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If it starts on cleaner then it`s a fuel problem, did you take the jets out of the carb and make sure they are clear ?

Took out the pilot today, soldered it up then re drilled to about 37/38, runs spot on now.

This was a leaky inlet valve, ground the valve in and the thing goes like the clappers, lots of low down torque.
Only problem I`m having is intermittent stalling. The thing can be sat idling nicely then die off, it also happens when I come in from a spin around the block and pull up to the workshop.
I tinkered around with the idle screw and it seemed to work for a while but then went back to dying off again. I checked hoses for air leaks to no avail. Adjusted the mixture screw following the normal procedure but oddly the fastest idle using the screw is when the screw is wound right in. The more I wind it out, the worse the idling gets.
Any thoughts gents ?

Sounds like the battery is knackered, even if it was sat on the scoot for five minutes it should be capable of giving three or more starts at least after having been fully charged.

Was it running ok before you laid it up ? My initial thoughts are that the battery may have a dead cell from sitting around doing nothing for 3 months. How long did you charge it for ? With a trickle charger like an optimizer it would probably need a good 6 hours.
To check the charging you need a multimeter, connect the leads to each of the battery terminals and see what voltage you are getting whilst the scoot is running. At idle you should get about 12.5 volts, when revving it should increase gradually to about 14.5 volts.
I wouldn`t worry about the spark plug colour for now if you`ve only had it idling with the odd rev up. It would definately need a run around the block to clear the cobwebs out.

As far as I know, none of the small cc Syms have a kill switch. The CDI will be AC so have a look here scooterdoc.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=electrical&action=display&thread=4997
The wire colours may be different but should be in the same position. You should be able to check if the cdi wire to the ignition coil is sending out a signal. If no luck then pop the seat pan out and try and trace the wires from the stator, there should be a multiplug with 3 yellow wires and 2 separate wires. These two separate wires are the ones concerning the feed to the cdi from the stator. If there`s no feed from at least one when the engine is spinning then it`s time to take off the fan cover on the right side and the flywheel, and examine the stator physically for broken or melted wires.
It might be worth checking the ignition coil first as that`s easy to get to, make sure the plug cap is firmly attached to the lead and that the lead isn`t split near the coil, also check that the two spade terminals are firmly attached to the coil.

We`ve got a Daelim Delfino 125 gy6 on the fleet at work which has been nothing but trouble. It came in recently having destroyed the top end.
We had a redundant 180 big bore kit sat on the shelves, so rather than spend any more money on the bike than was necessary, I fitted the big bore barrel, head and piston assemblies.
Cranked it over first time today and it was a bit reluctant to start, eventually went after giving it handfuls of throttle. It seems to run fine at maybe quarter to half throttle and over, but won`t idle. If I take the speed down to idle level it sounds like it`s 'chugging' before it cuts out, for want of a better description.
I`m torn between the fact that I may be a tooth out on the valve timing even though it looks good on the markings, or that the carb needs the settings altering because of the big bore. Tried the mix screw to no avail, can`t raise the needle as the clip is fixed.
Question is has anyone fitted a 180 kit without altering the carb/jetting, and had it running reasonably ok, before I try resetting the valve timing ?