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Post by acvw74 on Sept 2, 2017 10:12:54 GMT -6
Been riding with the 110 mainjet and seeing elevated temps at highway speeds...additionally getting surging at low speeds when the choke is on.
Swapped the main for a 115 and dropped the slowjet for a 32 - Highway speeds feel much smoother and stronger acceleration to them and the idle is better when the choke is on.
The extra mainjet appears to have dropped the high running temps to a normal range.
FINALLY! Now it is so nice to ride
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Post by acvw74 on Aug 7, 2017 18:47:46 GMT -6
I am curious to see what others say...My tire is completely thread bare...(not riding, it is off the bike)..I am looking hard at lots of options.
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Post by acvw74 on Aug 3, 2017 11:42:38 GMT -6
That's what I thought too - before swapping out the 130 mainjet - the temp was running hot...running the 120 seemed to run cool ...now the 110 seems to be toward the hotter side.
Still feeling some surging at WOT but reduced...
I think I am going to get 2 or 3 plugs and run it for a while and keep an eye on the plugs....let them tell me which way to move the jet.
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Post by acvw74 on Aug 2, 2017 19:08:48 GMT -6
Had some success tonight!
Took 30 minutes and swapped the 120 mainjet for a 110...Out on the ride it ran right up to 60ish then surged/hesitated but soo much better.
Oddly - with the 120 jet, the temp remained in the normal range - with the 110 it ran to the high side of the gauge...just like at the beginning...still thinking about this one.
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Post by acvw74 on Jul 30, 2017 19:01:36 GMT -6
Not sure on this one...sounds like a fuel filter?
Is this the Vertical or Horizontal engine? |
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Post by acvw74 on Jul 30, 2017 16:50:14 GMT -6
I think I have the same bike.
I have had it for several weeks now and one odd thing I found is that the kill switch won't kill the engine...however...if the switch is in the "off" position the engine will not start.
Another thought - the plugs on the kill switch - if unplugged or put in backward the engine will not turn over without bumping the starter....learned this after loosing the tags when I took the dash apart.
Hope this helps. |
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Post by acvw74 on Jul 30, 2017 16:34:27 GMT -6
Bit of an update...some good new and bad
The bike is a bit better, however I messed up a bit..broke my own rule...I changed 3 things.
1. Cleaned the variator - Bought a new air gun and started it - the drive boss was completely dry - cleaned, greased the boss and reassembled.
2. The new intake I bought...didn't fit...so I cleaned the old one...no apparent cracks, it was silicone on...no real O-ring. So after cleaning I applied a bit of form-a-gasket and used the O-ring from new.
3. Carb - since it was out - decided to see the mainjet size - it appears to have been a 130 or 135. Took it out and installed a 120.
Now the bike accelerates smooth from the start (it was real jerky before) and will continue to accelerate to 55 then start the jerking/hesitation again.
Fairly sure it isn't a vacuum leak now - unless it is the carbon cartridge.
Is it still too big of a mainjet?...and would that cause the jerking/hesitation?
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Post by acvw74 on Jul 30, 2017 6:57:25 GMT -6
I have a new intake manifold I am going to put on...I agree with the mainjet...Do you have a suggestion for a size? it is a stock engine.
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Post by acvw74 on Jul 27, 2017 18:16:22 GMT -6
I thought that was it!
The problem persist...Thinking the petcock was the issue...I put in a brass hose connector...at 45 stops/sputters and won't accelerate. |
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Post by acvw74 on Jul 27, 2017 17:08:02 GMT -6
I haven't totally ruled that out yet...Just finished replacing ALL the vacuum lines. All were without leaks...one was really soft (going to vapor canister from the fuel tank) another going to the vacuum petcock was partially (almost completely) block from being zip tied to the frame.
Cooling off a bit...going to give it a ride before changing anything else...only one change at a time. |
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Post by acvw74 on Jul 27, 2017 14:58:16 GMT -6
Diaphragm is good I even adjusted the needled (up? - richer)...no effect
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Post by acvw74 on Jul 26, 2017 19:13:36 GMT -6
I don't think it is something in the tank...it only has issues above half throttle. Anything below half runs smooth...over half and it wants to throw me over the handlebars.
Read somewhere about the carb return spring being too stiff...cutting a few loops? |
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Post by acvw74 on Jul 26, 2017 6:35:05 GMT -6
Thanks Cyborg,
I have looked at all the vacuum lines and the intake manifold - I didn't see any issues. The bike runs smooth up to 40-45 then starts cutting out/surging/losing power.
I have a new intake manifold on order, a set of bigger carb jets (it feels like it is running out of fuel) and will replace all the vacuum lines.
Any other ideas? FYI I think the previous owner had the same issue there is a lot of evidence of replacement parts.
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Post by acvw74 on Jul 23, 2017 10:38:37 GMT -6
Thanks,
Air filter is new, new NGK iridium plug...the fuel tank is double vented...it has one going to the carbon filter and one from the previous owner(drilled a hole in the cap).
The engine does the same sputtering or cutout while on the stand...idea?
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Post by acvw74 on Jul 22, 2017 18:48:14 GMT -6
My newest acquisition a 07 JMStar I was getting ready to switch over to waterless coolant...Had issues the day I bought it...it burned the CDI up on the way home, got a new one off EBay and fired right up.
Idles great and if I go easy on the throttle it will run smooth up to 45...then it feels like someone is pulling hard on the back of the bike. Does the same thing at about 25 if I start at wide open throttle.
Things done so far...Replaced all the fuel lines and the fuel filter. Cleaned the carb (looked really good for a 10yr old bike)...I think it has been replaced because it has a Keihin carb on it....Traced all vacuum lines - cut the ends off so the fit tight. I also took the screen out just in front of the carb.
What is the next step? Do I have a bad or restricted CDI? It sounds quiet...but, would valve cause this issue? |
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