Scooter Doc
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Post by rob63 on Jul 1, 2013 11:02:07 GMT -6
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Post by rob63 on Jun 20, 2013 10:59:00 GMT -6
Check the vacuum pipe which goes from the fuel tap to the inlet manifold. If the tap is faulty the fuel will flow down the vacuum pipe straight into the engine.
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Post by rob63 on Jun 8, 2013 4:07:02 GMT -6
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Post by rob63 on Jun 7, 2013 11:36:06 GMT -6
Yes that is the weak point of the starter clutch the springs in there BUT The question IS WHERE ARE THEY? Alleyoop Indeed, there were some small bits of debris in the oil tray when I drained it, but I`ll be having a poke around in the engine with an extendable magnet next week in case anything larger pops up.
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Post by rob63 on Jun 7, 2013 9:45:09 GMT -6
Reckon I`ve found the problem causing the rattle and lateral movement of the outer gear. Took the three allen bolts out of the starter clutch and dismantled it, this is what I found inside
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Post by rob63 on Jun 6, 2013 13:36:57 GMT -6
That outer gear should not be moving laterally on the crank. I'm wondering if the case was holding it in position when in use? There must be something defective with the nut or threads. Haven`t done much with this one today as I`ve been delivering other scoots. I have checked the nut and threads and they are fine. The washer only butts up against the roller bearing and in turn holds that and the starter clutch firmly on the crank. The washer can`t butt up tightly against the outer gear as that would make the outer gear move constantly with the crank, therefore making the idler and the starter motor move constantly as they are all in mesh. Is it possible that under normal operation the friction of the starter clutch holds the outer gear in place ? I did notice that to place the outer gear into the starter clutch I had to rotate it in one direction which obviously provides the 'grip' to turn the crank when the starter motor is activated and alternately allows freewheel in the opposite direction once the starting phase is completed. I`m just wondering if something is broken inside the clutch which has weakened the spring or friction tension to hold the outer gear in position. This might explain the rattling noise which I`m getting ?
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Post by rob63 on Jun 5, 2013 10:13:38 GMT -6
Cheers Alley, had a look at the link you provided and took it all apart again today. It`s only the outer gear that`s moving in and out, the starter clutch and needle roller are held firmly in place by the washer and the castle nut. Oddly I can`t see anything which would stop the lateral movement of the gear, if the washer was a larger diameter then it would foul on the outer gear when it was freewheeling. I might strip a breaker bike we`ve got here to see if the same happens to the outer gear on that.
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Post by rob63 on Jun 4, 2013 10:35:16 GMT -6
One of our Sym fleet bikes developed a knock/rattle from the engine. I`ve stripped the top end but found nothing obvious. Same goes for the transmission side of things. So I popped the left crankcase side off to examine the starter clutch and oil pump. Again nothing was immediately obvious but on putting it all back together I noticed something odd about the starter clutch. With the washer and nut in place and tightened, I can move the gear towards me, so that it slides over the washer. I can`t say I`ve noticed this on any of our other GY6`s. I don`t think it`s normal as the gear would be flopping in and out onto the nut. Anyone come across this before ? Sorry about the hazy pics "]
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Post by rob63 on May 29, 2013 15:16:36 GMT -6
Did a bit more probing and found a few articles on the net. Apparently I can wire the lamp in as per a normal lamp, no extras needed.
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Post by rob63 on May 29, 2013 11:28:15 GMT -6
I`m building a custom project in work and have seen a nifty looking LED tailight on fleabay. Unfortunately I have no experience with LED lights so I`m wondering if they can be wired in just like a normal light or do I need something else like a relay ? The bikes a 50cc ped with a 12v system and will be wired to run without a battery. Any info from those in the know would be much appreciated.
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Post by rob63 on May 4, 2013 13:33:43 GMT -6
They are different engines both in layout and capacity. The 157 is a 150cc but not a GY6 type, the 139 is a 50cc GY6 type. That`s about as much as I can tell you.
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Post by rob63 on Apr 25, 2013 12:30:52 GMT -6
The popping could be due to a leaky gasket, instead of putting your finger over the exhaust hold something like a bunched up rag over it to block it completely. I generally stick the sole of my work boots against the hole as it`s quicker. The engine should die eventually as it can`t breathe. There are a few types of gasket, the copper ring, and a ring made of metal and fibre which has a flat face. Both do the same job. It could be that the exhaust isn`t correctly mated to the cylinder, loosen the mounting bolts a couple of turns and the exhaust nuts at the cylinder. Give the exhaust a wiggle then re tighten the nuts at the cylinder first, then re tighten the mounting bolts last. If you need another gasket there`s loads on ebay under '139qmb exhaust gasket'.
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Post by rob63 on Apr 25, 2013 11:11:30 GMT -6
If the whole head has come off just leaving the threaded part in the casing then you shouldn`t have too much of a problem getting them out. The tension is when the seal face mates with the casing, with the face gone the threaded part should unscrew reasonably easy. We`ve had a few go in work, I get a normal pair of pliers, put the ends inside the threaded part then pull the legs apart and turn....if that makes sense
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Post by rob63 on Apr 23, 2013 9:54:23 GMT -6
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Post by rob63 on Mar 27, 2013 11:58:12 GMT -6
You need to adjust the valves to the correct gap before you do anything else. The gap is a very important part in order to make the engine run correctly.
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