Clinician
Currently Offline
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
Joined: Sept 22, 2010 0:47:22 GMT -6
|
Post by catrell92 on Sept 6, 2011 1:27:19 GMT -6
. Na, thats slammd, since then i put chrome intake side grills on it
|
|
Clinician
Currently Offline
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
Joined: Sept 22, 2010 0:47:22 GMT -6
|
Post by catrell92 on Aug 15, 2011 19:10:23 GMT -6
The forks appear to be in good condition not bent or anything, the part I'm replacing is the black bracket attached with the stick right? Btw can you point mein the right direction for the bearings? Or do they come preinstalled if I purchased the stem
|
|
Clinician
Currently Offline
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
Joined: Sept 22, 2010 0:47:22 GMT -6
|
Post by catrell92 on Aug 15, 2011 8:52:54 GMT -6
I posted a thread earlier stating that i got in a head first accident, it bent my rim which i just fixed about an hour ago, but now my front wheel is rubbing really badly on the shroud with vents behind the front fender, my wheel took all the impact on the crash, so i was thinking maybe bent forks but then i noticed this, it looks as if the steering stem/ forks are loose, causing the front wheel to be cocked at an angle thus causing this really bad rubbing on the under shroud, is this broken or how do i tighten it, also is there anythingi should do while i have it taken apart, because when i hit big bumps my forks always make a smack noise which is rEally annoying, would fork oil fix this ? If so what kind of oil to get? Heres a pic of where the tires rubbing and that loose connection between the stem and the forks.
|
|
Clinician
Currently Offline
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
Joined: Sept 22, 2010 0:47:22 GMT -6
|
Post by catrell92 on Apr 17, 2011 1:13:46 GMT -6
dude i have the same scooter, im going to give you the "run down" what to do to this thing so it runs like a champ. i got mine basically brand new for $300. it had a number of problems and i was a noob when i first got it, believe me if you do this you will save yourself problems in the long run. replace vacuum fuel pump with a 3/8" fuel line/w manual on/off valve replace intake manifold ( the current manifold will crack) replace as many lights as you can with leds REMOVE the alarm asap (it can drain your battery randomly) be patient when you re-add new coolant, the bike has dual radiators so itll take a little bit before it fully 'burps" itself of air. heres how my storm looks
|
|
Clinician
Currently Offline
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
Joined: Sept 22, 2010 0:47:22 GMT -6
|
Post by catrell92 on Feb 13, 2011 21:22:29 GMT -6
by any chance do u have the CN250 motor ? i had that problem a while ago, i would sit on it, it wouldnt die but the idle got alot lower like it was straining, it stopped miraculously though, im only 175 lbs , if i were u i would check the intake valve, maybe it has a crack in it and when you sit on the bike, your weight widens thus creating a really lean condition, or maybe your pinching or kinking a fuel line or vac line. it was really bad when i used to ride my dad on the back of my bike lol (haha) i would have to keep revving the motor because when he hopped on the RPMs would go from like 1800 to 1200 and the bike would die if i stopped too hard, it ran good 10mph+, when he hopped off everything returned as normal.
|
|
Clinician
Currently Offline
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
Joined: Sept 22, 2010 0:47:22 GMT -6
|
Post by catrell92 on Feb 12, 2011 20:38:51 GMT -6
i have a storm 250 with the dual radiators in series with one another. the problem is, back in the summer i drilled holes in the lower door panel thing thats located in the step through area in order to get better cooling for that ridiculous cooling setup that they actually think helps ( lower radiator). i used the wrong length screw when re-installing the panel and i accidentally screwed through the radiator a bit. every time i revved the engine, coolant would spurt out of the hole on to the floormat, i used gasket sealant and that seemed to be durable and worked quite good. the lower radiator fan shorted from poor slodering, it was recently replaced by a stripped clipon 12v fan which i bought at CVS and modded in series with the scoots electrical fan/ temp wiring and mounted it by the centerstand mounting bracket, which btw is nicely and neatly mounted as of now. whenever i observe he scoot idling i notice smoke arising from the radiator or steam, the more i rev, the more steam is produced. I live in michigan and the weather is in the 30s, could this be because of the cold weather and hot radiator, i just want to be sure that the bike is getting the adequate amount of cooling, is there any tell tell signs that the motor is really overheating. the overflow doesnt overflow or anything, it stays at the same level and the fans cycle on and off like there supposed too. i was really thinking about ditching the lower radiator and just using the radiator mounted under the fairing, just seems like it would have less chance of an air pocket and a more simple setup, but would 1 small radiator be capable of cooling the motor ? im just being cautious lol btw there are no coolant leaks in the radiator, no wires or anything making contact with it, i checked =] motor runs smooth and no hiccups also, are 2 radiators really necessary ? =/ heres a pic of the scoot
|
|
Clinician
Currently Offline
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
Joined: Sept 22, 2010 0:47:22 GMT -6
|
Post by catrell92 on Feb 11, 2011 22:48:23 GMT -6
maybe its just me but do you hear alot of "valve clatter" or does the engine sound good to you ? thx for the response btw!
