Clinician
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Post by case on Jun 30, 2013 7:51:09 GMT -6
Sounds like ignition. Get a multi meter and test for current from your stator ......if you are getting current from your stator its the cdi not firing becuase of a faulty ground in your ignition.
Also, check all your green wires and make sure the connections or clean and tight, those are your ground wires. (sometimes water and grime will get in there and cause a faulty ground.
Im sure once you find spark it will fire, check the leads gling to your coil as well, they may be loose.
sounds like a loose faulty ground wire/ or ignition to me
goodluck man
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Post by case on Jun 30, 2013 7:39:38 GMT -6
Hi guys! I have this scooter, its a 2012 tao tao. The owner had " rebuilt" the top end with new head (he said) and piston. The guy said it had siezed up and he didnt know why....when I got it I tested the compression with the kicker and it seemed fine, so i checked for spark and decided to fire it for the hell of it. I fired it and it ran for 20 seconds made engine noise and seized up. the piston seemed locked.....I began to rmove the head and cylinder...the head popped off and the cylinder came free from the piston easily, the piston was not scored or streaked or damaged...I grabbed it and rotated the engine and it became "unstuck"....weird, it seemed like the bottom end was stuck for a second.....When I was removing the head I realized there were no bolts intalled holding the head to the cylinder...see pic 3.....I wonder if this was the problem? did he just froget to put in the head bolts and the thing was vibrating until it siezed? Pleasehelp me decide what to do next. there is a small score on the inside of the cylider wall now, should I sand it smooth? what grit? Should i put it back together and try it again with the head bolts attached or just buy a 80cc kit and be done? I am worried it is the bottom end, is that likely? I can grab the piston and rotate the engine byhand and everything seems/look smooth The guy said that he put on a new head and the one he gave me is the old one, but it is sqeaky clean new. I hope he just made a mistake when putting it back together....what are your thoughts guys!!!! Thanks. the pics      Also, when i got inside and looked at the valve lash, the intake valve was set at1/4 inch....and the exhaust lash was so tight i could not move it at all. what do these things tell me? thanks guys for all the help |
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Clinician
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Post by case on Jun 15, 2013 15:53:54 GMT -6
Thanks DW and the rest of you guys, I havent let the bike warm up more than 5min. I need to button it all up and do some future water protection. (tape) I plan to have the start on a button on handlebars, a cdi kill button hidden, a 12 bar, racing cdi and coil, drill the baffle, and pod the intake. I may add crash protection and or pegs as well and paint and bodywork. When I pulled the airbox it was all wet and grimy filter is old and clogged up, air intake hose is broken and taped, so i have some reworking to do as well. (rason for surging) anyway... After some tuning and some mods I hope to make it streetable/stuntable beach cruiser.
I will add pics as I get it modded...
CASE CLOSED
thanks again
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Post by case on Jun 15, 2013 10:57:04 GMT -6
Hi guys!! I am working on a friends 50cc gy6. It began having trouble after 3000 miles. It seems to have fuel delivery issues. it wont go over 20 mph. (seems to run fine on stand). and revs hard. under load, it bogs hard. Today we drain the gas and empty the carb bowlto test for bad gas. Then we will disconnect the electric choke to see if its stuck. We dont have a spare check valve, any tips on checking that would be cool... I cleaned the jets the other day, still runs bad. If you pinch the fuelline it will start way easier. Well thats alli have for now, any carb/fuel genuises please chime in thanks Case Attachments:
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Clinician
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Post by case on Jun 15, 2013 9:36:28 GMT -6
VROOOOOOOOOOM!!!!!!!! it fired !!!!!!! some notes. 1. the diode in the ignition needs to be hooked up and not grounding thru water or grime (see attached pic) 2. The cdi kill wire on a dc ignition (this model) cannot be cut or the engine will NOT fire. 3. There was a common ground loose from pin in connector. It runs and fires first time. I have having some "surge" when idling, it will idle up and down if you have any thoughts on that i appreciate it before i go googling Let me say thanks to evryone on here that helped. It is a great feeling when aweek of hard work results in the engine running!!! I hope i can give back a little with more experience !!!!!!!  |
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Post by case on Jun 15, 2013 8:06:31 GMT -6
There was also a green and yellow wire completely disconnected from the pin going into to harness as far as i can tell its the brake light wire.....if that wasnt connected the saftety switch wont work. more problems  |
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Clinician
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Post by case on Jun 15, 2013 7:20:16 GMT -6
The diode is now powering the ignition.
