31:01 GMT -6
Nice work Bee,,and thanks for the link too,,,,mixture is very important,,,this helps to get the maximum performance from these tiny engines,,,,they need every scrap of power they can get Your welcome for the link. I agree with this engines they need all the help they can get. For me I was also worried about running the engine too hot causing damage by a lean condition. That added engine protection was well work the money. One tip I have for anyone thinking about a similar installation is to throughly check all the connection points of the exhaust when welding on the sensor bung connection. When I was checking the entire length of my exhaust for leaks one was located where the factory made a connection after the first bend. Now I will have to remove the exhaust again and fix the factory's poor workmanship. It is not too bad, but according to the manufacturer's technical material this will slightly screw the readings during engine idling towards being leaning. When the engine is under load the reading should not be affected.
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Post by JoeyBee on Jan 10, 2015 8:40:48 GMT -6
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Post by JoeyBee on Jan 9, 2015 9:46:33 GMT -6
I'm not sure what type of unit of measurement he is using. I am going by A/F ratio (12.0 - 14.00). .045 is not even on the lambda scale. He did a very good job explaining when each jet is used, but very poorly on the wideband tuning.
I have been using a much better chart which even factors in the mandated 10% ethanol addition.
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Post by JoeyBee on Jan 9, 2015 4:03:01 GMT -6
dmartin95Thanks for the video. I have not seen that one yet.
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Post by JoeyBee on Jan 7, 2015 21:54:35 GMT -6
For the past 2 weeks I have been trying to fine tune a new carburetor for my TaoTao Powermax. It was running great but I was getting tired of constantly making slight adjustments to the A/F mixture screw then riding and making speed runs. I also wanted some detailed numbers of how my engine was running. So I decided to pony-up the cash for a wideband air/fuel sensor kit from Amazon. With a holiday promotion code, $120 to my door was a steal.
The installation was very easy. Only hard part was finding a buddy with a welder. To all the new members, the tuning guide by Alleyoop was perfect for idle (13.2 - 13.5). My WOT is hovering around 12.6 - 12.9, so I'm going to try a #115 main jet next to bring that down.
I installed the gauge inside the glove compartment to maintain a "stock" appearance.
This was the farthest place I could place the sensor. So far surface temperature of the pipe have reached 250F, but that's only 10 minutes of running on a very cold Texas day.
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