|
|
Clinician
Currently Offline
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
Joined: Sept 22, 2010 0:47:22 GMT -6
|
Post by catrell92 on Feb 11, 2011 21:11:06 GMT -6
the keihin carb on my CN250 motor came with a 110 main jet, the only thing ive done to the motor is replace the intake with a brand new 1, removed the emmisions airbox, and bought a new intake manifold and mounted a uni on the back of it. it is drivable and can rev high, but i do have to wait about 5mins for it to warm up until i can do WOT, it starts up pretty quick and idles strong, but i think i may have to go up in jet size just to make sure it isnt running lean, the last sparkplug did indicate it was on the lean side, it was kinda gray but faded. i just ordered a pack of jets with numerous sizes for $20 on ebay, my question is which size would you guys recommend i go up to first from a 110? its definitely drivable without hesitation but there is about a 3 second delay from 3/4 throttle to WOT. btw i upgrade to a iridium NGK and it idles ALOT smoother! heres a video, you can fast foward through it to see what im talking about, its like its not as "snappy" as it used to be.....btw, i fixed that high idle lol it was set too high but thats still the same response im getting with revving it up though
|
|
Clinician
Currently Offline
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
Joined: Sept 22, 2010 0:47:22 GMT -6
|
Post by catrell92 on Jan 4, 2011 23:10:54 GMT -6
Definately a design flaw, lmao I almost punched a hole through the wall because this thing wouldn't fit snugly on the carb of my 244cc honda clone engine. You should notice a loss in performance also because when its not connected the air/fuel ratio would be out of wack. I just mounted a uni filter straight on the carb for the time being and I would also like to replace mine because without one it makes your scoot sound like a dirt bike at WOT!
|
|
Clinician
Currently Offline
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
Joined: Sept 22, 2010 0:47:22 GMT -6
|
Post by catrell92 on Jan 4, 2011 23:02:39 GMT -6
After reading all the posts about the Storm and overheating problems, I can't help but wonder if the cause isn't the double radiator. Is there anyway to remove the doubles and put a single radiator of a size equal to the sum of both or even a little larger? Maybe something off a trashed scoot or even a cruiser? I believe that is the main case, andif it still overheats I'm removing the 2nd radiator.would 1 radiator in the front fairing be too long of a distance though?
