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Post by bob123456789 on Oct 27, 2017 9:11:14 GMT -6
Or use a hair dryer to warm it.
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Post by bob123456789 on Oct 27, 2017 7:31:57 GMT -6
Okay I went back and put power to the old original brake/tail bulbs. All of them lit up correctly. I have put both the original bulbs back in.
Cyborg I had checked the engine ground back to the negative terminal and had continuity.
Any ideas how I can get it to turn over again would be really appreciated.
Cyborg? Anyone?
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Post by bob123456789 on Oct 25, 2017 11:52:02 GMT -6
Thanks Cyborg. We are on the right track, just not quite there yet
It has two brake/tail lights. I pulled them and one had a broken filament. I replaced the one with the broken filament. When I went to start it still nothing. I really can't tell if the filament is burnt or broken. If it was burnt out by a electricity spike it would make sense to keep looking for another similar cause stopping the engine from turning over. Does anyone know if there are more things wired like the brake lights that can stop the engine from turning over?
If it wasn't burnt then it might be something near where I was working around the cylinder when it quit.
I still get no signal lights, brake or tail lights or dash lights but there is power to the clock.
Any help figuring this out would be greatly appreciated.
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Post by bob123456789 on Oct 24, 2017 8:23:39 GMT -6
I have a JCL MP250A with a Linhai 257 cc engine that is very similar to the Roketa, Linhai.....
I am in the middle of doing some work and am baffled where I am right now. I just worked around the cylinder and exhaust valve cover and now when I turn the engine over nothing happens. The key is on, I am holding the brake lever (neither right or left works). I have power to the digital clock. I get no power to any lights (brake, tail, signal or to the dashboard back lights). No clicking of the solenoid when I press the starter button or turning of the starter. No horn. My battery is brand new and fully charged. I have 13.0 volts across the battery terminals. Both the fuse on the solenoid and the fuse on the battery are good. I have checked the continuity of the ground from the negative terminal to the frame and engine and they are good.
I seem to remember it has safety wiring that won't let it turn over when the rear brake light doesn't work. I have a multimeter but no wiring diagram.
Clearly it is something I did while I worked on it. It worked before then. I have checked it over a lot and I don't see what the problem is. I have looked for wiring that I might have moved or disconnected while working on it and can't see anything .
Can anyone point me in the right direction. Any ideas how I can fix it?
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Post by bob123456789 on May 2, 2017 12:23:17 GMT -6
I just assumed that Alley found the beer fund we all chipped in to every time he steered us in the right direction and hasn't hit the bottom of it yet.
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Post by bob123456789 on Feb 6, 2017 12:49:44 GMT -6
Not yet. Stock.
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Post by bob123456789 on Dec 29, 2016 11:22:17 GMT -6
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Post by bob123456789 on Dec 25, 2016 12:33:09 GMT -6
I could once again use the help of the wise folks on here.
I need a dowel pin for a Linhai 257 cc engine. Where can I get one?
This is for in between the cylinder block and the crankcase and fits over the stud.
The measurements are: Length: 14 mm Inside Diameter: 8 mm Outside diameter: 8.75 mm
I lost one. I bought one through a vendor for a Aeolus 260T. He checked with his mechanic before sending it and confirmed that it would fit. It doesn't.
I went to a local Yamaha dealer. They are checking with the distributor. This is probably a long shot.
Where else can I get one of these?
Thanks for pointing me in the right direction.
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Post by bob123456789 on Dec 5, 2016 11:01:54 GMT -6
Good suggestion Cyborg.
I'll do that.
Thanks.
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Post by bob123456789 on Dec 4, 2016 12:11:18 GMT -6
Hi there. Could use some advice from you guys.
I have a JCL MPO250A with a Linhai 257 cc engine. It is leaking gas from around the mount for the fuel gauge on the gas tank. The fuel gage works fine other than leaking.
What is the best way to fix this?
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Post by bob123456789 on Nov 18, 2016 15:01:50 GMT -6
Bill
Thanks a lot fore the update on how well it worked. I've been wondering.
Cooling 1.5 times as quick looks like a big step in the right direction. The big question now is once you get back to the hottest time of the year whenever you were overheating (in traffic,...) does it make a difference?
The rest of us in a similar situation as yours will be wondering. Come July and August can you give us an update?
Does the charging system seem to be keeping up with the added load? If not you may want to add the headlight on/off switch so you can turn the headlight off during the day when it isn't needed and the extra juice is needed for cooling.
Is the fan you link to the one you had laying around or did you have buy it?
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Post by bob123456789 on Sept 16, 2016 9:23:24 GMT -6
Good to hear from you.
In fans, bigger and drawing more amps should mean more CFM. Not having to buy a new one is great.
We are all watching to see if you are successful in getting improved cooling with this solution.
Tough going on the oil plug. It looks like you have a working solution. The important thing is to change the oil.
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Post by bob123456789 on Sept 16, 2016 6:06:09 GMT -6
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Post by bob123456789 on Sept 13, 2016 10:52:21 GMT -6
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Post by bob123456789 on Sept 13, 2016 10:43:11 GMT -6
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