Clinician
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Post by capncrunch on Apr 23, 2012 20:38:31 GMT -6
First off, do not buy from Scootertronics. That is, unless you actually want the worst buying experience that you will ever have.
Secondly, you typically (but not always)get what you pay for. The MRP exhaust is good and will last, probably outlast your scooter. But, you can definitely get some really awesome ones out there for a fraction of the cost. One of the best options out there that is cost effective if you are up for some modding is Supertrapp. Completely customizable. You can adjust the sound and back pressure till you get the results that you want and they look pretty awesome too.
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Clinician
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Post by capncrunch on Apr 22, 2012 12:07:10 GMT -6
Two things....I discovered that the cylinder head stud did not strip out of the casing but, rather, the nut stripped off the stud....crazy. Ive never seen that happen before. But, Im still not running. Im thinking that its something really simple at this point like compression because I know I have fuel and spark and that I am at TDC. So, Im guessing that I need a new gasket, rocker arm assembly(which really sucks), and cylinder head nut.
The head had a dry seal originally. So, Im guessing thats ok to stay the same...Do any of you ever put any type of gasket sealer between the cylinder and head?
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Clinician
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Post by capncrunch on Apr 12, 2012 16:02:44 GMT -6
Sooooo, I confirmed that I was indeed at TDC the whole time. So that was not the problem. I didn't get to find out one way or another as to what the problem was though.
When I originally put everything back together a corner of the rocker arm assembly broke/crushed. I didn't know at the time it was this extensive. I did get a new one just because. When I put everything back together then new rocker arm assembly did the same thing as well as one of the cylinder studs appear as though they may have stripped out the engine casing. Not too sure what to do now....
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Clinician
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Post by capncrunch on Apr 7, 2012 17:04:52 GMT -6
Yeah, I actually have been riding with a free flow intake that i manufactured using a mandrel bent aluminum tube with a k&n filter at the end. Thanks for the shout out.
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Clinician
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Post by capncrunch on Apr 6, 2012 6:38:20 GMT -6
Nope, don't mind pulling the head again. Not much to it really. I will most definitely do this your way. I feel very strongly that this will cure my ills. This explains why when long before when I first adjusted the valves with the original head the t and f marks weren't very good markers in relation to the cam shaft.
Thanks for the advice, Sprocket. I will definitely do exactly as you outlined...Im sure that you agree that the upjetting is also a necessity(not the root cause)?
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Clinician
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Post by capncrunch on Apr 5, 2012 14:21:05 GMT -6
i believe the cam chain is on correctly...after reading your response i have my doubts...i did use the t mark and not the f...if im understanding you correctly, i should reassemble using the f mark?i used tdc to the best of my understanding....but im def not even close to perfect.
so based upon your response to this i will reassemble this way that i am understanding...i am also planning on ordering new jets regardless...
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Clinician
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Post by capncrunch on Apr 5, 2012 5:44:18 GMT -6
Hey there peeps! I haven't been posting on the board for quite sometime, but a need has arisen.
Somewhat recently as a result of changing exhaust on my 150cc gy6 the exhaust bolt stripped the threading on the head...I took this as an opportunity to bump up to a performance cylinder head and a14 camshaft.
Everything went extremely well until it came time to crank it up...it basically laughed at me initially and then i realized i hadn't tightened the nuts on the rocker arm assembly to specified torque...all good. Valves adjusted to .004 and .005. She started up with a hedonistic raucous sound! Beautiful!
But, she wouldn't stay running...Now its been extremely difficult to keep her running without giving her some juice...I adjusted the a/f ratio and saw some improvements...but getting her to crank on the first go round and keeping her running has been a chore...
My thoughts are that it may be that I simply need to upjet the main and slow jet on the carb...any thoughts or ideas?
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Clinician
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Post by capncrunch on Sept 24, 2011 7:35:33 GMT -6
what type of stator setup do you have? if you are running a six pole as is the standard, you really need to consider an upgrade. buggy depot has a couple of solid options. like bashan said, having a separate toggle switch for your lights to switch them on after you start the scoot is the way to go. everyone that i know that had the HID setup goes this way otherwise the battery is dead in no time. at any rate, for your safety and everyone on the road, make sure that you don't use any of the plug and play kits. make sure you use one that has a projector lamp.
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Clinician
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Post by capncrunch on Aug 30, 2011 19:22:25 GMT -6
gotcha!
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Clinician
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Post by capncrunch on Aug 29, 2011 8:17:36 GMT -6
I just ordered the setup from buggy depot, should be here any day now...Im just a little confused by one thing on the diagram...what is an enricher? I don't know that I have this on my 150cc gym china made bike. Is this something that you need to make this work properly? If so, where do you get one?
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Clinician
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Post by capncrunch on Aug 23, 2011 16:54:43 GMT -6
Where did you buy the lights from?
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