Clinician
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Post by classacted on Sept 7, 2024 9:29:11 GMT -6
I like to talk to people like adults. there are wiring diagrams all over the internet and every forum has a well written tutorial that targets your specific problem. I strongly suggest spending an hour or two studying this info. it sound to me that your issue is NO CRANK. if it starts by kicking it over, your problem is not a starting problem. this is in regards to a NO CRANK problem. if I am mistaken, disregard my post below or clarify. you don't tell us how much voltage your battery has. that is the first place to start. you need a tester to test battery voltage at rest (not running), and running/charging voltage. here's two quick and dirty tests: 1. after you turn the key on, put a metal object between the two top posts of the starter relay. if you're lucky, the engine will turn over. that's a good sign for the battery and suggests the starter relay may be bad so continue to #2. 2. one of the two wires that go to the starter relay comes from the battery positive (through switches). the other is ground. jump a wire from battery positive to the wire waiting for the positive electricity (at your own risk).
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Clinician
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Post by classacted on Sept 7, 2024 9:01:30 GMT -6
I'm glad to see you take paypal. sorry to see that I can't check the price of a belt without registering. you should make it so that the price of the item is always available. prices seem reasonable from what you posted here.
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Clinician
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Post by classacted on Aug 13, 2024 14:08:42 GMT -6
a new battery hoses? that's a new one on me. I know there's a vent hose in some bike battery compartments. I'm confused.
anyway, it still sounds like your battery needs charging or replacing. I know that's a pain. if you can find somebody to give you a jump start, you'll immediately know.
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Clinician
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Post by classacted on Aug 13, 2024 14:02:06 GMT -6
one bike could be AC cdi system and the other could be DC cdi system. make sure you have more ground than you need. you can never have too much, but you can have not enough. any excess just won't be used. spare parts are ridiculously cheap. buy extra cdi's, rectifiers, and coils. I buy a bunch of them and immediately try each one and label them like a scientist would. those connections at the coil have to be crazy tight too.
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Clinician
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Won't start
by: classacted - Sept 19, 2023 17:47:18 GMT -6
Post by classacted on Sept 19, 2023 17:47:18 GMT -6
sounds like your ignition switch is failing. my scoot has to have a brake handle squeezed, the key on and the kill switch cannot be on kill. if I wanted to chop the green wire on my scoot, I wouldn't have to worry about the kill switch or the brake handles anymore.
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Clinician
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Post by classacted on Sept 19, 2023 17:41:44 GMT -6
try removing the muffler, then the air cleaner one at a time. test after each.
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Clinician
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Post by classacted on Sept 5, 2023 16:05:29 GMT -6
well, if you got the scoot cheap, that's your reason for it. the previous owner's loss is your gain. I would much rather be able to diagnose and fix vehicles than have the money to pay somebody else and NOT be able to fix them. can you imagine that. he put the wrong cdi, and all you needed was a cdi that was probably less than ten bucks. maybe even less than five. the cdi's for my 150cc scoot are less than four dollars. the parts are so ridiculously cheap it's sinful. my scoot gets about 80mpg and has been surprisingly reliable and has almost 3000 miles on it now. I actually highly recommend these vehicles, but only to conscientious mechanics. do that engine oil change at 500 miles. that timing stuff is unforgiving.
I'm assuming the scoot is an arrow. I have a downloaded shop manual for one. I don't even need a manual for a tao tao with that arrow manual. I collect manuals.
I was telling you about that carb enricher. my investigation found that it does what it does every time and has no way of knowing that it needs to. you may want to do your own investigation, and I'd like to see what results YOU get, but I have also provided my findings on other forums and nobody disagreed with me so far. I've got a collection of japanese mopeds that I drove for years and during summers I never choked any of them and they would start right up the first kick.
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Clinician
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Post by classacted on Sept 5, 2023 9:27:40 GMT -6
ac and dc cdi are definitely not interchangeable.
your carb issue is probably the enricher you're talking about, and I've had mine unplugged for the entire summer. my 150cc starts right up without it. when it gets cold, I will have to use it. it makes a rich mix for immediate startup, then leans the mix out. I think it does it every time you start which results in wasted fuel and extra carbon buildup. I hate carbon buildup.