A coupleof questions today.
1. Can I cut the black and white wire to the cdi if it is in the 4 plug location? The black wire sends current so idk.
2. There are 4 wires that go to the killswitch and starter button......how do I arrange these so it will fire? yellow/red. and green ..goes to button and Brown and black wire went to killswitch......the green and y/r touching should send current to startter, but it only cranks over when i combine brown and black and touch them to y/r while green is just open....
going thru fuses like mad.
please help
googling now but cant figure it out brahs
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Post by case on Jun 15, 2013 7:11:30 GMT -6
You can unplug and plug in a different one to test, but if it has a diode inside the ignition and it has fouled out, it can be broken into and fixed .
good luck i hate electrical problems
lol
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Clinician
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Post by case on Jun 14, 2013 19:16:13 GMT -6
Here is the pic of the ignition diode (wrong term?) anyway, as it turns on the power it looks like it grounds the cdi. It is now my opnion this got wet causing spark to arc and kill the cdi I have cleaned it and dryed it, without all these circuits in the right place the engine wont deliver spark...i think. at least thats the way honda makes it, this looks like a clone of a cbr900rr ignition. more testing tomorrow, if i never get it running i did learn alot about electrics. thanks again/great forum Attachments:
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Post by case on Jun 14, 2013 18:46:35 GMT -6
I reattached that wire for testing purposes. The ignition was torn apart/ cleaned the copper diode thing that grounds everything together....if the diode isnt working properly it wont fire....ran into this along time ago on a cbr900...thing would not fire unless the copper diode was connected correctly..rigging that now, i think it may be the problem. The dci gets power from the black ignition wire. Can I still clip the b/w to the cdi to prevent the kill from stopping spark?
this thing had anti theft crap all the way down to the diode and fakie wire in the ignition
hmmmm it wont be long before they wire in a 100ohm resitor.
thanks guys.
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Post by case on Jun 14, 2013 14:44:02 GMT -6
Yes it seems dc but it runs with no battery and that is an indication that it is ac. I guess we will call it dc with ac benifits.
I have some numbers.
when cranking the coil hotwire reads 1.33
when the old coil is in and i crank/no reading from coil output
replace coil from 50cc and i get .09 reading
old coil back in, no readings....it is my feeling now that the 50cc coil is operational but does not have it inside to pump out the 1.5 it needs to fire.
sorry for being wishy washy but i think we can nail it down.
Is there a universal coil from napa i can use?
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Post by case on Jun 14, 2013 11:45:53 GMT -6
The kilswitch has to be " working" to supply power to the cdi.
This entire time i have been trying to fire it with the killswitch bypassed and not completing the circuit. I guess the killswitch went bad after the rain and i bypassed it at that point along time ago.
now i must go back and make it work to make the cdi get power.
gettting real close now, nothing may be wrong with any part..
back the drawing board
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Post by case on Jun 14, 2013 11:34:53 GMT -6
I found this on the net
Here is a standard ignition circuit for a chinese scooter. Note that the red wire from the stator to the CDI will not be on a DC fired system. The kill switch wire will instead be the positive power source from the igntion key switch.
So, i guess if my killswitch has been disabled, power to the cdi is disabled. my kill switch is disabled.
What doesnt make sense to me, is that it runs without a battery
i guess this 150 has a combination ac/dc system
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Post by case on Jun 14, 2013 9:25:47 GMT -6
I took some pics to help you guys see what im seeing. please review and post your thoughts.  stock? cdi and test coil from another gy6/its different what the heck? i have a 5 gallon gas can ready to douse this thing!!  |
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Post by case on Jun 14, 2013 8:56:29 GMT -6
Thanks man. I am really confused, as i cant figure this out. The replacement cdi's for this gy6 fit any chinese model 50cc to 150cc.
The web says that this italica model is AC fired but the black wire coming from the cdi says otherwise like you noted.
However, a dc system will not run without the battery and mine runs real well with no battery (when running) .....So, is it a combo ac/dc system? instead of a red wire from the stator I have a green one, this is not like most wiring diagrams for the gy6
im stumped.
If it will run without a battery it is AC right?
can i run a coil and cdi designed for GY6 150CC engine or this some kind of exception to the 150cc cdi coil rule?
I also noted that my coil looks different without 2 prongs
arrrg
I hope with persistence i can figure this out and with your help
thanks again
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