Clinician
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Post by carefulrider on Aug 7, 2015 9:29:06 GMT -6
I ride a 2014 SYM RV200 scoot, & I enjoy riding at night.
However, both the low & high beams on my scoot should be raised. Does anyone know how to do this? Please help!
I have asked in other forums, but so far, no luck.
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Clinician
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Post by carefulrider on May 27, 2014 13:58:53 GMT -6
Just reviving this thread, because it is relevant to the topic:
What torque to tighten the acorn nuts after I succeed in removing the broken exhaust bolt on my 2007 157QMJ GY6, LB150T-12, SUNL ADVENTURE 150cc?
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Clinician
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Post by carefulrider on May 16, 2014 6:09:53 GMT -6
Thanks for the suggested economical rpms.
As TwoWheeler said: simple to install & easy enough to wrap around the spark plug cable.
I bought the one I use on eBay. I expect that if you did an internet search, you shall find several sources.
I put it to use to adjust the idle rpm down to the suggested 1300-1500 rpm.
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Clinician
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Post by carefulrider on May 12, 2014 8:43:09 GMT -6
I have a 2008, Sunl, Adventure, LB150T-12; 157QMJ, with a 150 cc GY6 engine. The scoot is equipped with all stock parts. No modifications of any kind. I just attached a tachometer to the scoot, as this model didn't come with one.
Now I wonder what the most economical RPM is to operate the scoot.
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Clinician
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Post by carefulrider on May 5, 2014 9:52:34 GMT -6
Hi All:
I currently ride a 150cc, & would like a SYM JoyRide 200i EVO or SYM RV 200 EVO,
that is just a little faster, so that I don't come in the way of traffic.
Thanks in advance.
Just want to say, now, a year later, I sold the 150cc & bought a used RV200.
I have found that my riding position with feet on the floor board, causes my knees to be higher than my hips/bottom on the seat, causing quick discomfort on long rides. So I stretch the legs out so that the feet are at the 'angular' position on the front of the floor board.
The gps calculates 39 mph, when the speedometer indicates 45 mph.
Filling gasoline took some learning as I never knew if the tank was full or not. Once filled, the scoot yields 77 mpg, if that odometer registers actual distance covered, unlike the speedometer, that is incorrect. I am a modest rider with no jack-rabbit starts nor stopping on a dime. I like to ride on slower secondary & tertiary roads, so that probably contributes to better gasoline consumption. Newer belts & weights contribute to better mileage, which reduces as belt & weights wear.
Riding by myself, with camping gear, I keep the front tire inflated to 25 psi, & the rear to 33 psi.
The matte black finish does show dirt easily & quickly.
As others have said, this scooter can be ridden all day, non-stop; of course, fuel permitting.
Quality, as others have said, is indeed good.
Yes, it's pricey. You can buy four cheap 150cc Chinese scoots for the price of one new RV 200. Yikes! So it depends on if you want to work on your scooter regularly, or if you prefer riding a reliable vehicle.
Here, in upstate NY, those 'humps' across the road cause scooter & rider to take a beating. Is it just poor road construction design? Or something else? I have adjusted the rear suspension to the softest ride.
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Clinician
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Post by carefulrider on Apr 23, 2014 11:17:07 GMT -6
According to my information the original ENGINE CRANKSHAFT oil seal is 19.8*30*5. Yours might be different as it was changed. If the Oil seal is bad, then crankcase separation is required. A lot of work.
If the oil leak is coming from inside the drive cover, behind the variator, you have a crank seal leak which would be costly, in time, to fix.
I'd let those who know more than I do, confirm this, however, before taking any action. So wait for additional replies.
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Clinician
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Post by carefulrider on Apr 23, 2014 10:58:51 GMT -6
Yessir!
That's the one. This one lasted one year. Perhaps I am not installing it correctly. Any suggestions on a correct installation?
