Clinician
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Post by famousbyter on May 20, 2012 13:30:54 GMT -6
I believe my gauge is designed for cars but I asked their tech support before purchasing and they said I would have no problems. Once again, I should check with you guys first before taking the word of people wanting to sell their products. I always do things the hard way. The gauge works fine as long as I'm not moving, which is better than having no gauge i guess. In the mean time I will try and find a sending unit that works with digital gauges. Thanks to everyone for all the comments and suggestions.
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Post by famousbyter on May 16, 2012 18:22:14 GMT -6
exactly, it seems to be registering right with just the key on. When I actually start the bike, the electronic display starts to move somewhat randomly. When I start to move it goes bananas. I have a voltmeter, but I really dont know how to set it up properly to check ohms. To be perfectly honest I dont know how to use it. The electronic fuel gauge I got has (2) extra wires in addition to the black power wire and the other two wires.. The instructions says in order to calibrate the gauge properly you have to clip one wire for 0-90 ohms, cut both wires for 10-180 ohms. Get back to me when you get a chance, thanks Rich
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Clinician
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Post by famousbyter on May 15, 2012 18:03:37 GMT -6
Hey rich, I wired it up like you suggested and it seems to be working fine when the bike is not moving. When I start it up and it is idleling or when I take it out for a ride, the gauge starts to read from where it was when it wasn't moving all the way down to zero and it just fluctuates randomly between those numbers. Any ideas on how to trouble shoot. Thanks......
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Clinician
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Post by famousbyter on May 14, 2012 20:12:44 GMT -6
Heys guys, I have an electronic fuel gauge that I want to install. It has 3 wires (power, ground, wire to fuel sensor)
The fuel sensor itself has 3 wires that are in a plastic harness
Do I need to strip one of those wires and connect to my new fuel gauge wire?
I have already connected the power and ground and it lights up fine, it just reads empty.....
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Clinician
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Post by famousbyter on Apr 21, 2012 13:44:06 GMT -6
It works now. the wiring was correct, however the right front brake harness was bad and needed to be replaced. It was shorting out and popped a few fuses. My brakelights/signals all work fine now. WOW, its so much brighter than stock lights. I just want to say thanks for all the ideas......I'm fairly new to the scooter game and I guess I panic a lil bit when things don't go right. Anyways thanks again for the help and stand-by for my next panic attack.....
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Clinician
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Post by famousbyter on Apr 20, 2012 13:16:31 GMT -6
I just replaced the stock brake light with this R6 L.E.D brake light. when the bike is off the brake light works, left and right turn signal works. when I start the bike up nothing works. I turn it off and it works again.
is there a fuse that works only when the bike starts up that I may have blown?
Any ideas.
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Clinician
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fuel gauge
by: famousbyter - Apr 19, 2012 9:39:56 GMT -6
Post by famousbyter on Apr 19, 2012 9:39:56 GMT -6
Thanks Bashan for the diagram, I'll monkey around with it some more.....
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Clinician
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fuel gauge
by: famousbyter - Apr 18, 2012 14:53:55 GMT -6
Post by famousbyter on Apr 18, 2012 14:53:55 GMT -6
took off the battery box and discovered that the fuel gauge was not connected at all. I started to look for where it may have come loose but I can't find the proper connection. There are (3) wires on the fuel gauge 1 black, 1 yellow and 1 wire that is white and blue.
How are these gauges usually hooked up?
On the bike I see only a few posibilities. there is a 6 pin connector and a white/orange wire
also a green/yellow wire on a y-type connector going to the bottom of the left brake (one side with nothing attacthed to it) another solid black wire on a y-type connector going to the bottom of the left brake (one side with nothing attacthed to it)
It was like that when I bought the bike, but I want to try and fix it. I tried connecting to various posibilities with no success. Any ideas would be surely appreciated.
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Clinician
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Post by famousbyter on Apr 11, 2012 11:18:35 GMT -6
so I checked the diaphragm out inside of the ACV. No cracks, all in one piece.....vac lines are good as well. I did notice that the diaphragm did not seat properly when tension was put on the spring. I tried to kinda sorta re-shape it but I just ordered a new carb .....I hope this resolves my backfire issues.....anyways thanks for all the scooter wisdom.....
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Post by famousbyter on Apr 9, 2012 13:32:04 GMT -6
hey sprocket, i got that same exact gasket now, my first two were different. I did not realize that the silicone I was using is useless. Well I will check out that cut of valve. Am I just checking for a tight connection, no cracks ......or is there something else I need to do with that valve?
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Post by famousbyter on Apr 9, 2012 13:01:22 GMT -6
most of the time when I let go of the trottle, I get some very unwanted backfires. I have tried several gaskets and have been very careful to seal it with high temp silicone. I have done this three times and always get the same results. My question is this..... Can there be other reasons why i'm getting these leaks? Please advise........
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Post by famousbyter on Mar 29, 2012 9:28:45 GMT -6
Thats why I love this place.....ask and ye shall receive.....thats the kind of info i'm looking for and I sure do appreciate it......thanks for all those little pearls of wisdom Bashan, this is the second time your steering me the right way. Saber, thanks for sharimg and breaking it down as well..... I guess thats what I want to hear is other peoples experiences with this issue. How did you build your bottom end w/ out losing to much on the top? keep it coming guys....
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Post by famousbyter on Mar 29, 2012 2:52:42 GMT -6
Hey guys, I got a ruckus clone 150cc w/ basic mods. exhaust, air filter, and up the jet a lil bit. I'm interested in increasing my acceleration and am aware that it may decrease top end speed if I go to low w/ the roller weights and clutch/torque springs. I am about 185 pounds. anyways, my question is this Can someone recommend a roller weight that would "get me in the ball park" of increasing my acceleration? Also which clutch and torque spring should I be looking at to accomplish my goal as well?
can you share how you got yours personally set up.
final question, is the drop off in top end really severe? Thanks for all the wisdom
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Post by famousbyter on Mar 21, 2012 15:42:42 GMT -6
I didn't realize I was over doin it......I purchase it off of ebay and told the seller what I intended to do with my bike and they recommended it.....I should have came here first......I will try and down size to #110.......until then, I'll just replace with the stock main jet(#107)
Also what is the correct way to handle the extra line that were on the stock air box?
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Post by famousbyter on Mar 21, 2012 15:25:05 GMT -6
thanks for your quick response.....my plug is new, just changed it out last week so it still looks new......my air filter is fairly small. You dont think its an a/f adjustment issue?
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