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Post by bob123456789 on Aug 26, 2016 14:05:02 GMT -6
I have just started using Valvoline 20W50 motorcycle oil from Wally world in my JCL MP250A. $4/quart. Not synthetic.
They also sell a synthetic Valvoline 20W50 motorcycle oil for $8.5/quart.
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Post by bob123456789 on Aug 23, 2016 18:00:29 GMT -6
I live in very hot humid climate with demanding traffic.
However, my scooter is liquid cooled which helps.
I don't have an oil temp gauge but do have a coolant temp gauge.
I would like to do everything I can to keep internal engine temps down and very well lubricated.
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Post by bob123456789 on Aug 23, 2016 12:08:46 GMT -6
Being new to this I have some questions about scooter oil. The my understanding that the key difference in motorcycle oil from regular engine oil is that the motorcycle has clutches in the engine which require different oil.
Do people use motorcycle oil or regular engine oil in their scooters?
RKS I see that you are using diesel motor oil. What is the idea behind that?
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Post by bob123456789 on Aug 20, 2016 9:00:24 GMT -6
From this reference picture of the other side of the carb (not my actual carb) it looks like nothing should be connected to A, B or C.  Does anyone know an easier way to reach the A/F screw other than going in on the right side over the hot muffler? |
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Post by bob123456789 on Aug 20, 2016 8:39:39 GMT -6
In these picture is there supposed to be anything connected at A, B or C?  |
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Post by bob123456789 on Aug 20, 2016 7:40:14 GMT -6
Here is some background on the carb A/F screw. This is the procedure I was attempting to follow. scooterdoc.proboards.com/thread/1499/4ts-carb-tuningThe screw is brutal to get to. It is on the bottom of the carb. The only way I could get to it on the right side was to lay down on my back reaching on top of the hot muffler and block. I could just barely reach it that way. There is no adjusting it while it is running so I was modifying the procedure so that after each adjustment I let it warm up again before I checked the idle speed. I moved the screw a significant amount in one direction and did not find any noticeable change in my rpm. Right now it is idling at approximately 1,000 rpm. Below is a picure of my carb in general:  Here is a picture of my specific carb:  So What should my next steps be? |
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Post by bob123456789 on Aug 19, 2016 9:42:36 GMT -6
Just wanted to update everyone. First I wanted to say a great big thank you to Jim for helping me find and solve the issue.
I got everything back together fairly quickly. A quick test on the stand and it appeared things were working on the center stand. I had to wait for the rain to clear up before I could take it for a spin around the neighborhood to give it the first test ride.
I just finished that test ride. I couldn't get it to accelerate on its own. It would bog down and didn't have any power.
One of the things I had messed with was the A/F screw on the bottom of the carb and the adjusting was never really finished. That screw is brutal to get to.
Where do I go from here? Are the performance issues related to the CVT or the A/F mixture screw? Could I not have the rollers back in correctly?
Jim I trimmed the one roller. The old rollers were 14 grams each. Luckily none were permanently damaged and I was able to reuse them. I put it together with no grease.
I'd really like to have fun riding it.
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Post by bob123456789 on Aug 16, 2016 11:08:09 GMT -6
What's the best way to put it all back together while making sure that the rollers stay in the right place?
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Post by bob123456789 on Aug 16, 2016 8:53:42 GMT -6
I am so glad to finally find the problem! Thanks for your help Jim! In general the old rollers don't have flat spots. I can maybe see two slight ones. One of the rollers has a small tear in the plastic on one side in two places. Do you think I should replace it? Here is a picture of it:   Do you have any idea what caused the rollers to do this? |
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Post by bob123456789 on Aug 15, 2016 14:05:02 GMT -6
Here it is:   |
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Post by bob123456789 on Aug 15, 2016 11:56:24 GMT -6
This is my first time taking one of these apart. Don't ask me to do something dumb because I won't know any better. Here are pic's of the inside of the variator.   |
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Post by bob123456789 on Aug 15, 2016 8:23:54 GMT -6
I'd appreciate input from all of the experts on here on how to solve this. The video in post 37 contains my CVT noise which we are trying to solve. The video in post 63 shows everything with the belt and CVT removed. Only the main bearings. In this video I have put the variator back on the main shaft: View My VideoTo me it looks like we may have isolated the noise to the variator What is the noise coming from the variator? Should I be concerned about it? If so, how do I solve it? I've mentioned earlier that my variator has one fin broken off. Here is a picture of it. Could this be the noise?  Thanks again for everyone's help. |
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Post by bob123456789 on Aug 14, 2016 9:44:32 GMT -6
Okay. We have hit a temporary cooler spell. It sure would be nice to get this thing moved along as much as possible before it changes. The fuel filter is on. I pulled the belt and variator and ran it to try to isolate the noise to see if it was coming from the clutch or the front end of the CVT (main bearing, variator...). Here is the video: View My VideoDoes the lack of any noise in this video mean that my main bearing is good? Boy, I sure hope so. Please contrast the CVT noise in this video with the video in post 37 of this thread. What is left that could be causing this noise? The clutch? How do we find it? |
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Post by bob123456789 on Jul 31, 2016 15:45:44 GMT -6
Just wanted to update everyone who has been helping with this. I had replaced the fuel filter and one side broke off. I have ordered a new one.
Once that is fixed and it is running I plan to take a video of the main shaft with the CVT removed to try to isolate if the noise is from the shaft, variator or clutch and upload it here.
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Post by bob123456789 on Jul 28, 2016 11:00:19 GMT -6
Thanks for helping with this John.
One of the cooling fins on the variator is broken off. Could that make this noise?
I am charging the battery. I plan to removed the belt and run it that way to try to isolate the noise a bit more, clutch versus variator.
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