|
|
Clinician
Currently Offline
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
Joined: Sept 22, 2010 0:47:22 GMT -6
|
Post by catrell92 on Jan 2, 2011 19:52:59 GMT -6
This bike has dual radiators btw, has to be the most annoying issue I have ever encountered because since day 1 if it hasn't been 1 thing its been another.for a while I had the overheating issue worked out around the time summer ended and it was probably because I removed the plastic, panel covering the lower radiator. The fans on this thing are real POS and someone suggested that I should get ATV fans because they have higher RPMs and are more durable. A couple of days ago I modded my bike because my lower radiator fan stopped working because of the poor wiring about 3months prior, I had ridden it with just the front radiator fan with no problems , I already tested the thermo switch and it worked like its supposed too. I bought a 12v clip on cooling fan ( car accessory) from rite aid and tore it all apart and clipped the wires so it could plug in my exisiting lower radiator plug and mounted it by drilling a 3/16th hole in the frame and adding a bolt and nut to hold it on, I wasn't intened for this kindof use ut IMO the RPMs are better than my original fan, everything worked out perfectly. 2 days before that I even purchased a new radiator cap with a higher PSI rating and flushed coolant, ran prestone coolant cleaner then redrained and filled with a 50/50 mix of prestone, to my knowledge I believe I burped it correctly because I replaced the thermostat after running withut one for 2-3 months because my initial thought was that it'll run cooler, I just replaced it just to be safe so everything would be balanced out in the cooling system. As I watched the bike idle s a test, the fans would cycle on and off alternately so I guess that's a good sign that I did everything correctly from the burping stand point. Ill have to re-open the radiator cap just to make sure its topped off though. Today I got that eeery annoying high pitched beep ( aka the overheating indicator) someone. Could idling have caused it to overheat, I. Left it on the centerstand for about an hour while I went in and out of the house and checked on it periodically, I even made air scoop mods so it could get better airflow, I haven't test driven it yet though, only have let it idle as I use this for my test runs. The reservoir tank did have a little more coolant after it overheated than before it did btw, usually if it overheated. The tank would start overflowing and leaking through the seal which I siliconed yesterday lol it definately withstood a lot longer though. The reason I was so motivated to doing his btw was because after testing this particular antifreeze I had bought from and the gas station and was currently using before this, I literally watched it turn into frozen ice chunks in my fluid drainage bucket, this almost killed my bros motor on his crown vic!! I had to dump that POS ASAP
|
|
Clinician
Currently Offline
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
Joined: Sept 22, 2010 0:47:22 GMT -6
|
Post by catrell92 on Oct 31, 2010 16:43:47 GMT -6
Ok let's help each other out here, seriously man I actually thought about removing all of that plumbing, seeing as I have the same exact chrome scoot as you. These bikes have been stting with old coolant for 4 years, which equals rust+corrosion. I was going to say to use some silicone adhesive but then it might not retain pressure that is needed. Those pipes specifically worried me because they are terribly corroded, I can even imagine insde the litle bends and crevices. I would go to my local home depot or lowes and purchase that copper plumbing pipe( straight with no curves) and I pretty much gurantee that nice little mod will fix your issue and infact improve your cooling system. Ok now its your turn lol. Today I accidently fell on my airbox as I was cleaning the carb, I'm intrested in maing just an open air filter, is there a certain way I have. To position it ? Help me out. And could you please snap a pic of your valve adjustment because my bike is really hard to start, and do you know where the ground wire from the battery actually connects to the frame ?
|
|
Clinician
Currently Offline
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
Joined: Sept 22, 2010 0:47:22 GMT -6
|
Post by catrell92 on Oct 26, 2010 7:08:42 GMT -6
I scoot on a storm 250, everything I know now, I have taught myself lol. I had the EXACT same problem as you, the first thing I would check is an intake leak, I had a really bad leak by my airboxand just sealedit up with silicone, you can usually tell if your bike jumps a lot or has "surges". I was really nervous about removing the crb because I'm new to scoots and didn't want to mess uo anything, I removed the float bow and evrything was good, jets weren't clogged, ect. But what I did notice when I was opening the throttle with the carb out is that this black plunger looking thing in the middle of the carb that had a silver rod going vertically throught it, was stuck. The rod had residue which I cleaned and played around a bit with till it when up and down smoothly. Haven't had a problem since. I'm guessng it has something to do with fuel regulation because my bike would bog a lot for like 5mins then if I kept pulling on the throttle it would run normal, here's a pic if your confused as to what I'm talking about.
|
|
Clinician
Currently Offline
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
Joined: Sept 22, 2010 0:47:22 GMT -6
|
Post by catrell92 on Oct 20, 2010 20:41:35 GMT -6
|
|
Clinician
Currently Offline
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
Joined: Sept 22, 2010 0:47:22 GMT -6
|
Post by catrell92 on Oct 20, 2010 11:50:11 GMT -6
Oak park, MI and since my auto choke was dead would it be a smart decision to order a manual choke conversion, I'm trying to eliminate all this computer controlled crap, and I did get the bike startd, 90% of the time I do, its just it takes A LOT longer than its supposed to, and do you have to be very skilled mechanically to perform an adjustment, I have pretty good hands, and I've watched my dad work on cars a lot so I know the basics and some, he said that I would need the torque specs in order to do it, and how long does it usually take to complete it?
|
|