|
|
Post by runningslow on Oct 16, 2010 17:18:44 GMT -6
That carb is exactly the same as the one on my Lifan. I think it is a Keihin copy. On thing, check the nipple on the de-accelerator of the right side of the carb. Mine was not drilled out!!! It takes a 1/64 drill or finer drill... It made a difference in the way the bike runs with it opened up.... Hmm... care to elaborate?  |
|
|
|
Post by runningslow on Oct 15, 2010 13:28:04 GMT -6
I think that's a 189cc, so you actually got an upgrade! I think you're right that it's actually is a 189cc, but I want to find a way to verify that without tearing it apart. I'll probably stick something down the sparkplug hole and measure the difference between TDC and BDC. Now, can someone help me identify this carb? You can see in the pictures that its a Keihin CVK carb. Under the Keihin logo, there is a "K T". The inner diameter of the manifold side is 26mm. I've looked for Keihin CVK carbs, but I haven't found any that match it. |
|
|
|
Post by runningslow on Oct 15, 2010 12:46:49 GMT -6
I haven't had any electrical issues since the episode last week, but I've also been keeping the scoot on the Battery Tender. Kicker starter is working, so I'm not too concerned about how reliable that battery is. I've removed the kick start lever again, but this time its staying under the seat with the wrench to mount it back up in a pinch. I think its time I piece together a dedicated tool kit to keep on my scoot.
Rear brakes. When I went to Autozone looking to replace the cut hoses, I got a "deer-in-the-headlights" look from the guy at the counter. He suggested that I should try a hydraulic hose shop. I went to a hydraulic hose shop and they there said he could easily make me new hoses, but that the brake fluid would eat through them. Sooo... I order a new steel braided rear brake hose, which I hope to get today or tomorrow. I'm happy, because the new hose will replace the 3 piece line that I had before: 2 flexible hoses and a steel hardline in the middle. I'm going to replace the fluid in the front brakes while I'm working on the rear. They're a little squishy, I'll probably need some new pads up front soon.
I went over to Sears during my lunch and bought a feeler gauge set. First thing on the agenda for tomorrow is setting the valves.
|
|
|
|
Final Gears
by: runningslow - Oct 15, 2010 12:35:56 GMT -6
Post by runningslow on Oct 15, 2010 12:35:56 GMT -6
runningslow, I bet you have really heavy weights in there which is limiting your rpms. Roller Weights: For every 1 Gram Up Or Down from what you have on there your RPMS will change by 500-600 rpms. Slider Weights: For every 1 Gram Up Or Down from what you have on there your RPMS will change from 200-350 rpms. When you get a chance take your weights out and weigh them. You can buy a digital gram scale for around $7.00 bucks at a harbor freight store. Or you can take your weights to a store and weigh them there. Alleyoop I think I'm going to try and weigh them tomorrow. The last time I weighed some, I just went down to the post office, got the weight in oz. and converted to grams. I weighed the whole set, then a couple individual weights to compare. I think I've got some 10s and 12s in a box somewhere, plus what's in the scoot now. I should have a good variety to mix and match. I think once I've nailed down a good weight I'll order some sliders to match (probably when I order the 842 belt). |
|
|
|
Final Gears
by: runningslow - Oct 15, 2010 12:12:09 GMT -6
Post by runningslow on Oct 15, 2010 12:12:09 GMT -6
Heh, time to hit the gym! Working on it! I'm a few weeks into P90 right now. When I complete that (or I get bored with it), I'm probably going to start P90X. I'm in the worst shape of my life right now.  |
|
|
|
Final Gears
by: runningslow - Oct 15, 2010 7:12:50 GMT -6
Post by runningslow on Oct 15, 2010 7:12:50 GMT -6
Gentlemen. I know there will be some experimentation, trial & error. Experimenting with gears will be the last thing I do.
For anyone who isn't aware and been reading my Matrix: Rebuilding thread, the scooter in question has a 161QML motor, which is at least 169cc. However, a 161QMK is 169cc. The only reference to a 161QML I can find on google is a 189cc trike... one of these days I'll determine the stroke and find out for sure.
Unless my Tach is off, I'm not getting over 6500 rpm. Period. Its like I'm hitting a limiter, but I don't think it is. It may creep up to about 6750, but I haven't been able to make it hit 7000. That's telling me I need to change weights.
Ally, while its not a "performance" variator (to my knowledge), the factory variator in my new motor is already has a 115mm OD, which is the same as the Dr. Pulley and Prodigy variators. I haven't done the Sharpie test to see how high its climbing, but with only an 835 belt, I don't think its reaching the top. I don't know what my stock weights are, but I do have some others to try. I may mess around with those this weekend.
