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I like to talk to people like adults.
there are wiring diagrams all over the internet and every forum has a well written tutorial that targets your specific problem. I strongly suggest spending an hour or two studying this info.
it sound to me that your issue is NO CRANK.
if it starts by kicking it over, your problem is not a starting problem.
this is in regards to a NO CRANK problem. if I am mistaken, disregard my post below or clarify.
you don't tell us how much voltage your battery has. that is the first place to start. you need a tester to test battery voltage at rest (not running), and running/charging voltage.
here's two quick and dirty tests:
1. after you turn the key on, put a metal object between the two top posts of the starter relay. if you're lucky, the engine will turn over. that's a good sign for the battery and suggests the starter relay may be bad so continue to #2.
2. one of the two wires that go to the starter relay comes from the battery positive (through switches). the other is ground. jump a wire from battery positive to the wire waiting for the positive electricity (at your own risk).

a new battery hoses? that's a new one on me. I know there's a vent hose in some bike battery compartments. I'm confused.

anyway, it still sounds like your battery needs charging or replacing. I know that's a pain. if you can find somebody to give you a jump start, you'll immediately know.

sounds like your ignition switch is failing. my scoot has to have a brake handle squeezed, the key on and the kill switch cannot be on kill. if I wanted to chop the green wire on my scoot, I wouldn't have to worry about the kill switch or the brake handles anymore.

well, if you got the scoot cheap, that's your reason for it. the previous owner's loss is your gain. I would much rather be able to diagnose and fix vehicles than have the money to pay somebody else and NOT be able to fix them. can you imagine that. he put the wrong cdi, and all you needed was a cdi that was probably less than ten bucks. maybe even less than five. the cdi's for my 150cc scoot are less than four dollars. the parts are so ridiculously cheap it's sinful. my scoot gets about 80mpg and has been surprisingly reliable and has almost 3000 miles on it now. I actually highly recommend these vehicles, but only to conscientious mechanics. do that engine oil change at 500 miles. that timing stuff is unforgiving.

I'm assuming the scoot is an arrow. I have a downloaded shop manual for one. I don't even need a manual for a tao tao with that arrow manual. I collect manuals.

I was telling you about that carb enricher. my investigation found that it does what it does every time and has no way of knowing that it needs to. you may want to do your own investigation, and I'd like to see what results YOU get, but I have also provided my findings on other forums and nobody disagreed with me so far.
I've got a collection of japanese mopeds that I drove for years and during summers I never choked any of them and they would start right up the first kick.

fyi I forgot to mention that I can't see the spark on my gy6 unless it's dark outside.

to be more help we would have to see a good pic (or better yet several pictures) of the stators. in specific which wire goes where.
just looking at the plug doesn't help. it appears that stator is intended for a different brand of bike. you should still be able to use it by just comparing the location of where each wire is soldered to the stator. there is also a magnet that has a wire which sends a signal when the square on the flywheel passes it. that's an easy one to match up. I would also say that the solid greens are probably grounds on each stator. you MAY be able to swap stators. that may be less work than any other way of dealing with this.