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Post by foretwoone on Jun 29, 2011 12:21:01 GMT -6
Well for the end result it was something to do with the original variator. I put the prodigy variator in with the same 12g sliders and acceleration is great and top end is unaffected. I had put a uni filter on with a 120 main jet, stock was 108, ended up running way rich in the middle power band so i put a 115 in and everything runs really nice now. The 15/37 gears are at a shop be pressed on right now and the a9 cam will go in maybe next week once i hit 800 miles(same time as I do the valves adjustment).
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Post by foretwoone on Jun 27, 2011 17:55:34 GMT -6
Definately going to go that route, i can fiberglass a new dash panel to custom fit it, any guesses on a fuel gauge or should i just hack my old one into the new dash?
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Post by foretwoone on Jun 27, 2011 13:59:47 GMT -6
The china meter is ticking me off, seriously i feel like im going 50 when im going 40 on the china meter. Gunna borrow a friends gps to check it. I know on bikes it always feels faster, but even on my klr, 40 felt like 40, not 50!
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Post by foretwoone on Jun 26, 2011 20:47:05 GMT -6
Rode to work this morning, however i put the stock airbox in first. Acceleration was great, maintains about 7100rpms through 50mph. Toped it out at 63mph on a long stretch. Im hoping with the 15/37 gears to be able to get up to 70 without losing too much bottom end power, we'll see.
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Post by foretwoone on Jun 25, 2011 23:07:20 GMT -6
I understand the ramp technically doesnt move, its the drive face of the variator that moves away from the ramp. Either way there is friction there making it difficult to separate the variator from the ramp plate.
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Post by foretwoone on Jun 25, 2011 21:57:05 GMT -6
Its late here(12am) but i just finished putting in the prodigy variator. I do have one complaint about it, the ramp is very tight. My stock ramp slides on and off like nothings there but this one binds and i have to pull it off the variator. I'll test it in the AM but my instinct tells me its going in the trash. If the weights cant push it out because its binding then it will never open up.
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Post by foretwoone on Jun 25, 2011 13:29:21 GMT -6
Any chance this could be a sign of needing a higher jet from the Uni filter? The amount of increase in rpms is not even close to proportional to what it should be. Now if, as you mentioned the variator were loose due to a wedged belt it would not push out and the belt might not ride up. Now that I have the new variator I might try the weights on that.
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Post by foretwoone on Jun 25, 2011 9:51:35 GMT -6
So i got around to putting in my 12g sliders and Gates Kevlar 842 belt last night. I know my original weights were 14g, confirmed by a jewelers scale. The acceleration was great, but at 35mph i was pushing 8000rpms. I then double checked the orientation of the sliders and they are correct. The only other changes made at the same time was the addition of a UNI filter. Now i just got my Prodigy Variator, A9 cam, and 15/37 gears which i was going to do tonight, however i dont want to do anything until i fix the problem at hand.
Is it possible i overtorqued the drive plate on and squeezed the belt so it cant ride up the variator?
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Post by foretwoone on Jun 22, 2011 15:08:06 GMT -6
OMG! That loose connector is why you look like an idiot!
Ouch, easy Rich, i'm still a newb. The bike is a MC-74 You guys are saying don't adjust the a/f mix until after break in, even if its running alittle lean? Guess that means don't put on the UNI filter, variator, sliders, A9 cam, rear end gears and big bore kit or +8.2mm stroker crank until break in either? ;D Ye, i get alittle carried away with credit cards. |
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Post by foretwoone on Jun 21, 2011 18:36:00 GMT -6
Despite having my scoot 5 full days now, i have only just now taken my first on road ride. It's been rainy here and i had to have time to get to DMV. It's interesting, the difference in feel you get on a normal road versus scooting around the culdisacs in my backstreet neighborhood. Highest speed i took it to was 70KPH(43 ish MPH) at 6900-7000rpm Good acceleration - check good idle - check good torque - check look like an idiot - check get laughed at - check I can outgrow the last two. Heres a few trouble spot i need help with. I wanted to adjust my a/f mix before riding. Getting to the screw was a pain, but when i did get to it i find its not slotted for a screwdriver. What now? Additionally while i had the engine bay opened up i noticed a loose connector, i cant see anything it would plug into though. Check out the picture and let me know if its important. Attachments:
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Post by foretwoone on Jun 21, 2011 15:01:37 GMT -6
Dumb question and i dont mean to thread jack, but is it supposed to idle lower or higher after warming up?
As for your enricher i would take off the riht side body panels and trace the harness. Sounds like a fuse or short.
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Post by foretwoone on Jun 21, 2011 5:44:38 GMT -6
Jake, what dash did you go with and from whom? My stock one is KPH and i have bad eyes, need a new one.
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Post by foretwoone on Jun 20, 2011 18:42:49 GMT -6
O well that sucks, but is the 4' enough or do i need to go get more before i start?
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Post by foretwoone on Jun 20, 2011 16:55:45 GMT -6
Just wondering if there is a writeup on this anywhere. Im sure its simple but I've never had to do it on any other vehicle. Im not even sure i got enough tube. I got 4' of 3/16 and 1/4 lines from advance auto today along with a 1/4" universal inline filter.
Is there a way of draining to old lines so i dont get gas everywhere?
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Post by foretwoone on Jun 14, 2011 17:26:25 GMT -6
Put a manual petcock in. The vacuum ones are cheap and seem to fail alot. Had one on my klr650 and it was found to be the cause of a similar problem. 10 minutes of work and 20 dollars for a new petcock....never had the problem again.
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