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Thanks Alleyoop. That is exactly one of the things I wish to do. But I am also looking for how the coolant yellow water also go into the system and appeared at the carb connection. For me, eliminating the general riding situation is but part of the problem. How and why are also in my curiosity. So that will require a bit of looking. Riding will happen real soon if I take a few days to satisfy my curiosity and look around a bit.

Your correction sounds to be OK so I have no fear right off of not riding soon. But for wasting near 6 months on this mess I have no concern about adding another week or two with looking around.

My concern now is trying to get back to riding soon as by June or July it gets way too hot for me to be riding around down here in Arizona's hot desert country. I really hate riding when it gets in the 100's and even up to as high as 115 and I believe one day it got to 117. Those numbers are really too hot for riding. If traveling, get going at first light and ride till noon. Then find a cool motel and get your sleep for next days run. Just my opinion.

OK, I will give it a try. Just don't know what I might have done as it was all under covers when this all began. The only two points that I see that I messed with were the two at the carb and the one at the fuel pump. But now I have all covers off, including the floor boards.

OK, I will look at that little black thing by the tank. It was once tied to the framework but that strap has now broken. And what was that big canister for? It also has a big hose that goes up to the motor and then onward. I will have to look at that tomorrow as I am now done with the scoot for today.

I hope you are right as I am getting pretty tired of messing with this problem after several years of fixing and little riding.

I will see what I can do. It sort of looks like a spaghetti pile. I have thought that myself. Just not sure where to change things so help is appreciated.

Once I get the sketch how to send it to you would be my question. I suppose I can run it from my printer into a file and then send the file to you. Another thing to learn for me but learning is possible even for us old folks.

How fast does not matter. I will work on the sketch till it makes sense and then send it to you. No guarantee of today at all. But as soon as it make sense I will send it.

Alleyoop, I thought I had sent you a note earlier but it is not here now. I must have left without saving. So I will do it again.

After I got done with driving the wife to shopping I was able to look at and run the scoot. So now I tell about the recent events and hope they help you when thinking of my machine.

I was having a problem with the starting so I took the vac hose off the AVC to see if anything was in the hose. Something wet but could not tell if gas, no odors I expected but maybe it was coolant then. Definitely something at the brass ACV tube.

So I tried to start the engine with the tube off and it did start and ran well. It was running fast enough that I could control the idle down a bit with the idle adjust screw on the carb.

It did blow lots of smoke from the exhaust manifold area and out the tail pipe too. Plenty of smoke but after a few minutes it started to clear and ended up running clean as it should. Fuel pump change the reason for that, or just running without the vac system connected at the ACV?

The black part of the enricher did get warm, not hot, as the engine was running.

I did not change the fuel ratio mixture yet as it is running well at the moment. The Honda manuals say not to change as it is a factory setup. I will not till other ideas fail, then anything goes.

Wondering now if this vac hose disconnected from the carb means anything special. As long as I leave the vac hose disconnected the engine seems to run well. If I put my finger over the vac hose end, the engine quits immediately. If I loosen another vac tube connection the engine keeps on running if I block this first vac tube. Not sure what I prove with that exercise.

Hoping your experience may learn something from my happenings.

Is the item you are speaking of called the Starting Enrichment Thermal Valve? If so I can check the resistance as the Honda manual says approx 10 ohms. I have two here, one on the machine and one in the garage on the second carburetor. If they both check out then maybe a physical check out may see something wrong. They are both near 10 ohms, actually about 8 or 9.

I am running without the air pipe installed. Could this cause a problem?

Interesting ideas but where would the vacuum lines get gas to suck up? I will look around for that possibility. I just took off the vac hose that connects to the back of he carb by the round looking thing. Could not restart as the battery was struggling to do so. So now on charger for a while. I could also go back to the original fuel pump to eliminate the fuel pump from the question block.

I also had the other carb running a couple days back and it also was belching black smoke. A real confusing mess. Maybe I should just spend some time, likely tomorrow or Tuesday, just thinking through the changes I have made and swapping them back if I still have the older parts around.

Yes I will go in and reset the fuel ratio screw.

Will include resetting the fuel ratio screw later. First I will change the fuel pump.

You do give me many things to think about and thank you.

OK, I am set up to do the none running setup. As before I have everything set up for adjusting, I think. My concern this time is about the setup as they say to line the mark, dimple in rotating part, with a triangle mark on the cover. I don't see a triangle mark on the cover, did not before either, so I just set it up as centered as I could in the hole itself.

So now I am rotating the engine to see if there is another center punch tool mark that I can find.

None found and I am back to the punch tool mark again. No triangle mark found but will try to set valves with the punch centered as best I can in the hole. Sure hope this works. If not I guess back to the setting while running. Which to me is just a lot of guesswork at best.

Will post a follow up after I do the valve settings.

And yes, this is the Honda Helix 244cc engine. Several requests but I kept forgetting. Maybe tomorrow will be a good day for me after I reset the valves again. I used the same method some time back because I have never felt good with the setting while running. But I have tried the setting while running since I did the physical spotting and then resetting one notch idea. So it could be anything right now. I also took your advise and set a bit looser for now. Only problem with the setting to the marks is taking the side cover off. Sometimes it is a bit of time getting those two screws relocated correctly so they can be tightened.