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Post by jjoshua20213 on Aug 12, 2015 12:09:48 GMT -6
The current engine is a 1p39qmb short case with 3.50x10 tire and the 1p39qmb long case has a 130/70-12 tire.
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Post by jjoshua20213 on Aug 12, 2015 12:07:07 GMT -6
Check for a weak spark. You may have a bad cdi/spark plug. Have you changed the changed the carb?
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Post by jjoshua20213 on Aug 4, 2015 7:24:57 GMT -6
Not sure if the 150cc's method of checking is the same as the 50cc's, but if so then that information is incorrect. With 750ml in the tank, the crosshatch on the dip stick should read full. screwed in it should read over full. They are all the sameo sameo 750ml for the 150s as well no diff. Like I said even if you fill it all the way to rim that is about 1oz of oil IF you have it on level ground. Only way to overfill a scoot with oil is to have the front end down at an angle so the oil is being filled from the front of the motor so in this case YES you will overfill it other than that not a problem with to much oil. You could on the other hand not have enough oil in it IF you have the scoot angled backward in which case the oil fill spout will show full when the majority of the motor case is empty. Just common sense really, don't have to be a genius, do it with a glass of water tilt it and it will overflow before the glass is filled to the top. Alleyoop I'm confused... Assuming the bike is level while on the stand, when adding 750ml after draining the oil the dipstick will read at the top of the crosshatch when not screwed in. Screwed in it will read over it. Why would the bike be tilted forward or back? While on the stand if you fill the reservoir to the very top. It WILL overfill and effect performance and or blow out of the vent tube. Common sense should tell you to fill the tank while level. |
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Post by jjoshua20213 on Aug 2, 2015 17:52:59 GMT -6
Anything from china is more quantity vs. quality.
With that being said, all the 2nd hand tao tao bike have given me no problems.
But I wouldn't put it past em to spit out a few bad ones.
Everything done in 2012 has worked flawless (speaking from bikes i've worked on)
There is a strong possibility there is new management/workers if they are popping out bad bikes.
I wouldn't throw dirt on the name until you see other brands around. All I see around her is Tao Tao and honda, maybe a piece sport.
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Post by jjoshua20213 on Aug 2, 2015 17:37:50 GMT -6
It was underneath the pair system on the underside bolt heads , now im kind of wondering if I might have added to much oil ,as when I replaced the head and had it all apart there was some oil under the scooter , and when I put it all together added about 6 oz & I dont think I lost hardly much at all , I saw on YouTube to check oil level all you do is place dipstick in hole? Or should I wipe it and thread it all the way in to check it? Thanks:) You may need to change the gasket for the valve cover or tighten the screws to it if loose. Too much oil will effect performance and blow out of the tube connected to the valve cover. |
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Post by jjoshua20213 on Aug 2, 2015 17:33:56 GMT -6
Checking the oil level you can do it either way, IF you do not screw it in the oil level should cover HALF the xxxx's IF you screw it in ALL the way the oil should cover all the xxxx's. Not sure if the 150cc's method of checking is the same as the 50cc's, but if so then that information is incorrect. With 750ml in the tank, the crosshatch on the dip stick should read full. screwed in it should read over full. |
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Post by jjoshua20213 on Jul 25, 2015 17:30:00 GMT -6
Thank you. Do you know about stroker cranks. Is it worth it or should I just go with a sturdy stock? |
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Post by jjoshua20213 on Jul 25, 2015 14:31:16 GMT -6
So I finally took the time to figured out how to change the crank....
I found that a 50mm piston can run the stock head(higher compression) at high rpm for extended periods of time(8k-10k) without blowing or severely wearing out rings when broken in properly and switching to 15w50 Mobil 1 full synthetic and maintaining oil quality.
With that being said the connecting rod bearing on the stock cranks simply won't last past 6 months (To be expected)
Never had a problem with the crank bearings just the connecting rod bearing.
What is the best most durable crank without having to further modify anything?
Willing to spend a little cash since I will never have to change it again.
Performance is my aim, but durability is my goal.
Also had anyone tried out these performance fans i've been seeing around?
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Post by jjoshua20213 on Jul 25, 2015 11:58:20 GMT -6
They don't have the same number because they are made by different companys, but are interchangable....as are these other brands: Spark plug cross reference Ngk has an ar7tc and a cr7hsa I think autolite and champion does too |
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Post by jjoshua20213 on Jul 21, 2015 12:06:10 GMT -6
Like a high compression head, domed piston.
If not do you know ways I can increase compression?
I'm not having a problem I just want to max out the 39mm piston to its limits before I put in a 50mm.
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Post by jjoshua20213 on Jul 21, 2015 7:37:51 GMT -6
I have those. Ive been trying to see if the cr7hix is better vs. the cr8hix. The bbk raises compression and heat by alot.
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Post by jjoshua20213 on Jul 21, 2015 7:35:35 GMT -6
Take the head off and rotate the engine to see if it makes the same noise. If it does its not the valves. If it don't then you can pin point the problem in the head area.
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Post by jjoshua20213 on Jul 20, 2015 10:58:25 GMT -6
it can be done ,,but the gains are marginal,,,better to set in the middle of the range and use indexing washers under the plug to make the gap orientation to the middle of the combustion chamber Yea, I figured the gains would be little. I plan on changing everything on the ignition system. (Thicker wires, better boot cap, ect.) My favorite performance cdi went out the other day and i'm sure it was stressed due to poor ignition components. Never had a problem on any other bike until I put it in this one. Also a super strong spark makes carb tuning easier as the engine responds quicker to adjustments. |
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Post by jjoshua20213 on Jul 20, 2015 10:49:22 GMT -6
please tell me that I'm reading this wrong and you're not actually planning on adjusting spark gap with it firing? You read it wrong |
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Post by jjoshua20213 on Jul 20, 2015 5:10:05 GMT -6
So I know the gap for a 139qmb is .023-.030 and some people say .035 works best
But with the plug removed and placed in the boot I can visually see spark.
My question is would I be able to adjust the gap and visually look for a bigger or better looking spark and adjust accordingly?
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