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Clinician
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Post by classacted on Aug 28, 2023 20:29:25 GMT -6
fyi I forgot to mention that I can't see the spark on my gy6 unless it's dark outside.
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Clinician
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Post by classacted on Aug 28, 2023 20:25:32 GMT -6
I have over 60v on the red wire going to the cdi, but I don't think the fact that you have only 50v is the issue.
I've done ohm tests on every one of those ignition parts and been baffled numerous times by parts out of spec that worked and parts in spec that didn't. the shop manuals for these gy6's could be wrong too. those tests can't hurt, but the bottom line is, if you have good spark, the engine can run. I hope you didn't throw away the old parts. it's just as efficient to swap parts than to diagnose IMO. it's never a good idea to swap a bunch of things. swap one thing and test. now you know that part is good (or bad). those coils are notorious for coming off the spark plug. the cap to the wire, the plug wire to the coil, and the two wires that go on the coil are all common coil problems. I DO think there is a certain amount of resistance in the coil. if it's totally open or shorted it won't work.
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Clinician
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Post by classacted on Aug 22, 2023 15:36:21 GMT -6
to be more help we would have to see a good pic (or better yet several pictures) of the stators. in specific which wire goes where. just looking at the plug doesn't help. it appears that stator is intended for a different brand of bike. you should still be able to use it by just comparing the location of where each wire is soldered to the stator. there is also a magnet that has a wire which sends a signal when the square on the flywheel passes it. that's an easy one to match up. I would also say that the solid greens are probably grounds on each stator. you MAY be able to swap stators. that may be less work than any other way of dealing with this.
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Clinician
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Post by classacted on Aug 11, 2023 20:32:26 GMT -6
is this the engine? 1P73MN if it is, you want to find literature of that engine paired with a carb. compare that to literature of the fuel injection on a wire by wire basis. very good shop manuals and wiring diagrams will be your best friend here. find out if the computer is involved in anything other than squirting fuel into the intake. if the computer is involved with shifting into reverse, then serious attention has to be given to find a substitute or workaround to address this issue. I doubt it does, but I don't know the vehicle. that is just one very important example. the more the computer is involved in, the more difficult this will probably be.
if this person who told you about this MODULE won't tell you more then you need to keep digging.
I take back what I said about not taking that vehicle to work. very nice vehicle. I'm actually jealous.
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Clinician
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Post by classacted on Aug 10, 2023 17:07:19 GMT -6
wow. I like icebear vehicles, but to have fuel injection and computer for something that is supposed to be fun (you don't need to drive it to work for a paycheck), makes no sense at all to me. if that was mine, I would definitely have what you suggest in mind. fuel injection may deliver a little more performance, but the bad outweighs the good from MY point of view. vehicles NOW are designed to NAG at the owner. if you decide to keep the fuel injection, every time it gives you a problem you will ask yourself, 'why didn't I ditch that crap?'
I rigged a toggle switch to my brother-in-laws motorcycle straight to the battery because IT overheats and sometimes the fan doesn't turn on. it's been two years now and he continues to use it this way. this type of solution may or may not get you by.
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Clinician
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Post by classacted on Aug 10, 2023 11:19:24 GMT -6
I'm sure you checked those obvious things you mentioned. remember, coolant is supposed to be changed periodically and blockage can take place if it isn't. timing, carbon buildup and rpm's are other possible causes to be considered.
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Clinician
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Post by classacted on Aug 8, 2023 16:58:41 GMT -6
my bike is a tao tao 150cc. I have two engines. the first had the egr pipe on the valve cover, the second does not. the second engine has been running almost perfect for about 1400 miles with no egr. I think you can cap off and totally disregard the egr system and it will run as well, if not better. my first two guesses for you to investigate are timing and compression. you likely had fuel and spark and still do, but if you check compression (with a gauge) and timing and they are fine, do a quick fuel check and spark check. keep it basic.
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