Of course, I bet my top speed would improve if I lost about 40 lbs, too. (<---Which is something I'm going to try and do in the coming months.)
|
|
|
|
Post by runningslow on Oct 14, 2010 6:28:56 GMT -6
Good point there MC. One of the instructors in my MSF class just had to do a couple front wheelies on his rocket to impress people. Really? I think all the instructors at my MSF were off duty police officers. I can't picture any of them demonstrating that. ;D Not to mention, we were required to ride their bikes and I don't think any of the bikes at the MSF facilty were capable of stunting.  |
|
|
|
Final Gears
by: runningslow - Oct 14, 2010 6:23:17 GMT -6
Post by runningslow on Oct 14, 2010 6:23:17 GMT -6
runningslow, What a coincidence, I just ordered a set myself I got the 16/37 set, my Ice Bear Trike has 13/40 gears and I know one other Trike owner that just put in 15/38 and gained around 8mph over the 13/40 gears. I want to be able to cruise at 55 with low RPMS and still have something left over. Alleyoop Alleyoop, please, let me know how it goes and what it takes to change them out! Mine won't be going into a trike, but the outcome should be similar. My goal is to hit a true 60-65, but cruise comfortably at 55. Right now, I'm able to max out around 55-57 @ about 6500rpms. I think with a longer belt and a roller change I should be able to squeeze out a few more mph. So, if a gear change could net me about 5mph, I'd be a happy camper! |
|
|
|
Final Gears
by: runningslow - Oct 13, 2010 14:18:54 GMT -6
Post by runningslow on Oct 13, 2010 14:18:54 GMT -6
Anyone have any experience changing the final gears?  www.partsforscooters.com/Gear_set_gy6I'm thinking about it to bump up the cruising speed up a bit and I don't really care too much about loosing at the bottom end. I know I have plenty of other things to fiddle with first, like a longer belt and changing rollers/sliders, but I think I'll ultimately end up doing this, too. |
|
|
|
Post by runningslow on Oct 13, 2010 5:42:47 GMT -6
They're working on taking themselves out of the gene pool. My thoughts exactly... natural selection. |
|
|
|
Post by runningslow on Oct 12, 2010 8:25:21 GMT -6
QUESTION: Has anyone ever had an issue with their center stand interfering with the kick start lever? When I had the center stand up, it would rub against the kick start, then I'd have to force the stand down past the kick start. Because of that, I have a dent in my nice new chrome cover and I've had to remove the kick start lever. Well, I've now figured out why I was having this problem. The rubber bumper and the bracket that held it is missing.... so, the center stand is coming up higher than it should and in turn getting in the way of the kick starter. Must have lost that thing on the road somewhere and not realized it.  |
|
|
|
Post by runningslow on Oct 12, 2010 6:22:41 GMT -6
I really like the LED bulb switch out on the tail lights. If you do much city driving and your still running the OEM bulbs, you probably aren't charging the battery much in town or under 30mph anyway. Since the tail light comes one when you crank her up, any less juice being used then is a good thing too! I've not seen an LED head lamp set up that has me hooked yet, but d instrument cluster lights, can usually be done with just a bulb switch as well. Every little bit helps as marginal as the 50's charging systems seem to run.  Thanks for the input! The bike already has an LED taillight, but I could probably switch the indicators to LEDs. This bike isn't a 50cc, its a 169cc with an 11 pole stator, so my charging system is a little less marginal than most. Most of my riding is in the 45-55mph range for some longer distances of 15-30 miles at a time. The bike has about 9000 miles on it (only about 350 on the new motor) and the OEM bulbs were never an issue. Bike was on the battery tender all night, and I found it with a nice green light this morning. I haven't checked the voltage, yet, because I want to wait a few hours to see how it reads. Maybe I should have gotten a baseline reading, but too late for that. I didn't bother with the electric start this morning and just used the kick start. Chances are I'm just looking at a questionable battery at the moment. Its less than a year old, but it has sat for 9 months, without being used. I would periodically put in on the battery tender to try and keep it maintained, but never thought to check the fluid levels in it. |
|
|
|
Post by runningslow on Oct 11, 2010 19:49:48 GMT -6
Thanks again for the input! I've topped off the battery with distilled water. After popping the caps off, it was virtually dry. Soooo... we'll see. Its on the battery tender now, so we'll see what happens.
I'll probably start shopping around for a good AGM battery, just in case.
|
|
|
|
Post by runningslow on Oct 11, 2010 18:06:27 GMT -6
Thanks for the input, everyone.
That's what I thought. I didn't really think it was turn signal, but I was desperate for an explanation.
I wouldn't be surprised if the battery was bad, in fact, it looks like that may be the case. Its not the original chinese battery, in fact, I've never had a chinese battery. My original battery was a Yuasa and the current one I got from Autozone.
After my hour long ride home from work, I put my multimeter on the battery. Idling, it read 11.5v and did not go up at all while revving. So, obviously something is wrong. Thoughts?
Battery is on my battery tender, now, and the scoot will easily kick start.
|
|
|
|
Post by runningslow on Oct 11, 2010 11:12:03 GMT -6
Augh!
Long story short.... went out for lunch, and bike would not start to get me back to the office.... giving the tell tale signs of a low battery. The only thing seemingly out of place was I had forgotten to cancel the turn signal, so it started to flash when I turned the key on.
A coworker came and we easily jump started the scoot. I got back to the office with no problems, but it looks like I'll have to get another jump to go home.
My question... would leaving a turn signal on (with the bike completely off), still have put a strain on the battery? I was only in the restaurant for about 30 minutes. Tops.
Like a fool, I didn't have any tools on the bike and I've removed the kick-start lever (It was knocking against the center stand.)
|
|