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Post by carefulrider on Apr 22, 2014 9:07:07 GMT -6
Hello all:
I have a 2008, Sunl, Adventure, LB150T-12; 157QMJ, with a 150 cc GY6 engine. The scoot is equipped with all stock parts. The rubber hose that looks like a ram's horn develops tears over time, owing to the tension caused by the bends needed to connect from the air filter housing to the carburetor.
Is there another filter that I could install that would eliminate the rubber hose, but permit me to keep ALL the other (associated) parts stock?
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Post by carefulrider on Jul 15, 2013 8:28:50 GMT -6
Always identify your scooter, to allow the folks on the forum to make a relevant diagnosis.
While awaiting posts to assist you, consider cleaning the jets of the carburetor, to help with the stalling.
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Post by carefulrider on Jul 15, 2013 8:20:19 GMT -6
Thanks to the folks on the forums, this is what I have learned from reading their posts:
You shall need to remove the belt cover again. Occasionally material from the 1st belt will wedge itself in the clutch in the back. Check & see if any strands have wrapped themselves in there. That would cause the clutch to malfunction. Black debris & dust must be cleaned out thoroughly before a new belt can be installed. Dbl check that both the variator pulley & rear clutch pulley are free from debris or pieces from the worn belt.
Check the rear clutch pulley for smooth operation. Take both of your hands & grasp the pulley. Make sure that the pulley can move freely when compressing the pulley with your fingers.
Then start the motor & let it idle. The belt should be riding on the bottom of the variator sheaves. If it is not, check that the roller weights are not stuck & that they are able to move freely up & down in their 'tracks'.
If the belt is deep in the clutch at idle then the variator is probably jammed.
In either case, use graphite as a dry lubricant. Just a HB pencil is excellent. Use a pencil & "color in" all the surfaces of the rollers, sliders & parts of the variator that are in contact with the rollers, etc.
Fit the rollers with any flat spots facing away from the rubbing surfaces.
Rev the motor a little to make sure that everything is working. With the motor on high revs, the belt should be riding on the top of the variator sheaves. Then, when you release the throttle, the belt should return to riding at the bottom of the variator sheaves.
Keep in mind that your riding habits affect the life of the belt. Typically belts can last from 2-8k mi with normal usage.
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Post by carefulrider on Jul 3, 2013 13:49:25 GMT -6
Thanks much. I see I shall need to disassemble the clutch assy & then use a specialized puller to remove it.
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Post by carefulrider on Jul 3, 2013 9:21:36 GMT -6
Thanks for the input.
I went to the local Honda shop to get the scooter New York state inspected (annual mandatory safety inspection), the day I posted & asked the mechanic about my experience with these nitrogen-charged shock absorbers, & he said I shouldn't alter the amount of nitrogen in the reservoirs.
For the presesnt there is no concurrence of views. Personally, I'm not convinced that the pressure in the reservoirs should not be altered.
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Post by carefulrider on Jul 2, 2013 9:36:42 GMT -6
With a view to softening the ride of my 2007 LB150T-12, SUNL ADVENTURE 150cc scoot, I just put on new nitrogen-filled shock absorbers. To my dismay, the ride is harder than the conventional absorbers that I just took off. The adjustment is all the way up to the top of the adjusting threads, so if I did any threaded adjustment, it would be "down" the threads, thereby compressing the springs. I don't think that would yield a softer ride.
I checked the pressure in the shock absorber cylinders: one is 26 psi & the second is 32 psi.
I have read that I can expect a rather soft ride with this type of shock absorber. What should I do to acheive this soft ride?
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Post by carefulrider on Jul 2, 2013 9:09:40 GMT -6
I have a gy6 157qmj 150cc scooter.
I have read that the CVT clutch needle bearing is prone to wear & with 10,900 miles on the odometer, I expect that the bearing has worn down some.
How can I remove the needle bearing? Thanks in advance.
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Post by carefulrider on Jun 17, 2013 7:03:13 GMT -6
It's been quite some time since I posted this. Thanks for the posts. I shall now probably go ahead & purchase a new pair. Ride safely!
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